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- Damien
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- Feb 22, 2025
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- South Carolina
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- 2024 Tacoma TRD Sport
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*Disclaimer – I will not be doing a detailed step by step so if you lack appropriate automotive maintenance experience proceed with caution.
This is my write-up of a transmission pan drop and an (almost) complete fluid change on a 24’ TRD Sport. I’m doing this at 25,000 miles. My rationale for this seemingly early service is for a couple reasons.
It has been reported in the 4G forums and other places that the first shift from 1st to 2nd on cold starts is a little rough. I can report that the change from WS to Amsoil ATF has stopped that. YMMV
Tools Required:
6 mm hex socket along with standard 6mm hex wrench
24mm socket
10 mm socket
¼” extension helps
in-lbs torque wrench helps
Break Cleaner
Parts Required:
Transmission filter; part # 35330-04020
Transmission pan gasket; part # 35168-60050
Transmission fill plug gasket; part # 90430-12008
Transmission fluid; at least 3.5 gallons (at least 14 quarts)
Procedure:
Get your transmission warmed up but not too hot to where the fluid is going to burn the hell out of you.
Use a 24 mm socket to remove the fill plug first. Use a 6 mm hex socket to remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain until is trickling from the internal “standpipe”. Once it’s trickling use a standard 6 mm Allen wrench to remove the standpipe. You will most likely get filthy doing this job, FYI. This will drain most of the fluid from the pan. Photo Cred 559Taco
Remove the 10 mm bolts surrounding the pan. ¼” rachet is all you’ll need. The bolts are not tight. If you live in the north with salt, you may want to spray the top of the bolts a few days beforehand with PB blaster and let them soak. Most of the bolts are not captive so you can spray the top threads and let it soak down in. Remember that these are steel bolts in an aluminum trans housing so BE DILIGENT and ensure not to use too much force if bolts are being stubborn. I used to live in PA so I know how bad it can get. This truck has only seen the south and no ocean water so working on it is very forgiving.
Be warned that the pan separated from the housing VERY EASILY so don’t make my mistake and let it fall into my catch pan and throw a quart or two of fluid all over the driveway. Shout out to my lovely girlfriend that sopped up the fluid as I was completing the job.
Once the pan is off, the filter can be removed by taking out (3) 10 mm bolts. Pull the filter out of the valve body. Note that the new filter does not come with an O ring that’s required to seal the filter to the valve body. I reused mine, and don’t know the part number. Due to it being low pressure, I’m sure reusing it even in high milage situations is not a problem. I don’t know the torque spec for the filter bolts. I made them wrist tight with just a little more of a turn with a rachet. Don’t overtighten.
Do your pan cleaning and remove the old gasket as it fits to the pan with built in grooves. I used paper towels to clean the magnets and the very small amount of residual metal mud in pan itself. I followed this with brake cleaner to remove fibers left by the paper towels. Also use break cleaner and a rag on the gasket face of the trans housing itself. I left all surfaces related to the gasket install clean and dry. Once your pan and magnets are clean, install the new gasket to the pan.
Install the pan back on the housing and install all the bolts to finger tight. I used a bit of anti-seize on all of them because of the aforementioned aluminum-steel relationship. Once finger tight, starting at the middle of the pan in a star patten I used an in-lbs torque wrench to tighten the bolts. I started at 20 in-lbs, then 40, the 60 going in a star pattern each time. I could not find a torque spec but considering I’ve had no leaks and the bolts weren’t tight to begin with, I think 60 in-lbs is reasonable. Adding anti-seize also increases the torque a bit too, so be careful if you choose to go that route. Anyone chime in if they know the spec.
Make sure to open the thermostat at this point by pushing the plunger in with a screw driver and sticking a 1.5 mm pin into the side hole to keep it open. I used a 1.5 mm allen wrench. This allows the whole fluid system to circulate freely.
I drained a little more than 6 quarts after everything was all said and done. Using a hand pump I added about 7 quarts then started the truck and ran through all the gears for a 5 mins or so to get things circulating. I checked the fluid level at this point using the notes from 559Taco https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/threads/4th-gen-tacoma-transmission-fluid-change-diy.14266/
After letting the fluid circulate for a while I did another drain of the pan (didn’t remove it) and refilled with the final 7 quarts of the fluid I had and let that circulate for a bit.
