They should still work. They might just need to be relearned to the truck. Take it to a tire shop, have them scan all the sensors to make sure one didn't get broken in the process of moving them, and have them relearn them to the truck.
I've had chargers in the past where the flat ground tabs on the sides of the plug will pop out from the back end of the plug and act like a barb, making it really difficult to remove. The safest way to remove it would be to remove the console panel that holds the outlet and work it out from the...
Roke beat me to it, take it to a different dealership. Personally, I would have as soon as they mentioned wanting to charge for the diag on a truck still well under warranty.
I'm getting 21-22 in a bone stock SR5 RWD. Weekdays, my commute to and from work is about 85%/15% highway/city. Weekend errands are a good mix of both.
Its that time of year where the weather can't decide if it's still winter or not. Haven't needed a jacket in the afternoons/evenings the last few days but it looks like it's gonna dip again by the end of the week. I also work in Boulder City, about half hour southeast of Vegas, kinda in the...
That, and if the battery is dead in the fob, you can still start the vehicle by pressing the start button with the fob itself usually. Or some vehicles have a place in like the center console to place the fob if it's dead. Definitely not ideal, but still handy information to know.
It's a key-card. If you have it on you, you can unlock the truck by touching the door handles and it will let you start the truck. Think of it as a key fob without buttons. I heard there are ways to lock the doors by touching the handles too, but I haven't figured that one out yet
This. I would suggest first trying a different fob and see if that works. The fob you're using sounds like the battery is dying/dead. Take it to the dealership and have them swap the battery out in the fob.
Yeah, it took me a couple weeks to figure that one out, too. They don't exactly advertise that as a function, probably because they want you to use that app that you eventually will have to pay for.
The first number in the tire size is the width of the tread in millimeters. You can convert that to inches and the bead should be around the same size, maybe about an inch or so narrower narrower. For example, on a 275/70R17 tire, the width of the tread is going to be 275mm, which is about...
This. As someone who has mounted probably hundreds of tires, trying to mount stock size tires on wider aftermarket rims is a pain in the ass and makes your mechanic just hate you. lol. I came to this thread to see if I could help, but this is a pretty well written explanation
Mine makes that sound here and there too. I'm fairly sure it's the engine switching back and forth from direct injection and port injection. I've been meaning to hook my scan tool up so I can watch the live data and confirm it.
If you take the cover off the fuse boxes (I believe there are two in the engine bay), they usually have a diagram on the underside of the cover. Low beams are usually marked HL-LO or something along those lines