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Not that I am aware of. Hopefully someone will one day successfully order the parts.

So the parts store cancelled my order saying the parts were on hold indefinitely. So I never got them to attempt the install. I am still looking for options.Maybe one day Toyota will figure out their Parts inventory issues.

I wouldn’t expect them to change their tone. If you really want the power steps I would just buy them and you will see for yourself. Install is straight forward and they are worth every penny.

interesting... I did not have any install issues with clearance on either side. I am mechanically inclined, but I did not have to do anything special, the motors and boards bolted right up. The body mounting points and frame seem the same across all Tacomas from my experience.

I did not have to modify the boards or wiring in ANY way to install them. The reason they are likely saying that is because the 12V source is in an entirely different location compared to the non-hybrid model. And they probably do not want to take on liability for customers running power...

I used a set of wires off Amazon. Some random brand but the quality was good and it had good reviews. I also bought the crimp on connectors off amazon. It only required around 21 feet or so

Yes it is switched power from the ignition. And for the compressor line to have power the parking brake also has to be activated.

Yes. According to toyota wiring diagrams This is the wiring used to feed the stock compressor (50amp). And it is there no matter the trim as long as you have the bed power accessory port. It just splits off and powers the usb and 12v ports. If you remove this part (which I did) you can tap...

Same. Probably design over site for us tall people with long legs. I’m just learning to get used to it.

I used what came with the kit. And I used Rough country’s winch as well.

Installed the ARB twin air compressor in the bed at the same location the OEM one mounts. Created a custom solution for the switch and Air chuck. So far this has been a welcome addition. And the Twin ARB really puts our air.

I have ordered the parts listed above. I am waiting to see if and when they arrive. More to come... I will make a post detailing the swap once I have the parts

Looks sick! I love those chunky wires!

I still use the oem front hook points upgraded to the NYTOP version. It works to get the job done

So the black clips are hard to see in any of the videos. Like they show in the one you linked, brute force will work. But if you look closely you will see a black plastic clip that "clamps" onto the painted plastic of the front bumper. There are three of them all lined up in a row along that...

You’re still attached at the fender. There is a black plastic clip that runs along the body panel where the bumper meets the fender. You’ll see it behind where the fender flare mounts. Most of the videos I’ve seen on YouTube show how to release this clip. It is a little bit complicated, you have...

You’re thinking correctly. And I do believe I had to extend that wire. But only by a few feet.

They reached the battery just fine since the interrupter mounted next to it (6inches or so). But I did have plenty of extra 2g wire laying around, since you have to run the leads up to the winch. I bought 25ft of red and black each.

I do not unfortunately. And it is buried under the rear seat and under my kids car seat, so I likely wont be going under there anytime soon unless needed. So Im sorry. What you posted is not the interrupter. That is some OEM part related to the brakes under the hood. The interrupt kit fit...

Super easy to remove. There are 8 or so 10mm bolts that are installed along the inside perimeter of the flair. Remove all of these screws, and just PULL on the fender flair straight out and away from the fender. It will pop off nicer and easily. There are 10 or so plastic clips that hold it onto...