5w-30

[shackley]

I use Pennzoil Ultra Platinum 0w20 and have run used oil analysis showing minimal (below average) levels of wear metals. I live where it gets to -40C regularly for 7 months of the year so a thinner oil suits my use case better. Starting an engine with 5w30 in those temperatures results in no protection from the oil at startup, as it is well below its pour point. I am at 60k and my truck does not burn a drop of oil. I change at 5000km intervals and have not noticed significant fuel dilution (UOA says less than 0.5%). Now, if I lived in the south and never experienced below freezing temperatures, I would probably switch to 5w30. It all depends on use case...

I don't, but here in New Mexico (I live at 5500' in elevation) most use 0W20 in the winter and 5W30 in the summer. We do get to 100 degrees F in the summer, most days in the 90s. In my Trailhunter and previously in my Gladiator I used 0W20 as recommended by both Jeep and Toyota.

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[shackley]

This thread is basically the "how often should I change my oil" thread.

What is it about oil that people lose their minds lol

Note the beating a dead horse gif above.

 

[BLtheP]

I seen a short video of his, he says modern vehicles have computer controlled oil pumps. The oil flow is tuned to the oil the manufacture recommends for that vehicle. If you want to risk that putting a higher weight oil not having the correct oil flow is up to you.

Modern vehicles do have computer controlled oil pumps, they are called variable stage oil pumps. Our engines have them, as do the exact same engines overseas that get the 0W-20 to 10W-30 recommendation. All that happens with a variable stage pump is the ECM commands the pump to open up which reroutes some of the picked up oil back into the oil pan so that the pump provides a maximum target oil pressure to the engine. Once the ECM sees the pressure it wants to see, it stops commanding the pump and leaves it where it is.

What CCN states is that the variable stage oil pumps are "calibrated" for the oil viscosity in the owner's manual. That is not correct. The ECM is "calibrated" to open up the flow enough to cap the pump output once the oil reaches a target FSM-specified pressure. It is capable of doing that on any grade oil. It will do that job just fine on 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, etc. The ECM will just keep opening up the pump until pressure is where it wants to see it (aka 28 psi at 1000 rpm, 51 psi at 2000 rpm, 57 psi at 3000 rpm). There is nothing to calibrate and there's no calibration being compromised by using a thicker viscosity.

The CCN is a fine technician, but he is really talking outside his expertise with this stuff. He knows how to fix things, no doubt about it, but he doesn't seem to understand the actual engineering behind certain designs very well. I have noted a number of times where statements he made are just flat out wrong. I still somewhat enjoy his content, and mostly look past those incorrect comments because I enjoy the technical repair experience he brings to the table. If I was someone needing automotive work done and lived nearby, he would be the guy to work on my stuff if he had the availability in his schedule. But he really shouldn't be lecturing about oil, because he simply doesn't appear to know what he's talking about (but speaks with the authority as if he does).

 

[shackley]

I never, ever, for one second considered a Toyota motor might not make it to 60k miles. If that was an issue for me than I would have never purchased it. Even if something did go sideways I'm not concerned that my 30w will void my warranty.

What I am concerned about is running a 20w and then add in the typical fuel dilution and your not even close to 0-20. If your okay running a lighter oil because Toyota is more concerned about their CAFE standards and if you're okay with that because the manual tells you too then good luck to you. Sincerely

I don't think we in NM need to worry about dilution too much. My oil temp gets up pretty fast. If I was driving only a couple miles daily, I'd worry then. For those living up north, it might be an issue.

 

[GSPHerder]

Note the beating a dead horse gif above.

It can be or we can share analysis's and ideas, and everyone who agrees with you can agree to skip the thread.

 

[glk21c]

Modern vehicles do have computer controlled oil pumps, they are called variable stage oil pumps. Our engines have them, as do the exact same engines overseas that get the 0W-20 to 10W-30 recommendation. All that happens with a variable stage pump is the ECM commands the pump to open up which reroutes some of the picked up oil back into the oil pan so that the pump provides a maximum target oil pressure to the engine. Once the ECM sees the pressure it wants to see, it stops commanding the pump and leaves it where it is.

What CCN states is that the variable stage oil pumps are "calibrated" for the oil viscosity in the owner's manual. That is not correct. The ECM is "calibrated" to open up the flow enough to cap the pump output once the oil reaches a target FSM-specified pressure. It is capable of doing that on any grade oil. It will do that job just fine on 5W-30, 10W-30, 5W-40, etc. The ECM will just keep opening up the pump until pressure is where it wants to see it (aka 28 psi at 1000 rpm, 51 psi at 2000 rpm, 57 psi at 3000 rpm). There is nothing to calibrate and there's no calibration being compromised by using a thicker viscosity.

