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There is no way you could see my rear seats to know their condition. Ha

I didn’t spray for 3 days to show what mine is like.

Mine gets terrible from time to time. Driver rear door much worse than others, driver door no.2, hardly an issue with the other 2. I keep dry lube in aerosol with me always, I work in very dusty environment, no grease or oil on anything. (Tailgate latch is worse than the Gen 2 and Gen 3)...

You say -stay away from collar lift, and don’t upgrade struts/spring…. What are the better options then?

thanks for this tip. A little handier than stopping the truck killing the engine a few seconds then restarting. it’s usually a minor inconvenience, but once or twice I need google maps via CarPlay and listening to a webinar, stop, get gas, get back in and no CarPlay and can’t reconnect...

Hope it’s just a tad of residual adhesive… keep us posted. I do find it interesting that some folks want to buy TRD stickers to put on non-TRD trucks, and some folks wanting to take the stickers off the TRD trucks. not dissing, just an observation. I like the decals, but the hardware...

With the seat back leaned forward they are very tight… lean the seat back to the rear and they loosen to the point you can unhook them with your pinky finger.

DJI makes a 65watt 12volt charger that I’ve used for several yrs. I wired in a cigarette socket w/ 20 amp fused that’s always hot so I can charge while I’m in the field, whether the truck is cranked or not. That is an option, inverter or not.

I like the ride better than my ‘22 TRD OR also… except when I hit hard bumps or just dips… “CLUNK” that you feel in the steering wheel - feels like worn out steering rack bushings.

I discovered this. you are correct. I did find this out…

And re-reading my original post, I sort of blended the GST frustration with a dealer gripe that I flat out missed until I got home... unrelated, except in the frustration sense.

I have about concluded that myself, with no schematic to look at. A tad more complicated.

Yeah, I don't think some folks get what the discussion is about. I think you do.

Well, I do not feel like any of this is on point to be honest. I needed a truck for business, got in a bit of a tight, searched dealers within 150 miles of my house, found one that most closely matched my needs, bought it, as in wrote them a check, left in it, and haven't had any remorse...

That's the beauty of clipping a single wire (and inserting a switch). The computer doesn't know you opened your door. My job is unusual in that I might stop and get out of my truck 50-60 times a day, so if I close my door each time I get out, that's 100-120 door opening and closings per day...

True enough if we were discussing a dealer. Obviously, some people understand the issue better than others from reading the posts above. A monopolistic 5-state distributor is not the same as a dealer. If a town has a crooked mayor, sure you can move to another town. But that doesn't mean the...

says the man from Idaho. all dealers in the midsouth can only buy from Gulf States Toyota, the only distributor for the midsouth. So yes, we can go 3 states away, but not as simple as “find another dealer”. Every dealer in 7 states is the same. This is the right side of the sticker that didn’t...

Yeah, when in "Auto" mode, A/C turns on or off depending on needs, unless you want to force it to stay on, then you press A/C button to stay on regardless.

Why? you ask, would someone want to bypass the door switch? Older Tacoma versions with key - Turn off engine, but leave in Acc position, open the door, get out, radio keeps playing, and no annoying Beep Beep Beep (when door switch is de-activated). Older Tacoma versions with keyless - Stop...

Does anyone know where the driver's door switch is located? I've always tapped into the door switch, and bypassed with a toggle switch inside the B-pillar trim, which has been a quick & easy fix. All quick glances haven't revealed to me where the switch is located.