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PeceKeepr

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2024 TRD Sport Hybrid So awhile back I posted my build only one thing is left which is tomorrow a 3.5 Ironman pro cell lift. I’ve installed 95% of everything myself. Auxbeam Switch Panel, Sherpa rack Baja xl, Baja s2 fog lights, Caliraised bumper and lightbar, custom grille from Cutting edge off road, cheap Chinese rgb fang lights(if you know lol) Morimoto rock lights, Apex Badlands 12000 lbs synthetic winch, trifold rough country tonneau cover, blacked out tail lights Wraps4Real, 33”Toyo

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PeceKeepr

PeceKeepr

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Funny story my girlfriend was accusing me of seeing another woman and I was like what? What are you talking about? She said it was a woman named Lola and she kept it going for several hours until she told me it was the truck. So I named the truck Lola 🤣
 

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BIGPZA

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2024 TRD Sport Hybrid So awhile back I posted my build only one thing is left which is tomorrow a 3.5 Ironman pro cell lift. I’ve installed 95% of everything myself. Auxbeam Switch Panel, Sherpa rack Baja xl, Baja s2 fog lights, Caliraised bumper and lightbar, custom grille from Cutting edge off road, cheap Chinese rgb fang lights(if you know lol) Morimoto rock lights, Apex Badlands 12000 lbs synthetic winch, trifold rough country tonneau cover, blacked out tail lights Wraps4Real, 33”Toyo

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IMG_6523.jpeg


IMG_6474.jpeg


IMG_6490.jpeg


IMG_6476.jpeg


IMG_6473.jpeg


IMG_6485.jpeg


IMG_6475.jpeg
Also, give us the deets on the Temu fang lights. How was the install for those?
 

rougesix29

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2024 TRD Sport Hybrid So awhile back I posted my build only one thing is left which is tomorrow a 3.5 Ironman pro cell lift. I’ve installed 95% of everything myself. Auxbeam Switch Panel, Sherpa rack Baja xl, Baja s2 fog lights, Caliraised bumper and lightbar, custom grille from Cutting edge off road, cheap Chinese rgb fang lights(if you know lol) Morimoto rock lights, Apex Badlands 12000 lbs synthetic winch, trifold rough country tonneau cover, blacked out tail lights Wraps4Real, 33”Toyo

IMG_6517.jpeg


IMG_6523.jpeg


IMG_6474.jpeg


IMG_6490.jpeg


IMG_6476.jpeg


IMG_6473.jpeg


IMG_6485.jpeg


IMG_6475.jpeg
Nice work. I’m waiting for my roof rack then I’ll be done with mine. Well done.
 
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PeceKeepr

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Also, give us the deets on the Temu fang lights. How was the install for those?
Well since I had to remove the front facade for all the aftermarket stuff installing the fangs was easy. When you do a TRD pro grille or any custom grille you basically have to remove 3 clips of the area with the fang. You could get to it easy if you went through the front fender and pulled my the fender liner. Some of the videos I’ve seen people are pulling prying and breaking the clips which is wrong. Also on videos I e seen people are pulling of the front fender flares which I’ve done 3 times and I notice yesterday that by doing that I’ve broke on a clip on both the drivers side and passengers side. I digress but now I’ve noticed since the trade war with China the price of those has doubled. I got them for 60$ something and now they’re like 120$
 

Darkhorse24

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Also, give us the deets on the Temu fang lights. How was the install for those?
those fang lights are pretty generic across the board. I wouldn’t use them since it looks cheap (personal opinion, of course), but I’ve reluctantly installed them for others since they know I deal with 12v systems as a certified MECP Advanced installer of 20yrs (car audio, lighting, etc). But to answer your question, the housings are pretty simple with 4 clips but you are required to pull the entire grill assembly just to access them.. so if you’re just installing those, it’ll be a lot of effort for a small result, if you plan on swapping fog lights., heritage grill and lightbar, wait til you have everything and do it in one swoop. As far as wiring goes (the biggest hinderance to installing anything that’s a small accessory, it’s not a true T-harness or plugs into a switch, it requires using a wire tap ($2 for a pack of 10) and you have to tap into a running light wire on each side so it will activate on a solid state or switchback via turn signal wire with a constant. This means that unlike doing a simple 22 gauge split wire, you’re making a tap into a wire with no insulation, so if you decide to remove them or you have any issues (which there usually is), your wire is exposed and weakened…. The only thing I would suggest highly is to use butt con textiles and create a long length of wire to your battery or aux switches so you can activate when you want and not be stuck with them always on. Also consider that while MOST aftermarket and factory LEDs typically last 50,000 hours, you don’t always run them like light bars, headlights, rock lights, etc, the fang lights will always be on and since they are Chinese designed with cheap LEDs and boards, that 50,000 hr lifespan will now be closer to 25,000hrs AT MOST. Nearly every installation I’ve done have regretted them or lost the interest in using them esp when the PCB starts to malfunction and you’ll end up with one side staying amber or white when it’s supposed to be a switchback and not match the other “fang”.

