Leveling kit issues NEED HELP

[tna]

I’m installing a ready lift 1.5 inch leveling kit on my 4G Tacoma ORD. Go easy one me (full suspension lift will come soon for now. This is the budget friendly lift.) I installed the passenger side no issue everything went smoothly but now working on the driver side and everything is bind it up first step is to remove the swaybar link bolt and that won’t even come out as that’s binding up. I’m not a mechanic, but I can get around working on a vehicle. Just want to see if anybody has any suggestions as the first half passenger side is installed and bolted down again with the spacer and having issues on the driver side. Where do I go from here?

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[EatMyTaco]

Is it the bolt won’t come out of the hole, or the nut won’t come off the bolt?

is the tire off and it’s on jack stands?

 

[tna]

The bolt to the swaybar link is about halfway out. It’s bound up.. the nut for the strut bolt came out about halfway. I can hammer it in halfway, but it doesn’t come out that one seems it’s bound up as well.

 

[EatMyTaco]

The bolt to the swaybar link is about halfway out. It’s bound up.. the nut for the strut bolt came out about halfway. I can hammer it in halfway, but it doesn’t come out that one seems it’s bound up as well.

Is the vehicle on Jack stands? With the axle at full droop and no tire?

 

[tna]

Is the vehicle on Jack stands? With the axle at full droop and no tire?

It’s jacked in the front center jack point on the front skid plate and supported by jack stands behind tires in frame under cab

 

[EatMyTaco]

.

It’s jacked in the front center jack point on the front skid plate and supported by jack stands behind tires in frame under cab

good. Make sure it’s not going to roll.

use the jack to jack up the axle you’re going to put the new spacer on, such that it’s just a little less than it would be if the tire was on and it was sitting on the ground. Don’t lift truck off the jackstands. Try to remove bolt again.

 

[tna]

Jacked both sides and still in a bind.

 

[EatMyTaco]

Jacked both sides and still in a bind.

Just the side you’re trying to remove. You’re trying to un-pinch the bolt. Best when the swaybar is closest to the same as the mount.

id start by letting the side you already put the spacer on back down. Watch the swaybar compared to the mount and find the spot where it’s as ligned up as it can be. You wont want any tension on it.

 

[EatMyTaco]

If you have a cylindrical pry bar or something else round with a taper end that you can push through the side the bolt isn’t coming through and wedge the link’s hole parallel with the bolt, that would be what I’d try next.

 

[1162YUT]

For the record this happens because you did not free up the entire sway bar and reconnect it last both sides together. You do not need to jack up the truck to rectify this. Either use a pry bar and relieve the bolt either up or down depending on the bind. Or jack up the truck loosen the passenger side UCA ball joint than go over to the other side and remove bolt. I'd recommend after disconnecting the UCA to remove both end links and reconnect after all the work is done.

As always be safe and chalk block and set e brake before any work 2ndary back up jack stands are always a good opt gives you a sec or 2 to jump out of the way in case it drops.

Have fun

 

[tna]

Man managed to get everything else disconnected but the damn sway bar is still bound up and won’t let the drivers side LCA drop. The sway bar link is disconnected from the passenger side but I have the UCA AND LCA loosened. Tried the jack in different positions and heights. Prybar and bagging the LCA down to loosen but what gives??

would it be easier to unbolt the entire sway bar then reattach?

 

[MT-Taco]

With the front in the air, place a jack under the LCA and jack it up slowly you’ll see the arm move up and the sway bar should lineup with the bolt/hole and release the pressure. Usually getting them back in is the hard part . Does yours have the sway bar disconnect? If yes just disconnect it makes it much easier.

 

[StreeTaco]

That bolt sleeve is jammed between the two holes. No amount of jacking will unstick it. Thinking try to pry the metal down on the right side to release the sleeve from the hole and then bend it back when it’s time to tighten all the bolts. Or pry the sleeve up on the right side to release it, but without tearing the rubber isolator bushing.

 

[NoSlushbox4Me]

If it was mine and I wasn't positive if there was still load on the bolt, I'd consider spraying some silicone lube around the bolt edges from both ends to reduce friction. Then I would turn the bolt in the loosening direction with a ratchet to see if the bolt threads would grab and walk the bolt further out. If that didn't work to get the bolt out, I would use a 6" long flat face steel punch and a hammer to tap on the center of the nut end of the bolt to see if the bolt would move further out. If it moved, I would alternate the ratchet and the punch several times, and occasionally spray more lube, until the bolt was out. If the bolt is under tension, things may move suddenly when the bolt comes out. However the punch will take the place of the bolt and limit how far things move. It will also be easier to see when the punch is unloaded (by jacking) because it's smaller diameter than the bolt and sloppier in the holes.

 

[tna]

Thanks guys! Was able to finally get it loose with a little persuasion from pry bars. Hopefully no hiccups from here

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