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I’m the guy that developed the 3D printed mount. It’s still doing fine with 3700 miles on it and a fair amount of that is on rough washboard roads. I’m pleased with it.

Exactly. What are they not doing? They put a new tranny in and Toyota pays for it. That's the way it's setup.

It works fine for me. Are you turning the truck off while unhitching?

Toyota’s legal team isn’t going to allow a “driver” to sit without his hands on the wheel.

That's not the Adaptive Cruise Control. It's Lane Assist. And isn't it somewhere around 15 seconds? Me? I'd prefer people keep their hands on the wheel... :cool:

It won't produce any more power. You can plug a 1500-watt heat gun in, and it won't run.

Just push the volume button until the screen reboots, and it'll connect.

Just push your volume knob until the screen reboots.

Me? I added an axe to my Smartcap. Christmas is coming.

Throw a ball cap onto the dash sensor.

If it quits, you get an engine code. This wasn't an uncommon issue on the early builds but it's obviously been addressed.

By the way, the strike has been postponed until January.

I don't think the strike will slow your truck down. Mine was built in Baja and arrived in Missoula via rail 23 days later.

So you need 120 volts. The stock system includes the dash switch, the interior 120-volt plug, the wiring harness, the inverter, and the exterior plug plus the bed trim. It would be a lot simpler to purchase the appropriate inverter and a marine outlet for the bed such as a NOCO GCP1 Port Plug.

Everyone? It's probably because some want a rack or a topper.

Isn't it 12 volts?

It would be easy to wire in something like this:

I agree. :fistbump:

Just pop the trim off with a plastic spud.