if you’re interested in doing any kind of mod to those panels, I highly suggest doing something that’s actually functional and looks aesthetically pleasing. These are direct replacements and even though the price is about $500, this includes the lights, wiring and replacement brackets. You can choose between spot or flood and it’s going to produce about 2,300lm each. If you chose to do this option, the flush mount lights themselves will run around $250 and includes the brackets, wiring and switch but with that extra $250, you get a “discount” on the fang pieces which are typically $350 from Toyota, plus long wiring, a better bracket and you can choose between amber or white. This is available from Baja Designs but some of the top teor companies like KC, Diode Dyn, Baja and others do have similar flush mounts in size but higher output… like KC has the Flex Era 1 that will run $330 and 2,400lm, Diode Dynamics SSC1 Soort is 1,500lm and the Pro is 2,,400 but you can opt for white, amber or red backlight.

the options are out there for much better quality and design plus these brands have various warranties against manufacturing flaws, LEDs and PCBs but more important, if you crack a lens or the gasket deteriorates, you can order new for $5-10 whereas the fang lights, you’ve spent the $200 and have no guarantee it will last a year, maybe two, if you’re lucky.

IMG_8506.jpeg
 

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Darkhorse24

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Well since I had to remove the front facade for all the aftermarket stuff installing the fangs was easy. When you do a TRD pro grille or any custom grille you basically have to remove 3 clips of the area with the fang. You could get to it easy if you went through the front fender and pulled my the fender liner. Some of the videos I’ve seen people are pulling prying and breaking the clips which is wrong. Also on videos I e seen people are pulling of the front fender flares which I’ve done 3 times and I notice yesterday that by doing that I’ve broke on a clip on both the drivers side and passengers side. I digress but now I’ve noticed since the trade war with China the price of those has doubled. I got them for 60$ something and now they’re like 120$
Pretty sure you meant “fascia” not “facade” (the outward or street facing side of a BUILDING or a covering to hide unsightly inner workings). 😂 But agreed, it’s a lot of work to fix when someone thinks it’s easier to do it another way when there’s a proper way to do an install… Im sure a lot of people have royally screwed up, regretted it and then told people “this is the wrong way to do it… #AskMeHowIKnow”. Now once thing you forgot was that by bending the fenders, you run the risk of splitting plastic and even spidering/cracking paint… even though they are plastic, the plastic itself is bendable but the paint and retainers will sheer off esp if you forget even a single one, that bolt will hold but the plastic definitely won’t. (Too many years of working in a body shop and finding hundreds of broken clips, rivets and damaged panels had to be fixed at my former dealership by nearly every tech who thought that if it doesn’t move, put torque on it 😂
 
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PeceKeepr

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those fang lights are pretty generic across the board. I wouldn’t use them since it looks cheap (personal opinion, of course), but I’ve reluctantly installed them for others since they know I deal with 12v systems as a certified MECP Advanced installer of 20yrs (car audio, lighting, etc). But to answer your question, the housings are pretty simple with 4 clips but you are required to pull the entire grill assembly just to access them.. so if you’re just installing those, it’ll be a lot of effort for a small result, if you plan on swapping fog lights., heritage grill and lightbar, wait til you have everything and do it in one swoop. As far as wiring goes (the biggest hinderance to installing anything that’s a small accessory, it’s not a true T-harness or plugs into a switch, it requires using a wire tap ($2 for a pack of 10) and you have to tap into a running light wire on each side so it will activate on a solid state or switchback via turn signal wire with a constant. This means that unlike doing a simple 22 gauge split wire, you’re making a tap into a wire with no insulation, so if you decide to remove them or you have any issues (which there usually is), your wire is exposed and weakened…. The only thing I would suggest highly is to use butt con textiles and create a long length of wire to your battery or aux switches so you can activate when you want and not be stuck with them always on. Also consider that while MOST aftermarket and factory LEDs typically last 50,000 hours, you don’t always run them like light bars, headlights, rock lights, etc, the fang lights will always be on and since they are Chinese designed with cheap LEDs and boards, that 50,000 hr lifespan will now be closer to 25,000hrs AT MOST. Nearly every installation I’ve done have regretted them or lost the interest in using them esp when the PCB starts to malfunction and you’ll end up with one side staying amber or white when it’s supposed to be a switchback and not match the other “fang”.