The CCN is a fine technician, but he is really talking outside his expertise with this stuff. He knows how to fix things, no doubt about it, but he doesn't seem to understand the actual engineering behind certain designs very well. I have noted a number of times where statements he made are just flat out wrong. I still somewhat enjoy his content, and mostly look past those incorrect comments because I enjoy the technical repair experience he brings to the table. If I was someone needing automotive work done and lived nearby, he would be the guy to work on my stuff if he had the availability in his schedule. But he really shouldn't be lecturing about oil, because he simply doesn't appear to know what he's talking about (but speaks with the authority as if he does).

Thank you so much. I’ve been waiting for an answer on how that variable speed oil pump works in the modern Toyota engines. Thank you again.

 

[Miqie]

The best compromise for those that have winters..............5W-30 in summer, 0W-20 in winter. Best of both worlds.

 

[MustardTiger]

The best compromise for those that have winters..............5W-30 in summer, 0W-20 in winter. Best of both worlds.

Sure, one can do that. Except the fuel dilution issue (for me, anyways) is concerning, and is most prevalent in the winter. So I’m sticking with 5w30 year round. If my engine grenades, I’ll make a lil’ post about it

 

[yerkool]

I understand you guys reasoning and appreciate, I however don't trust the manufacture to be honest with us no matter the long term consequences to owners post 60k.

My reasoning is, even a ford can do 60k miles (most of the time). I'm more concerned with after the 60k because generally speaking it goes pretty fast. So even if you didn't void warranties by using 0-20 until 60k my question mostly is what are we sacrificing post 60k. Oil analysis's would help to decide.

Some have reported oil dilution with fuel with analysis using 0-20 which dilutes the viscosity even more.

I'll do the switch and post oil analysis's. Wish me luck.

Toyota is only doing it for CAFE to be able to sell to North American continent.

same engine the rest of the world is 5W-30.
What amazes me is you get no warranty for putting a better oil protection , but you don’t get penalties for changing oil earlier while they tell you in the manual the OCI should be 10k miles?
It’s so designed to keep the masses in debt
By the engine breaking down due to long oil change Intervals. Pretty stupid to me.

 

[TimC.]

There is a lot of folks here relying on feelings and I think decisions. I was in your camp not long ago. 0w-20 is better than you think especially sheering and oxidation value. The key is to switch to a brand that has the best additive package, such as Driven 0W-20. There is too much here to write but thank Richard Childress racing, NASCAR, for the 0W-20 results. This grade was first in NASCAR before the consumer. It was in the race car for a reason. I can assure you will never abuse the engine like that. Do your research, I'm a oil analysis geek who lives around auto racing. Check out Lake Speed's education on YouTube. I highly recommend you break in the motor with Toyota 0W-20 which is mobil 1 then switch to Driven 0W-20.

 

[TrailAdventurer]

Borders on being a NERPT after a while.

I’ve been digging into the documentation on this a bit, including the Tacoma manual and how Toyota specs the same engine globally.

First, the official Tacoma spec (North America):

• Oil standard: ILSAC GF-6A
• Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20

From the 2025 Tacoma owner’s manual:

“ILSAC GF-6A multigrade engine oil. Recommended viscosity: SAE 0W-20.”
[my owner's manual]

It also says:

“SAE 0W-20 is the best choice for good fuel economy and cold starting. If SAE 0W-20 is not available, SAE 5W-20 may be used.”

So for warranty purposes in the U.S., 0W-20 is clearly the baseline spec.

That said, it’s also worth remembering a couple of things about this engine.

The Tacoma uses the T24A-FTS 2.4L turbo, which Toyota also uses in vehicles like the Lexus NX350, RX350, Crown, and others. Outside North America, Toyota manuals for engines in this family often show temperature-based viscosity charts where 0W-30 or 5W-30 are allowed depending on climate. In other words, the engine itself isn’t inherently limited to one viscosity; the regional manuals tend to emphasize what works best for their regulatory environment and expected temperatures.

A couple practical observations:

• 0W-20 flows better at cold start, which is where the majority of engine wear occurs.
• 5W-30 provides a thicker film at operating temperature, which some people prefer for sustained high-temperature operation, towing, or hotter climates.
• Both oils can meet the same API SP / GF-6 performance standards, so the difference is viscosity, not base quality.

Personally, I’m leaning toward a pretty simple approach given where I live:

• 0W-20 in winter
• 5W-30 in the warmer months

Cold starts here matter, and the thinner oil helps there. In summer when oil temps run higher, the slightly thicker oil doesn’t bother me.

There are numerous pictorial representations of the Toyota oil charge--including in tacoma4g.com (dec '24). But here's a textual version:

Typical Toyota Engine Oil Viscosity vs Temperature Range

Viscosity	Approximate Ambient Temperature Range
0W-20	−30°C to +30°C (−22°F to +86°F)
5W-20	−20°C to +30°C (−4°F to +86°F)
0W-30	−30°C to +40°C (−22°F to +104°F)
5W-30	−20°C to +40°C (−4°F to +104°F)
10W-30	−10°C to +40°C (+14°F to +104°F)

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