5 amp switch for 4 amp lights ?

[tacorancher]

Hey y’all - I’ve wired up two rigid 360 ditch lights rated at 2 amps each to my five amp (auxiliary three) switch. I’ve read online that you need to have a healthy margin of error. Am I pushing it with 4 amps going to the five amp switch and is the wire thick enough in terms of gauge? I’m a little paranoid … should I should just switch it to the 10 amp? If so, I wonder what this five amp switch could be used for then?

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[theDLR]

To be safer with any kind of need of additional electrical installation, lights, winches, etc. best to run the load using a relay. So in actuality your switch isn't taking the load from the light, but rather your switch is activating the relay, which then closes the LED lighting circuit, which is wired to your battery w/ an inline fuse, and ground going to ground.

This way, you won't overload your switch, and your wire even say 18ga can be used for the switch. For your lights, those I'd wire up on 12ga. But to be more accurate, if 12ga is sufficient, we'd also need to know how many lights and total wattage / amps that load will need. Those numbers above can easily change based off distance from the power source (length of the wire)or on how much power those lights need.

 

[tacorancher]

To be safer with any kind of need of additional electrical installation, lights, winches, etc. best to run the load using a relay. So in actuality your switch isn't taking the load from the light, but rather your switch is activating the relay, which then closes the LED lighting circuit, which is wired to your battery w/ an inline fuse, and ground going to ground.

This way, you won't overload your switch, and your wire even say 18ga can be used for the switch. For your lights, those I'd wire up on 12ga. But to be more accurate, if 12ga is sufficient, we'd also need to know how many lights and total wattage / amps that load will need. Those numbers above can easily change based off distance from the power source (length of the wire)or on how much power those lights need.

I assume I can access the battery terminals from under the hood?

 

[theDLR]

I assume I can access the battery terminals from under the hood?

Yes, through the firewall. And if you're planning any other future electrical addons, I'd recommend in something like this (which is just another add on fuse box with relays, pre-wired):

https://www.amazon.com/RVBOATPAT-Pre-Wired-Waterproof-Relays-Automotive/dp/B0DBG1BVL8/


So your switch would go to one of those relays, and your light would go on the load/contact circuit of the chosen relay.

The whole fuse box is the one then that gets connected to your battery.

 

[grwil67]

I do like the relay doing the work as well, and do so that way myself most times, but not necessary if your switch is big enough and you can keep it simple.
Just need to make sure you fuse the power correctly as close to the battery possible to prevent possible fire.
If both lights pull 4 amps combined, your fuse should be 5amp, as rule of thumb is 125% of your load.
I would personally use #16 wire as it is good for up to 10amps which is more than double your load, which is why most common wire size for vehicles is 16 or smaller.
The reason I steer away from larger wire is another can of worms with safety.
So, if you have a 10amp switch powered with a 5amp fuse and s minimum of #16 wire you are good to go.

 

[Richardb106]

My caliraised ditch lights are 4amp and I've wired em to the 5 amp switch and I have had no issues and its been over a year now.

 

[Wife bought my 24 TRD]

Yes, through the firewall. And if you're planning any other future electrical addons, I'd recommend in something like this (which is just another add on fuse box with relays, pre-wired):

https://www.amazon.com/RVBOATPAT-Pre-Wired-Waterproof-Relays-Automotive/dp/B0DBG1BVL8/


So your switch would go to one of those relays, and your light would go on the load/contact circuit of the chosen relay.

The whole fuse box is the one then that gets connected to your battery.

Distribution box

 

[tacorancher]

I do like the relay doing the work as well, and do so that way myself most times, but not necessary if your switch is big enough and you can keep it simple.
Just need to make sure you fuse the power correctly as close to the battery possible to prevent possible fire.
If both lights pull 4 amps combined, your fuse should be 5amp, as rule of thumb is 125% of your load.
I would personally use #16 wire as it is good for up to 10amps which is more than double your load, which is why most common wire size for vehicles is 16 or smaller.
The reason I steer away from larger wire is another can of worms with safety.
So, if you have a 10amp switch powered with a 5amp fuse and s minimum of #16 wire you are good to go.

Gotcha … I’ll need to check my aux 2 wire gauge then — does anyone know what is is on the 2024s?

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