Those are rivets.
https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/attachments/pt392-35240-install-pdf.32006/
Don't drill the middle, drill the head with a bit that is a bit larger than the hole (maybe 1/8" larger). The goal is to detach the head from the rest of the rivet.
Tacomas don't have or need this, since the wiper arms can be folded up from the parked position.
This function is only found on cars where the wipers tuck under the cowl in the parked position, which prevents the arms from being folded up to change the blades.
Others are touching on the same question - what is this clip? I don't think it's part of the tailgate mechanism. Can you post a pic from inside the bed, with the tailgate closed?
Toyota IFS has had a 1:1.5 motion ratio since the 1st Gen Taco/3rd Gen 4runner (based on my measurements at least, over all the versions).
So 1" of preload or spacer on the front coilover nets 1.5" of lift.
If you're on a dry road, and in 4wd, and you're in a long sweeper corner where you are turning 90°+ over a long distance (like most corners on every mountain pass), it'll still bind up the drivetrain just the same as if you cranked the steering to full lock and turned 90°+.
If you can't see any clear pavement on the road, 4wd will be fine.
If you can see small patches of pavement through the snow, 4wd will still be fine.
If the whole truck is on pavement with no snow or ice, 4wd will bind up the drivetrain. Even on wet pavement, though the unbind skid/scuff will...
I have that same divider, but have an issue with everything on the upper shelves sliding off. I need to add a lip to the shelves to prevent that. I'll probably stick on a thin line of plastic with some double stick tape.
My 2007 GX470 had a glovebox light. Certain 4th and 5th Gen 4Runners had...
Oh, and between the two tires, assuming that Toyos actually work well in Florida, your debate will be how heavy duty you want or need them to be.
If you'll be going offroad at all, especially somewhere with anything sharp or stabby (rocks, sticks, etc), some extra protection is worth the...
I live in Western WA State, where the roads range from damp to soaked with standing water for 60% of the year, and slushy/snowy for probably 10% of the year.
I've ran both SL and LT Falken ATs. I've never had a wet traction issue.
If someone were having such an issue, my first question would...
I'm 100% of the same opinion.
It's been proven that the T24A-FTS in our trucks is tuned for higher than 87 octane. This is evident because the engine produces more power on the dyno with 92 octane pump gas, than it does with 87 octane. If the engine was "only" tuned for 87 octane, there would...
Oh, and for some tire input:
I have the LT275/70R17 C-rated AT4Ws on my Taco. They are amazing tires so far, with ~9k miles on them. I wanted an LT for occasional towing support, and sharp rock protection on unmaintained forest/logging roads.
But if I didn't have those needs, an SL tire would...
Tire diameter has a larger impact to performance than tire weight.
Diameter directly affects overall gearing, while tire weight increases rotational weight which is less of an impact than most people realize...
https://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html
That site provides all the math...
If the wheel is at full lock, it's likely the steering stop between the spindle and the lower control arm catching.
Solution: slow down and don't smash over things at full lock. 😆
Been meaning to jump in here...
Tires are EXTREMELY subjective. So many factors affect how a tire performs and it's rarely apples to apples between different people and reviewers. A tire that is perfect for one person will suck for another person, even on the same truck.
Truck type and weight...
This is 100% accurate.
A new truck needs a while to break in, especially the suspension. My TRD OR suspension felt bad for the first couple months but also bedded in and the bushings loosened up. The OEM parts are meant to last 80-100k miles so they need time to loosen up and work correctly...