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Try this thread. Not a direct answer to your question but someone has done it. https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/threads/controlling-my-rough-country-power-running-boards-with-a-factory-switch.4609/

Hi All, Just wanted to share I found this bed mat on Amazon for $87 tax/shipped. TPU material. It appears to be good quality but time will tell how well it lasts. Came folded in a box and this image is after 3 days after it has flattened out. No issues with fitment or with the tailgate either...

This has happened to me once and upon touching the blank display, it fired back up in a few seconds.

I’ve been running 89 the entire 7500 miles I have on my truck and I’m glad to see that there is some marginal benefit…

Go 6ft bed. If you aren't going to rock crawl or do any rigorous off-roading, then the extra bed capacity is worth the loss in breakover angle and turning radius. After my first firewood haul I was glad I went long bed.

This is what worked for me. Just dont over-tighten them because they thread into plastic. There is a video on yt to show how to get the door cards off:

I scratched my truck in the same spot going up some local rocky, dirt hills. I let it sit with me for 2 weeks until I felt the need to get it repaired by some local paint shop for $400. I felt the same that I would be OK with it but I didn't like seeing it on a truck less than a year old.

I’m interested in doing this just to remove the ones that came on the truck with crappy fitment & are lifting near the cabin.

I have the TRD Cast Aluminum Running Boards and they're pretty nice. If I wasn't going to get sliders then I would definitely keep them. They are not cheap though. ~$1100. Edit: they're not bolted to the frame

I was looking into doing this. I've taken the door cards off and seen that they are held together with fasteners. If we can find the softex PN then I think it would be possible. Currently I can only find the PN for the entire door panel assembly which is MSRP $700+.

I’m leaning towards 5° for step up versatility. I use my 4runner’s sliders as a step and theyre 5°. Both look good though!

Been waiting for this but 5 foot bed only :cry:

I’d also like something like this. Similar to the previous gen OEM crossbars (but with more capacity)

Non-hybrid: 1. Wasn't available when I purchased mine 2. Reviews on hybrid didn't encourage me to wait for the increased power/mpg's at the increased cost 3. Long bed was a req't & TRD OR package was a req't so I couldn't have gotten one anyway (w/o going halo (+$11k))

Yup, I'm sure this was deemed high risk and therefore a no-go from a user adjustable settings perspective. However, I am wondering if this is something adjustable in an aftermarket tuner like Carista. I'm not looking to turn the warning off. Mostly, The "13 seconds" sparked my interest & was...

Anyone aware if there's a way to increase the interval of time between the "No Hands" warning while using dynamic cruise control? I always have my hand(s) on the wheel however I don't often need to correct the trajectory of the truck since it is driving itself well enough. This will make the...

I’m thinking I’ll go wescott over oem for my LB so that I can also use them as a step. The OEM ones look too recessed to use as a step.

I’ve been running 89 for all ~5k miles. Mpg‘s have averaged out at 19.5mpg in that interval with my commute being about 60/40 (hilly) highway/city 70mph cruising speed. Probably will continue running 89 for the foreseeable future. I haven’t done any math on this. I‘d like to see someone try...

The lack of info around the “hardware kit” is the reason I haven’t purchased these myself

TRD OR DCLB. 4200 miles. Coming from 1998 4Runner. 315k miles. Disclaimer: I love this truck & I love my 4Runner as well. Favs: -Drivetrain is smooth & torque-y. -360 cam is great for long bed parking. -Active cruise is great for commute & road trips. -Power tail gate. I would have never...