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Mine came with Toyo brand tires. I'm at 17k and they still have around 7/32" on them last I checked when I did my 15k oil change.

I don't think I've ever seen a symbol on the IC for the daytime running lights. I can see they're on in the reflection of the car in front of me at stop lights, but I only have the low beam and fog light indicators that come on when it's dark. My lights are set to auto.

This is great to know. I'm getting ready to tow a 94 Camaro about 300 miles next month. I figured it would be no issue, but this definitely helps reassure me of that.

What are you guys using to paint the emblems? I'm wanting to black mine out to match the rest of the truck.

That gear oil should work. The process is really straightforward as you mentioned. Remove the fill plug, remove drain plug, let it drain, install drain plug, fill until gear oil starts overflowing from the fill plug, install fill plug and you're done. I haven't really looked, but if the 4th gens...

I use mine to get to work and back, have the toolbox for my roadside kit and bringing tools home for side work, and the bed is great for large or dirty stuff I don't want inside the vehicle. Along with helping with a couple moves. Could use that tailgate mat to complete the covering back there...

Without looking them up specifically, I can tell you the B codes are all body control issues, and the U codes are communication codes between modules. Definitely an electrical issue. I'd almost be willing to bet there's a pinched/damaged wiring harness somewhere.

It's definitely possible. I get bad parts out of the box multiple times a week. This should absolutely have been caught before leaving the shop. Any time I do brake work, the vehicle gets a good test drive and re-check before it leaves the shop.

I've got a crossbed toolbox with what I call my roadside kit. 1/2" drive electric impact driver with a 21mm, 19mm, and 17mm socket (most common lug nut sizes so I can help other people), 1/2" drive torque wrench, battery powered tire inflator, jack stands, jumper cables, ratchet straps, and...

I don't think all the trim levels have that. I haven't seen an option for it on my SR5, but I'll have to double check.

Some vehicles have a procedure where you can go lock to lock in the steering to reset the SAS, but I believe with Toyotas, you have to do it with a bi-directional scan tool

When I installed my dashcam, I removed the two hooks above the rear seat, along with the B and C pillar trims. For the front, remove the A pillar trim, and the sunglass holder/center console part of the headliner. The A and B pillar trims are held in with a few 10mm bolts. The rest of it should...

Some sort of organizer for the rear underseat storage area

My 2wd SR5 has it.

The fob isn't tied to the app. But with how finicky the remote start is and how low the range is, I never use it. I can usually walk to the truck and get in in less time than it takes to get the timing right on the fob to remote start it.

Another good way to test for radial pull is to switch the sides of the front tires. If it starts pulling the other way, it's a tire issue, not an alignment issue.

Lifting a vehicle like that is perfectly fine. We do it at my shop when we don't have any lifts available. It doesn't put load on any suspension components that aren't already under load when sitting on the tires. That shouldn't do anything to the alignment unless the tech that did the alignment...

It definitely looks like the same picture, just cropped in different ways. And you don't necessarily need to credit a photographer if you either bought the rights to a photo or used a stock photo that's in the public domain.

I'd have to look more into it, but that sounds like a vacuum leak detection pump for the evap system.

There may have been no engine codes, but errors like that will throw codes in multiple other systems. A lot of the smaller handheld OBD readers don't go into those systems. The tech's scan tool probably was able to read and erase codes in the other modules that control those systems. Getting a...