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Off to another project, yet again. I picked up a pair of Heretic 2-LED pod lights and wanted to hook them up as reverse lights. So I had to devise a mounting strategy... My initial thought was to prototype some mounts on my printer and then make them out of metal, but to be honest, using some...

Can't think of anything at the moment but I'll have to take a raincheck, hah!

Do you know what the weight is on the decked system? Sweet setup!

Nice man, definitely gonna take a go at this. PETG though... my own worst enemy haha. I've still got some PA6-CF, I'll give it a whirl. Thanks for the contribution!

It's a sweet cover. Especially the one with the built in tracks. Surprised you went with it even though you're in NY? I was considering one of these for a bit but just heard mixed reviews on winter performance.

Due to my upcoming roadtrip to Moab next week, I needed to get some storage capabilities on top of the cab. I really wanted a Yakima or Thule fixpoint system but they are not available yet - hence I decided to go with a full rack. I honestly didn't care much for what I got, as I'll eventually...

I didn't post the file with the intent of people not making / using it :) You're more than welcome to use it to make your own brackets.

Plausible, but doesn't explain why it only happens in certain gears or certain speeds. Maybe some harmonics going on here and it only resonates at a specific shaft or engine RPM. Only real way to find out what could be causing this is for the dealership to drop the trans and take a look. I would...

Yeah I mean honestly - trucks under warranty and if the problem is easily reproducible then it's the dealer's issue to figure out. When pressing the pedal, the fork pulls back the pressure plate via the throwout bearing and prevents the clutch from making contact with the flywheel. A bad...

Weird. So you're saying it grinds when you press down on the clutch - not when you're actually putting it into gear? Bit confused. If the grinding is only happening when the clutch is depressed.... throwout bearing possibly? Doesn't make a lot of sense tbh.

Price drop to $130. Also not shown in the pictures - but I found and will include the 2x "plugs" that cover the holes for the front plate.

Ah that looks nice. Not as much as a gritty texture as the Plasti-dip. I'm always worried about the longevity of these solutions but I guess if push comes to shove we can always respray the part.

Zero issues with the Lomax tri-fold. I've had it for about 4 months now.

Maybe an issue with the synchros? Does it happen if you try double clutching?

Got around to finally getting the tailgate done. I originally had vinyl wrapped my tailgate handle but was not pleased with the result - it was really hard to get the vinyl to stick into the letter indentations. So for now, I just figured I'd plasti-dip it. Honestly looks better than expected...

Bit the bullet and got the Timbrens as well (SES). We'll see how well they do for the 2700 mile roundtrip to Moab next month. I'll have approx 535 on the tongue and around 800lbs of passengers and gear, so about 80% of rated payload of my truck (1590). Should be a good test.

Oh and as far as your connector, you'll just need a 2-pin DT connector to splice into the pigtail Toyota includes with the aux switches. If you're buying a DT pigtail just make sure you get 14AWG copper to handle the amperage.

Only thing I can say is crank the bed as high as you can go. ABS can be tricky to print without an enclosed chamber as if it cools too quick it will have a tendency to warp. Consider using a glue stick as well to promote adhesion. Also since your printer isn't enclosed or filtered, move it to...

Heh, it's not really too good to be true. It's amazing how much you can save if you're not paying someone's marketing overhead. Nonetheless, I'd recommend a high-temp filament. ABS works fine but you could also use PA6 or ASA. I wouldn't recommend PLA. For the brackets, I do recommend metal...

It doesn't. If you've got a 3D printer, I have the file posted in a different thread.