if you’re interested in doing any kind of mod to those panels, I highly suggest doing something that’s actually functional and looks aesthetically pleasing. These are direct replacements and even though the price is about $500, this includes the lights, wiring and replacement brackets. You can choose between spot or flood and it’s going to produce about 2,300lm each. If you chose to do this option, the flush mount lights themselves will run around $250 and includes the brackets, wiring and switch but with that extra $250, you get a “discount” on the fang pieces which are typically $350 from Toyota, plus long wiring, a better bracket and you can choose between amber or white. This is available from Baja Designs but some of the top teor companies like KC, Diode Dyn, Baja and others do have similar flush mounts in size but higher output… like KC has the Flex Era 1 that will run $330 and 2,400lm, Diode Dynamics SSC1 Soort is 1,500lm and the Pro is 2,,400 but you can opt for white, amber or red backlight.

the options are out there for much better quality and design plus these brands have various warranties against manufacturing flaws, LEDs and PCBs but more important, if you crack a lens or the gasket deteriorates, you can order new for $5-10 whereas the fang lights, you’ve spent the $200 and have no guarantee it will last a year, maybe two, if you’re lucky.

IMG_8506.jpeg
I wish I had known that about The flush mounts for those I probably would have ran that. I do have the fang running to my auxbeam.
 

BIGPZA

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those fang lights are pretty generic across the board. I wouldn’t use them since it looks cheap (personal opinion, of course), but I’ve reluctantly installed them for others since they know I deal with 12v systems as a certified MECP Advanced installer of 20yrs (car audio, lighting, etc). But to answer your question, the housings are pretty simple with 4 clips but you are required to pull the entire grill assembly just to access them.. so if you’re just installing those, it’ll be a lot of effort for a small result, if you plan on swapping fog lights., heritage grill and lightbar, wait til you have everything and do it in one swoop. As far as wiring goes (the biggest hinderance to installing anything that’s a small accessory, it’s not a true T-harness or plugs into a switch, it requires using a wire tap ($2 for a pack of 10) and you have to tap into a running light wire on each side so it will activate on a solid state or switchback via turn signal wire with a constant. This means that unlike doing a simple 22 gauge split wire, you’re making a tap into a wire with no insulation, so if you decide to remove them or you have any issues (which there usually is), your wire is exposed and weakened…. The only thing I would suggest highly is to use butt con textiles and create a long length of wire to your battery or aux switches so you can activate when you want and not be stuck with them always on. Also consider that while MOST aftermarket and factory LEDs typically last 50,000 hours, you don’t always run them like light bars, headlights, rock lights, etc, the fang lights will always be on and since they are Chinese designed with cheap LEDs and boards, that 50,000 hr lifespan will now be closer to 25,000hrs AT MOST. Nearly every installation I’ve done have regretted them or lost the interest in using them esp when the PCB starts to malfunction and you’ll end up with one side staying amber or white when it’s supposed to be a switchback and not match the other “fang”.

if you’re interested in doing any kind of mod to those panels, I highly suggest doing something that’s actually functional and looks aesthetically pleasing. These are direct replacements and even though the price is about $500, this includes the lights, wiring and replacement brackets. You can choose between spot or flood and it’s going to produce about 2,300lm each. If you chose to do this option, the flush mount lights themselves will run around $250 and includes the brackets, wiring and switch but with that extra $250, you get a “discount” on the fang pieces which are typically $350 from Toyota, plus long wiring, a better bracket and you can choose between amber or white. This is available from Baja Designs but some of the top teor companies like KC, Diode Dyn, Baja and others do have similar flush mounts in size but higher output… like KC has the Flex Era 1 that will run $330 and 2,400lm, Diode Dynamics SSC1 Soort is 1,500lm and the Pro is 2,,400 but you can opt for white, amber or red backlight.

the options are out there for much better quality and design plus these brands have various warranties against manufacturing flaws, LEDs and PCBs but more important, if you crack a lens or the gasket deteriorates, you can order new for $5-10 whereas the fang lights, you’ve spent the $200 and have no guarantee it will last a year, maybe two, if you’re lucky.

IMG_8506.jpeg
Thanks, dude. Super thorough. After reading that, I'm definitely thinking better of it. I have more than enough practical lighting at this point, I was strictly considering it because I think they look cool. But yeah, have all the same concerns you mentioned. Wouldn't be looking forward to dropping the whole front fascia again, or dealing with cheap LEDs and circuitry. If I ever get around to installing a winch bumper, maybe someone reputable will be producing them by then.
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