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So were your crash pads still on the truck behind the front wheels? Would be good to know for those of us considering taking them off for bigger tires.

And weight which does really matter, but don’t blow the extra money unless it’s something really important to you. You can totally stick with your stock wheels.

Perfect poke - nothing crazy - but my fenders and wheel geometry are slightly different on the TH so it may be more poke on your truck

I run AT4W in SL and love the look and performance. They also run wide which I love. I will add that for SLs the sidewalls are thick as hell and super tough. In fact I could not tell much difference from the E loads when I looked at them at DT.

This is a very heavy 3 ply tire so it may just be par for the course in terms of driving characteristics - I would use the online tools available to determine PSI. I believe the correct pressure would be 36 or 37 psi if I recall correctly but I can look it up later. Higher PSI = rougher ride...

By the way this is a 33” tire — either 33.2” or 33.4”

What about hybrid power bump

Why are my spec ranges wildly different? I want to take my truck to a custom shop but I cannot tell them the precise spec ranges since every person who posts is posting something different. Does each trim / year have its own spec range ?

So does this show the 24 or 25

I’m looking on the website - where did you find the wheel weights?

Fuck yeah

What rims are that light? RRW? 78 pounds combined is really good. I’m only slightly under that at 75 or so. I’d say I am not far off what you’re getting in MPG. Maybe slightly better around town, like 18 or so. I would not go to C load just for a couple miles a gallon. I’d only do it for...

I have SCS Blaze 10 wheels that are only 22lb and standard load Falken 285/70/17s that are 53 pounds

I’m a huge fan of SunTek and had it on my Pro and now on my TH — but remember that the skill of the application is as important as the quality of the film — I cannot overstate this fact — find a true pro and don’t go cheap

Maybe so

So odd.. my dealer shows caster needs to be 2.8+… yours shows a much lower range and the way you had it initially would have passed spec according to my readout from the dealer ..see below … is it different for different trims?

Why push caster even further out of spec

Because of camber or thrust? From what I understand you can’t change thrust.

Camber ?

Lovely.