3 oil changes in first 10,000 miles. Oil Analysis lab results attached.

[izzy]

That is what I find interesting. We know that TGMO is manufactured by Mobil however Toyota specifies a different formulation including the Moly type. I'm sure if they wanted to specify what is in the Mobil 1 they would/could get that but they don't. Their other additives +/or ratios are also different which leads me to believe they've formulated it to be very specific to Toyota engines. Maybe the composition of the aluminum and steel in the engines? Who knows? I have read that TGMO has a much higher viscosity index so it stays thicker at higher temps while being thinner at lower temps than other 0W20 synthetics. As someone pointed out, with 3000-5000 mi changes this probably does not make too much of a difference but with the low parts counter price of TGMO I think that I'm going to stick with that. I'll update here and we can all compare ~200,000 miles from now!

Yeah I'm sticking with TGMO @ 5k intervals. Warrantied till 125k so let's see if it gets there

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[OldmanTaco]

Me personally, I would never run 20 weight in any thing especially in a turbo truck. Been an oil buff my whole life and been debating oil issues for 40 years. 20 weight is for MPG and if everything is 100% correct and if using spec oil (Toyota very good) there are no real issues (except at high miles) on 20 weight. Problem is 95% of America qualifies for sever driving, uses the cheapest oil and pushes the drain limits way past spec. Turbo are especially sensitive to non-synthetic oil and to be clear there is zero or near zero 100% PAO base stock oil in the USofA. For most debates the point is moot, but for hot turbo shaft PAO (synthetic base) stands up to heat soak better than any highly refined dyno lube (what we call synthetic). I run a quality "full synthetic" 30 weight of some sort . I like Mobil once and don't really like syntec as Castrol oil started the whole refined dino oil = synthetic scam in the 70s, but would agree that syntec gold is a pretty good oil, Royal Purple, IDMSU, Amsoil and the like. All my cars are performance builds (too many to list), my turck is stock except for the home mod CAI, my home made Flowmaster delta 44 muffler exhaust and my Camtune, and soon my 6th element intercooler.... and...

 

[TimC.]

I have a 2013 Honda Accord with 227,000 miles on it, and you guessed it, 0w-20 it's whole life. Its still rolling and rolling well. 0W-20 is also for HP. Turbo or not, just change it and have it tested. I do every single time because I live near most of the race teams. My Tacoma's oil has been in grade every single time, particle count, oxidation value, fuel dilution ect all in spec. I have seen absolutely zero negative data points.

 

[BLtheP]

I have a 2013 Honda Accord with 227,000 miles on it, and you guessed it, 0w-20 it's whole life. Its still rolling and rolling well. 0W-20 is also for HP. Turbo or not, just change it and have it tested. I do every single time because I live near most of the race teams. My Tacoma's oil has been in grade every single time, particle count, oxidation value, fuel dilution ect all in spec. I have seen absolutely zero negative data points.

Oh my goodness…amazing. Doesn’t mean everybody else always has the same results.

Is this $20 per quart 0W-20?

 

[TimC.]

Nope, Honda 0W-20. Tacoma uses Driven 0W-20 and yes, $16 a quart.

 

[32spoke]

Nope, Honda 0W-20. Tacoma uses Driven 0W-20 and yes, $16 a quart.

Glad you have it figured out…

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