To check the fluid level properly you need to enter “Fluid Temperature Detection Mode” in order to ensure the fluid is at the right temp range to set the level.
After you set the level, use a new washer on the drain plug and reinstall the fill plug. The fill plug has its own built in o ring. Honestly, a new washer isn’t required but I bought them so I did. They’re just an aluminum washer like an engine oil plug washer.
Remove your pin from the thermostat.
Clean Up
Drive your Taco
I was originally planning on breaking one of the cooler lines and doing a “flush” after the pan was cleaned and refilled but after I realized how much fluid is drained by just dropping the pan and/or draining it, I figured letting it circulate and doing another drain and fill would be appropriate. Do what your heart desires. The trans pan is reported to hold 6.3 quarts, the value body 0.6 quarts, and the torque converter 4.2 quarts for a rough total of 11.1 quarts. Two drain and fills of 7 quarts each, then bleeding off to appropriate level come out to ≈87% new fluid from fractional dilution calculation, which is good enough for me.
As for my observations, the felt in the filter (no screen from what I observed) was a little grey compared to the new filter where the felt was a tan color. The pan was by no means filthy. Just a little mud steak or two on the metal. All the magnets were covered in a thin layer, but for all intents and purposes, things were pretty clean. The old fluid itself wasn't bad. It didn't look "new", but it was still red and in a reasonable condition. The was a noticeable difference in color and texture from the old WS and the new Amsoil. But at least now I know I don’t have anything nasty in the pan from the TSB crap and my trans is broken in with a clean pan, new filter, and fresh Amsoil ATF.
I plan on having this truck for a while and I most likely will never drop the pan again. I’ll probably just do two drain and fills every 75,000 miles or so. I mostly daily drive the truck for work but I do haul/tow periodically.
I hope this can be helpful to others in some way. Everyone has their own take on how a job is to be done, and this was mine. Happy driving.
This is my write-up of a transmission pan drop and an (almost) complete fluid change on a 24’ TRD Sport. I’m doing this at 25,000 miles. My rationale for this seemingly early service is for a couple reasons.
- My VIN falls under the transmission TSB of early builds as mine was manufactured in April of 24’. I wanted to check the pan for any concerning material.
- I wanted to change my fluid from the OEM WS fluid to Amsoil Signature Series Fuel-Efficient 100% Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid (This is the direct OEM replacement fluid per Amsoil). I know diverting from the WS is a controversial topic and endless debate has been had, but I live in a very hot environment (deep south) and I want a very high-quality fluid that has a long life. This was my decision and I’m sticking to it.
- I figure at this point my trans is completely broken in, so I might as well service it.
It has been reported in the 4G forums and other places that the first shift from 1st to 2nd on cold starts is a little rough. I can report that the change from WS to Amsoil ATF has stopped that. YMMV
Tools Required:
6 mm hex socket along with standard 6mm hex wrench
24mm socket
10 mm socket
¼” extension helps
in-lbs torque wrench helps
Break Cleaner
Parts Required:
Transmission filter; part # 35330-04020
Transmission pan gasket; part # 35168-60050
Transmission fill plug gasket; part # 90430-12008
Transmission fluid; at least 3.5 gallons (at least 14 quarts)
Procedure:
Get your transmission warmed up but not too hot to where the fluid is going to burn the hell out of you.
Use a 24 mm socket to remove the fill plug first. Use a 6 mm hex socket to remove the drain plug and allow the fluid to drain until is trickling from the internal “standpipe”. Once it’s trickling use a standard 6 mm Allen wrench to remove the standpipe. You will most likely get filthy doing this job, FYI. This will drain most of the fluid from the pan. Photo Cred 559Taco
Remove the 10 mm bolts surrounding the pan. ¼” rachet is all you’ll need. The bolts are not tight. If you live in the north with salt, you may want to spray the top of the bolts a few days beforehand with PB blaster and let them soak. Most of the bolts are not captive so you can spray the top threads and let it soak down in. Remember that these are steel bolts in an aluminum trans housing so BE DILIGENT and ensure not to use too much force if bolts are being stubborn. I used to live in PA so I know how bad it can get. This truck has only seen the south and no ocean water so working on it is very forgiving.
