Aftermarket subwoofer upgrade for 2024 Tacoma TRD Off-Road -- Update: added amp (Kicker key500.1) to power factory subwoofer

[Jarvis14]

Before I even took delivery of my tacoma, I had plans on installing a 8" shallow mount subwoofer. In the previous 3rd gen tacoma, it looked like it was fairly easy to install a shallow subwoofer behind the rear passenger seat.

Unfortunately, that's not the case with the 4th gen. The bottle jack mount is welded to the seat mount and doesn't have much room for a shallow mount 8" box.

I'm disappointed with the factory JBL subwoofer enclosure. The enclosure has basically no volume to it. Looks like i'll have to find a shop to make me a custom enclosure to replace the factory JBL 10" subwoofer. Any other thoughts/recommendations?

Do you happen to know where the factory amp location is?

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[jci]

Do you happen to know where the factory amp location is?

I believe it’s under the drivers seat. But i haven’t actually looked for it.

 

[ramble22]

I forgot to mention, I used techstream to disable active noise cancellation. In order to get the kicker key amp to do it's auto DSP programming, it says active noise cancellation must be turned off. I already had the mini vci cable from owning toyotas in the past. I believe you can find the mini vci cable online for around $30-40. You might also be able to get your local dealership to disable the ANC.

Were you able to use Techstream software locally installed to a PC, or did you have to use the new browser based Global Techstream? My understanding was the former does not support the 2024 Tacoma, but it would be great if that's not true.

 

[jci]

Were you able to use Techstream software locally installed to a PC, or did you have to use the new browser based Global Techstream? My understanding was the former does not support the 2024 Tacoma, but it would be great if that's not true.

i used the one installed to my pc. it doesn’t show 2024 tacoma as an option, but i was still able to communicate with the ecms.

 

[Snowjunky24]

What are the options for aftermarket subwoofer for non jbl trucks

 

[jdmz]

How did you get the signal? Did you just take the factory subwoofer signal and feed it directly into your amp as a high level input?

 

[jci]

How did you get the signal? Did you just take the factory subwoofer signal and feed it directly into your amp as a high level input?

yup exactly. cut plug off from factory subwoofer and used the wires to feed the amp.

 

[Snowjunky24]

Has anyone wired a sub for non JBL systems? Where did you find signal wires?

 

[Darkhorse24]

@jci tbh, this is an ongoing discussion amongst many groups and forums…. This solution isn’t just for the JBL equipped but the non-JBL as well. TacoTunes is still developing their enclosure for a single/dual 8” up to a 12 (single and dual) enclosure… seems a little long for R&D when many new and small business have boxes already made for the 4G, including GroundShaker and JL Audio (way too expensive for what it is at $1400).

As an installer of 20+ years (MECP Advanced), I have outfitted mine and another 4G with 2 different setups. In mine, I opted for an under seat 12” Rockford T1S1-12 (600w RMS/1200w peak), powered by the Audio Control EPIC 750, all factory speakers have been replaced with the 3.5” coax (dash), T1675 front door, PPS4-6 (Punch series) rear doors… powered by the Audio Control LC4.800 and the Audio Control DM810 for a DSP/LOC. The integration module I used was the Beat Sonic BH10 (the Taco Tunes PnP is way too expensive especially since once Stinger introduces the Horizon12 for the 4G, it will be a drop in replacement… the TT runs around $150 for just a speaker harness with a dedicated constant power and speaker level harness bypass).

the other build I just did was using the standard STYLE truck wedge box… exact duplicate of the one that TacoTunes is launching and since I have an acquaintance at TT, I got my hands on their design and replicated in a rhinolined finish. But instead of using a single 8, 10’ or 12”, I have 2 Memphis Audio Mojo Mini 8” subs with the same setup but used a 2500 watt amp and used the Audio Control LC5i Pro (it’s only $150 my cost versus the DM810 that goes for $700).

The way I mounted both amplifiers and LOC/DSP is virtually the same since I used my 4G as a testing ground. If you’re talented and have the tools, you can DIY it yourself. Take a 1/4” thick 15x36” ABS sheet and lay out your snaps, LOC/DSP, distribution blocks and a solid ruler for binding your cables. With 6 mounting points to attach to either your can wall (notching out the seatbelt) or mounting to the back of the seat, attach your amps and converters then your distribution blocks, you can run your wires binding them with zip ties then run your AWG 1/0 from your battery through your passenger side firewall (17-20’) to the sheet into your distribution block, then a short 3’ ground (1/0) from your seat belt bolt (bare metal), run to your grounding block. Then run AWG 4 to your amps and fasten it all down to the sheet with zip ties so it’s clean and won’t hang loose. Run a 16/4 or a Speed Wire from your BH10 through the center of your console from behind the radio to under the rear bench and connect to your AB amplifier. Then run to your fuse box under your glove box to your remote tune on, grounds and power on your LOC/DSP. Then using the shortest cable possible (3-6’) connect your RCA from your LOC/DSP to both amps. The last step is the easiest. If you’re connecting the ABS to your cab, you can mount on top of the factory sound dampening skin but I chose to remove it all together and put in new sound material since it will then give plenty of room behind your seats. In my personal truck, I still removed all the sound material from Toyota and put plain black sound mat and covered the wall from the top where the seat belt is attached to just above the plastic compartments… I mounted my amp rack to the seat with the sub and 4 channel amps behind the 60% side and my DSP/LOC on the 40% side so it was on the same side as the fuse box to make runs shorter with the 1/0 primary and ground on the drivers side… this allows for the seats to fold down and since the seats are solid backed, requires less bracing than the uneven surface of the cab wall.

for a little extra “flair”, I added an LED strip under the plastic below the window and attached it to the power and ground distro blocks so only when the truck is on, will the LEDs switch on.

easy for an installer, just takes 4-5hrs for us but with careful planning and templates (using scrap cardboard), you can duplicate this design as well and as long as it tucks neatly behind the seats, you can use whatever amp you’d like.

On that note, the factory sub and enclosure are trash and only (realistically) has a 150w RMS and 300w peak… as long as you beef up the aftermarket boxes with polyfil and sound deadening, it will out perform and be more efficient than stock systems… sad since the JBL equipped is a $6000 option for subpar audio.

one last note, I used really nice SDHQ battery terminals which can attach audio, lighting, compressors, etc and not require cutting any factory power or grounds, but adds extra connections.

(https://sdhqoffroad.com/products/24...bzWjKENa1JlWMLyyUaW63IPiL8G7Wo7NcUrqLklIaOCt8 )

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