That is weird. I'll have to try to pay attention to that. The TPMS screen problem hasn't happened to me for a couple of weeks (very unpredictable), but I normally wait until the engine rpm drops to 1k before I take it out of Park.
Took my grandsons there again in Feb. (we go every couple of years) We did Ubehebe crater and finally made it to the big sand dune at Stovepipe Wells. Was going to take them to the racetrack but the thought of 2-3 hrs each way (27mile dirt road) with 2 ADHD boys changed my mind.
If you're out...
Dealer always overinflates mine to 36 (door placard says 30). So, any time the tires get touched by someone else I adjust the pressure and re-torque the lug nuts.
My real dilemma with pressure is which gauge to trust. I have 2 dial gauges that match but show 2 psi higher than the TPWS display...
"Meter Type" in settings. Types are dual analog meters (the default), a single analog meter (speed or rpm) in the center of the display, or numeric speed in the center.
Last road trip (735 mi) I got 19.7 which is way down for me, but I just added a rack to my shell. Had one 45 mile stretch that was 14 due to headwinds.
Crawl under and look at the metal thickness and welds on the frame vs the thickness and welds on the stock (loop) towing point. I just don't see any point in bolting a thick chunk of metal in place of the stock points. Looks like ARB is doing a wrap-around point that has multiple frame...
It's actually in the manual (at 1000 mi)
When rotating, repairing or
changing your tires, check
that the wheel nuts are still
tight after driving 1000 miles
(1600 km).
Since most drivers are not aware of it, many mechanics will over torque the nuts a bit.
I had completely forgotten this and...
I usually wait for the RPM to drop to 1000 before putting it in gear. More because I don't like the hard thunk going into gear than any worry about the turbo.