Additional armor needed on Trailhunter?

[FlyAngler]

I'm looking for opinions from those with several years of off roading and rock crawling experience in a Tacoma to weigh in.

The use case is traveling on unmaintained "roads" that often involves some rock crawling and potential for hitting hidden rocks when going through mud puddles. I'm starting to make frequent use of my rock sliders and other stock protection on the Trailhunter, but am new to this more serious off roading.

Specifically, I'm wondering about this list.:

1. Lower control arm skids?
2. Replace plastic fuel tank skid with metal skid?
3. Trailing arm skids?
4. Rear shock mount skids (already made the choice to install these - RCI)?
5. Anything else I'm not asking about that you would suggest?

Specific brands and things to look for (e.g. thickness) are helpful when supported by your rationale.

Thanks for taking the time to share your expertise!

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[FlyAngler]

Just because I was curious to see how Gemini (Google) AI would respond, I pasted my questions into it. I understand AI doesn't always get it right. Here's the response just FYI:

Hello! As an AI with access to a vast amount of off-roading knowledge and community consensus, I can certainly provide the perspective you're looking for.
Here is how an experienced off-roader would likely respond to your questions.
Hey there, great questions. It sounds like you're starting to find the limits of the stock Trailhunter protection, which is exactly what it's for—getting you started. As you move into more technical terrain, especially with hidden obstacles, a systematic armor-up plan is the smartest way to protect your investment.
My philosophy on armor is to prioritize in this order:
* Vitals: Anything that, if punctured, ends your trip immediately (oil pan, fuel tank, transmission pan).
* Low-Hanging "Anchor" Points: Components that hang down and are likely to get hit, stopping you dead or causing mobility-killing damage (LCA mounts, rear shock mounts, diff).
* "Slide-ability": Smoothing out the entire undercarriage to glide over obstacles rather than getting hung up.
Based on that, here’s my take on your list.
1. Lower Control Arm (LCA) Skids?
Verdict: YES. This should be your #1 priority.
* Rationale: Your LCAs and their alignment cam bolts are the lowest, most forward-facing components on your front suspension. They are a magnet for rocks. A single hard hit can (and does) shear off a cam bolt, destroy your alignment, or bend the arm itself. Any of these will leave you stranded on the trail.
* What to look for: You want skids that act as a ramp, helping the truck slide up and over an obstacle.
* Material: For rock crawling, 3/16" steel is the standard. It's heavy, but it slides well on rocks and can take repeated, hard impacts. 1/4" aluminum is an option to save weight, but it's more expensive and tends to "gouge" or "stick" on sharp rocks rather than slide.
* Coverage: Ensure the skid fully protects the bottom of the arm and the alignment cam bolts.
* Brands: RCI (since you like them), CBI, Victory 4x4, and Cali Raised all make excellent, high-coverage steel options for the 4th Gen.
2. Replace Plastic Fuel Tank Skid with Metal Skid?
Verdict: YES. This is a top-tier "Vital" component.
* Rationale: The Trailhunter has an upgraded skid from the base models, but it's still not designed for the full weight of the truck landing on a sharp rock. A punctured fuel tank is one of the most catastrophic failures you can have off-road. It ends your trip, is a significant fire and environmental hazard, and is an incredibly expensive repair.
* What to look for:
* Material: This is a place where 1/4" aluminum is a very popular choice. The fuel tank is large, so a steel skid is very heavy (often 70-80 lbs). Aluminum provides excellent puncture resistance for this application while saving significant weight. If you are a "steel is real" purist, 3/16" steel is the bomb-proof (but heavy) solution.
* Brands: RCI, C4 Fabrication, and CBI all offer 4th Gen fuel tank skids.
3. Trailing Arm Skids?
Verdict: YES. This is a critical "Anchor Point" fix.
* Rationale: You're referring to the frame-side mounts for the rear lower links (trailing arms), and you are 100% correct to be concerned. These brackets hang down significantly and are notorious for catching on rocks. They act like a perfect hook, which can stop the truck dead, bend the mount, or even damage the arm.
* What to look for: This is a simple, high-reward part. You're looking for a robust piece of 3/16" steel that bolts over the factory mount and provides a smooth, angled face to deflect impacts and slide off obstacles.
* Brands: Rago Fabrication, DV8, and Exit Offroad all make popular, no-nonsense skids for this exact purpose.
4. Rear Shock Mount Skids?
Verdict: Good choice. You're already on the right track.
* Rationale: You already bought the RCI set, which is a great call. Like the trailing arm mounts, the lower shock mounts are low-hanging, thin, and a common hang-up point. A hard hit can bend the mount (misaligning your shock) or even break the shock's lower eyelet. This is cheap, easy insurance.
5. Anything else I'm not asking about?
Absolutely. Now that you've covered the most vulnerable low-hanging parts, you should look at the rest of the "vitals."
* Full Drivetrain Skids (Engine, Transmission, Transfer Case): The Trailhunter comes with factory skids, which are a huge step up from the base model's felt/plastic covers. However, you should get under the truck and assess them. Aftermarket skids (from RCI, C4, CBI, etc.) are typically made from thicker 3/16" steel or 1/4" aluminum and, most importantly, are designed to overlap and create one smooth, continuous "belly" with no gaps for a rock or root to get caught. Your use case (hidden rocks in mud) makes this interlocking, full-coverage system very valuable.
* Rear Differential Skid: The diff is the lowest point on your axle. A hard hit can peel back the cover, causing a fluid leak, or even crack the differential housing itself. The Trailhunter should have the factory ARB rear diff skid, which is quite good. Just inspect it and make sure it's sufficient for your needs. If not, many companies offer beefier bolt-on options.
* E-Locker Skid: The motor for your rear e-locker is a plastic/metal box bolted to the side of the differential. It's vulnerable to side-swipes from rocks. A small, bolt-on "e-locker skid" is a very cheap and smart piece of armor to protect it.
Final Advice:
Start with LCA skids (Priority #1) and the fuel tank skid (Priority #2). These protect against the most common and/or most catastrophic failures. From there, add the trailing arm and shock skids. Once that's done, assess your factory drivetrain skids and decide if you need to upgrade to a full, interlocking aftermarket system.
Good luck with the build!

 

[TFOUTS]

On the way home to Florida from my Colorado/Utah/Idaho trip last June, I stopped in rural Alabama at the Toyota dealer where I bought the TH for the 15,000 mile service and also let them assess the tailgate warning light coming on. Most of the mechanics and also the service manager were offroad enthusiast, so they put me at the head of the line with no appointment needed. They also inspected the undercarriage and their recommendations were the following: lower control arm protection, even though the OEM are quite beefy, rear trailing arm skids, and rear shock mount skids. Even though my fuel tank skid was scratched, it was not gouged, so for now it was doing the job, but I will probably replace it with an aluminum skid plate to minimize the weight. When I do the fuel tank, I will also cover the transfer case, but at this point, I’m not planning on going on any trails higher than a four , so the rest of the underneath is probably safe. As for the tailgate warning light, adding the bed stiffeners cured that problem; my bed rack and rooftop tent added some stress to the left side of the composite bed frame. Wash board dirt roads, even while aired down, can add more stress.

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