Be warned that the pan separated from the housing VERY EASILY so don’t make my mistake and let it fall into my catch pan and throw a quart or two of fluid all over the driveway. Shout out to my lovely girlfriend that sopped up the fluid as I was completing the job.
Once the pan is off, the filter can be removed by taking out (3) 10 mm bolts. Pull the filter out of the valve body. Note that the new filter does not come with an O ring that’s required to seal the filter to the valve body. I reused mine, and don’t know the part number. Due to it being low pressure, I’m sure reusing it even in high milage situations is not a problem. I don’t know the torque spec for the filter bolts. I made them wrist tight with just a little more of a turn with a rachet. Don’t overtighten.
Do your pan cleaning and remove the old gasket as it fits to the pan with built in grooves. I used paper towels to clean the magnets and the very small amount of residual metal mud in pan itself. I followed this with brake cleaner to remove fibers left by the paper towels. Also use break cleaner and a rag on the gasket face of the trans housing itself. I left all surfaces related to the gasket install clean and dry. Once your pan and magnets are clean, install the new gasket to the pan.
Install the pan back on the housing and install all the bolts to finger tight. I used a bit of anti-seize on all of them because of the aforementioned aluminum-steel relationship. Once finger tight, starting at the middle of the pan in a star patten I used an in-lbs torque wrench to tighten the bolts. I started at 20 in-lbs, then 40, the 60 going in a star pattern each time. I could not find a torque spec but considering I’ve had no leaks and the bolts weren’t tight to begin with, I think 60 in-lbs is reasonable. Adding anti-seize also increases the torque a bit too, so be careful if you choose to go that route. Anyone chime in if they know the spec.
Make sure to open the thermostat at this point by pushing the plunger in with a screw driver and sticking a 1.5 mm pin into the side hole to keep it open. I used a 1.5 mm allen wrench. This allows the whole fluid system to circulate freely.
I drained a little more than 6 quarts after everything was all said and done. Using a hand pump I added about 7 quarts then started the truck and ran through all the gears for a 5 mins or so to get things circulating. I checked the fluid level at this point using the notes from 559Taco https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/threads/4th-gen-tacoma-transmission-fluid-change-diy.14266/
After letting the fluid circulate for a while I did another drain of the pan (didn’t remove it) and refilled with the final 7 quarts of the fluid I had and let that circulate for a bit.
To check the fluid level properly you need to enter “Fluid Temperature Detection Mode” in order to ensure the fluid is at the right temp range to set the level.
After you set the level, use a new washer on the drain plug and reinstall the fill plug. The fill plug has its own built in o ring. Honestly, a new washer isn’t required but I bought them so I did. They’re just an aluminum washer like an engine oil plug washer.
Remove your pin from the thermostat.
Clean Up
Drive your Taco
I was originally planning on breaking one of the cooler lines and doing a “flush” after the pan was cleaned and refilled but after I realized how much fluid is drained by just dropping the pan and/or draining it, I figured letting it circulate and doing another drain and fill would be appropriate. Do what your heart desires. The trans pan is reported to hold 6.3 quarts, the value body 0.6 quarts, and the torque converter 4.2 quarts for a rough total of 11.1 quarts. Two drain and fills of 7 quarts each, then bleeding off to appropriate level come out to ≈87% new fluid from fractional dilution calculation, which is good enough for me.
As for my observations, the felt in the filter (no screen from what I observed) was a little grey compared to the new filter where the felt was a tan color. The pan was by no means filthy. Just a little mud steak or two on the metal. All the magnets were covered in a thin layer, but for all intents and purposes, things were pretty clean. The old fluid itself wasn't bad. It didn't look "new", but it was still red and in a reasonable condition. The was a noticeable difference in color and texture from the old WS and the new Amsoil. But at least now I know I don’t have anything nasty in the pan from the TSB crap and my trans is broken in with a clean pan, new filter, and fresh Amsoil ATF.
I plan on having this truck for a while and I most likely will never drop the pan again. I’ll probably just do two drain and fills every 75,000 miles or so. I mostly daily drive the truck for work but I do haul/tow periodically.
I hope this can be helpful to others in some way. Everyone has their own take on how a job is to be done, and this was mine. Happy driving.
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