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You're spot on. I could dive into damping preferences and use cases, but I'll just say that I think 5100s are good shocks for a basic daily driver that may see an occasional dirt/gravel road at low speeds. The TRD Off Road shocks are better than 5100s for certain uses, and for certain drivers...

That's a big "it depends". The TRD Off Road dampers are a better quality, and more sophisticated, shock versus the 5100. But they are damped softer than average in the initial travel, and then MUCH firmer than average in the ESCV second stage of the travel. This is the whole "bottoming out"...

Bilstein 5100 (and 6112), along with all other "lift shocks" on the market, provide lift in one of two ways: The shocks are longer than stock (longer from the bottom spring perch to the lower mounting eye)(5100s are a bit longer than stock). The shocks preload the spring more than stock (such...

If I came across as condescending and judgemental, I apologize. That was not my intent. I was surprised, and genuinely curious about your situation, so I asked in a casual way that was supposed to be conversational. I obviously failed at that. I support anyone's rights to take calculated risks...

I have a case open with Toyota (Corporate) for my vibration. My Case Manager told me last week that there is now a fix for this specific recall - maybe it hasn't made it to every dealership yet. I recall that the gauge cluster will be inspected, then either (A) have the firmware updated, or (B)...

Whoa there. You made the comment, I asked for clarification because that's how conversations work.

So... Are you going to post the result?

Um ... What? Why?

I had that thought too, since carrier bearing spacers are commonly needed after rear lifts. When I loaded 500lb of crap in the bed of my truck, the suspension squatted ~1.5" from stock. The driveshaft angle of the rest half was now slightly up from perfectly in line with the front half. The...

Damn. Do you think the issue is inherent to the 2pc Spicer driveshafts that come on long bed trucks?

Since I'm dealing with a new vibration on my truck as well... Did anyone ever have success getting their dealership, or Corporate Toyota, to fix this? @Reptar - you got a new driveshaft, but did it also vibrate right away? Or gradually? I'll try that driveshaft camera test this weekend to see...

I skipped the exhaust dump as well, because of exhaust intrusion into the cab (especially when the rear window is open). It's a valid issue. I've also read about instances of exhaust heat scorching the rear axle.

Negative. You need to change one of the three screens to have a specific tire pressure display.

I tried pulling my negative battery terminal this morning for 30+ minutes, just to see what would happen. Maybe with all the electronics something would reset. No change. Blah.

Do you have the tire pressure screen showing on your gauge display? There's a graphic of the truck with four "psi" fields.

This is a benefit - it's less likely to unseat a bead at lower pressure, since the tire is naturally pulling the sidewall out into the bead lip. We used to do this back in the day on our cheap redneck wheeling trucks by running 12.5" wide tires on 8" wide steel wagon wheels.

With a stretched tire setup, the wheel itself is wider than the tire. Like this: (Yes, it's a silly stance car thing and it drives like crap) The "poke" in that kind of setup is the actual wheel, not the tire - so when the wheel gets wider, it pokes out more.

Nice job! That was a quick solution.

I'm being pedantic here, but for the sake of accuracy... You removed the plastic "cowl cover", and we're now looking at the cowl itself. The cowl is the metal body piece that is permanently attached to the cab. At each end of the cowl, there is a drain gap where the fenders attach. Critters...