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What engine oil and oil filter? Oil change intervals?
- Thread starter Chileburger
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I know what you mean. I guess this is a good discussion such there we're educating ourselves.
I'm going to visit the dealer parts dept and find out what the Toyota OEM 90915-YZZN1 filters cost per each at the dealer. Also if 90915-YZZF2 are equivalent as is indicated on the AMZ website link per below. That'll take a few days but I will report back. My best guess at this point is Toyota OEM is best, though Amsoil filter might otherwise be the best per that ChatGPT output. Sigh.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=toyota+o...yota+oil+filter+yzzn1,aps,98&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
I'm going to visit the dealer parts dept and find out what the Toyota OEM 90915-YZZN1 filters cost per each at the dealer. Also if 90915-YZZF2 are equivalent as is indicated on the AMZ website link per below. That'll take a few days but I will report back. My best guess at this point is Toyota OEM is best, though Amsoil filter might otherwise be the best per that ChatGPT output. Sigh.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=toyota+o...yota+oil+filter+yzzn1,aps,98&ref=nb_sb_noss_1
For my Toyota vehicles, I always use OEM filters because:
1, I buy in bulk, and they are usually cheaper than third-party filters.
2. They're OEM.
I usually stay out of the never-ending debates about oil change intervals, oil types, etc. Here’s how I look at it:
1. If it meets the manufacturer's specs, you'll be good to go regardless of the label.
2. I've used everything from the cheapest to the most overpriced options. Not once have I ever had any issue—good or bad—that I attributed to the oil. And yes, I sometimes push it to 10K miles.
3. Change your oil and filter within the recommended intervals, and you should never have an issue.
Finally, manufacturers spend millions on engine design and have years of data to back up their recommendations. Yet, some guy on the internet says something different, and everyone wants to use him as the standard.
1, I buy in bulk, and they are usually cheaper than third-party filters.
2. They're OEM.
I usually stay out of the never-ending debates about oil change intervals, oil types, etc. Here’s how I look at it:
1. If it meets the manufacturer's specs, you'll be good to go regardless of the label.
2. I've used everything from the cheapest to the most overpriced options. Not once have I ever had any issue—good or bad—that I attributed to the oil. And yes, I sometimes push it to 10K miles.
3. Change your oil and filter within the recommended intervals, and you should never have an issue.
Finally, manufacturers spend millions on engine design and have years of data to back up their recommendations. Yet, some guy on the internet says something different, and everyone wants to use him as the standard.
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New reply to an old post, but the Toyota OEM oil contains ~10X the Moly that Mobil 1 contains. At the counter (and ask for a discount) the OEM oil isn't much more per quart than M1, Penn Ultra, etc. Should be able to talk them down to ~$5.75/qt (Mobil 1 is ~$5/qt)
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bump . . . . .
ymmv
imho
that 10x more moly in the Toyota brand oil should not be dismissed . I trust Toyota to spec out exactly what their own designed engine needs more than any oil manufacturer . Toyota didn't add way more Moly for no reason , I have always used Toyota brand oil for the last 30 years of owning multiple Toyota's .Never had any issues with engines &/or wear . most all were over 250,000 miles when sold . I also never traded in my Toyota's , always resold privately 4 more than any in-trade offer
ymmv
imho
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No. Base oil is pretty much all the same. The oil manufacturers do some things differently with the bases, esp with synthetic, but what makes them different are the additives and that's why you see many different types from the same brand - e.g. High Mileage, Platinum, Ultra, etc. All car manufacturers have their own oil, and it is spec'd by them. For example, Honda oil is made by Valvoline. Toyota uses Mobil to manufacture their oil and probably many of their fluids. That's why many people believe Mobil 1 is the Toyota OEM oil -- but it's not. It's likely the closest 'stock' Mobil oil you can get to it, but Toyota specifies a different set of additives to the oil that is different than Mobil 1. The oil analysis is available on various websites. The thing that is very different with the Toyota oill you buy from them - and what is in the initial fill - is the amount of Moly in it. Like there's a lot of it. Moly primarily functions as an anti-wear and friction modifier, reducing friction and preventing metal-to-metal contact. It forms a protective layer on engine surfaces, enhancing lubrication and extending the life of engine components. Moly also provides some protection against oxidation and corrosion.
Now moly is great, but just having more of it isn't everything so that's not the point for me at least. What is important to me is that the formulation (Moly and all the other additives in a specific combination) is what the folks that designed and built the engine say is the best formulation for Toyota engines.
It's possible there are other standard formulations from other brands like Amsol, Pennzoil, etc that might provide better protection than the Toyota oil. But for me, why guess through experimentation? Also very important is that any quality oil (Kirkland, Mobil, Supertech, etc) is totally fine to use as long as it is the correct spec. So this is nothing to sweat - it's just personal choice.
One final thing - If you watch The Motor Oil Geek he did an analysis of oils where he looked at what happens when you change formulations around. So let's say you go from Mobil 1 to Amsoil to Kirkland. In the short term it wasn't a good thing because there's always residual oil in the engine, and some of the additives from the prior oil 'conflict' with the new oil. It sorts itself out after a few changes, but the lesson for me was to find an oil I like & trust and stick with it.
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