Long term solutions for noisy aftermarket suspension components ?

[TacoBirdinNW]

Got some King extended end links because they are highly regarded, but within 1500 miles a com10 bearing went out and it was insanely creaky.

Replaced that and the creaking is gone, but I do get a lot of squeaks with suspension movement from the end links.
When I was getting a bearing through the warranty process one of the many comments from King was "Buy race parts, get race noises." So this leads me to believe it's par for the course with these types of components. I've read on some other forums that folks end up replacing these bearings fairly regularly on their aftermarket shocks and struts as well.
I've tried graphite lube and it works, but not for long. Any other solutions ? Or is this just how it is with these types of suspension components ? What's your experience been ?

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[Will721]

While I don't personally have any of these components, I've been doing alot of research into suspension kits and options for these trucks. From my understanding the consensus for your problem, is just keep spending money. Race parts aren't designed for comfort, noise, or longevity. King builds those parts for strength only and so do the other companies using those styles of joint. You have to remember what they were developed for, racing at high speed across the desert and in stadiums for very short distances (relatively). 500-1000 miles is all the trucks those parts were designed for go per race at max. Then they're torn down, rebuilt, and go again.

Its actually one of the main arguments why other companies chose to still use rubber bushings and high angle ball joints rather than uniball, or heims. FYI, thats why other shock manufacturers use anodized aluminum instead of steel shock bodies (for rust). All reasons why even though they're almost unanimously agreed upon as the "best" suspension components, I won't be using them on my truck.

 

[TacoBirdinNW]

While I don't personally have any of these components, I've been doing alot of research into suspension kits and options for these trucks. From my understanding the consensus for your problem, is just keep spending money. Race parts aren't designed for comfort, noise, or longevity. King builds those parts for strength only and so do the other companies using those styles of joint. You have to remember what they were developed for, racing at high speed across the desert and in stadiums for very short distances (relatively). 500-1000 miles is all the trucks those parts were designed for go per race at max. Then they're torn down, rebuilt, and go again.

Its actually one of the main arguments why other companies chose to still use rubber bushings and high angle ball joints rather than uniball, or heims. FYI, thats why other shock manufacturers use anodized aluminum instead of steel shock bodies (for rust). All reasons why even though they're almost unanimously agreed upon as the "best" suspension components, I won't be using them on my truck.

All checks out and not points I had not considered when dreaming about high end suspension kits. I'm really a suspension newbie. I had a ProComp lift + Rough country shocks on my last truck and they were fine and quiet lol
At least these end links were a cheap way to learn about this style of joint. Probably going to swap out to the extended Dobinsons eventually.

 

[Robb_D]

Having used Fox and King, my buddy at fox taught me to use a white lithium spray grease on the pivot ball, work through the pivot and wipe off all excess. Then clean and repeat every oil change. It kept my truck silent much longer! I also used a 1.5 to 3mm thick O-Ring on the face of the link around the ball (front shocks) to help keep grime out.
With regular cleaning and lubrication I've gotten them to last 30k-40k with minimal noise. Without maintenance it's a very short noise free life.
But yes, use race parts get race wear and noise.

 

[TacoBirdinNW]

Having used Fox and King, my buddy at fox taught me to use a white lithium spray grease on the pivot ball, work through the pivot and wipe off all access. Then clean and repeat every oil change. It kept my truck silent much longer! I also used a 1.5 to 3mm thick O-Ring on the face of the link around the ball (front shocks) to help keep grime out.
With regular cleaning and lubrication I've gotten them to last 30k-40k with minimal noise. Without maintenance it's a very short noise free life.
But yes, use race parts get race wear and noise.

Will try this ! Thanks dude.

 

[TacoBirdinNW]

Having used Fox and King, my buddy at fox taught me to use a white lithium spray grease on the pivot ball, work through the pivot and wipe off all excess. Then clean and repeat every oil change. It kept my truck silent much longer! I also used a 1.5 to 3mm thick O-Ring on the face of the link around the ball (front shocks) to help keep grime out.
With regular cleaning and lubrication I've gotten them to last 30k-40k with minimal noise. Without maintenance it's a very short noise free life.
But yes, use race parts get race wear and noise.

Ordered some lithium grease and 12mm ID / 3mm rubber washers. I'll see if the grease does the truck first. Thanks man

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