Meh. Zero specs on the amp, except that itās class GD. Not a bad thing, Helix is GD as well. But a barely functional website with pictures and no specs, and given whoās selling it, Iāll pass, thanks.
Honestly, I would use the door speaker as a single run, and yes, run my own to the dash and tweeters. It would give me an excuse to really tear into the truck with some deadener and MLV⦠the MPG killers. I know the doors molex plug style connectors, so no messing about there, but new dash and...
DONāT ⦠DO NOT buy the hideaway sub. Those things are trash. Minimal output, buzzing, piles of disappointment.
Youāre happy with the sound as is, right? Save some more and go the next step right. 5-channel amp, sub and proper box. Itās more money, sure, but you donāt want to be replacing...
So, as an update to this, I gave up on the Dongar adapter. Ordered a VIOFO HK4 hardwire kit for my cameras. Followed the instructions from the second post in this thread, and BOOM!!, parking mode activated. So frustrating to try and have this work with the Dongar, only to have really mixed...
I think a lot of the ā10,000 mi oil changeā rhetoric from the manufacturers has to do with ācost of ownershipā. Look at C&D or Consumer Reports and thatās a factor in determining vehicle quality.
Letās ruin an engine so we can save $1500 in the first 10 years of ownership.
Iām liking all the suggestions everyone. I figured being so small, Iād need an exact fit, thankfully, looks like I was wrong. :thumbsup:
Virtual beers for everyone!!
Iām looking for a new filter wrench for the thimble of a filter on our trucks. My band-style is too big for this little guy, and I had a devil of a time getting the old filter off by hand. One Iām looking at is this style, but I need to know the diameter of the filter, so I get the correct...
for the non-JBL system, you need to tap the front midbass wires going to the door speaker. As you may or may not know, Toyota gimped the rear speaker outputs so bad they may as well have not put them in.
Pulled the A-Pillar. Itās the only way to get access to the wiring that runs behind the airbag, to zip tie the camera wire to, and the hole near the front of the dash, to feed the wire through to get it to the rear. The dash is the hardest part. Getting to the back window after that is a breeze.
Thatās an interesting theory. Iāll pay more attention to IF my camera goes into parking mode in high motion situations. I know it does in my garage (of course), but you may have stumbled onto something here.
Not sure what to say next. Youāre describing my functionality exactly. Iām just trying it again right now, but in ātimedā I get the green flash as well. So I donāt think itās the A->C adapter, the cable or even the Dongar.
How are you making menu selections with the camera, app or in camera? I...
K, going to sound like a stupid question, sorry.
Is your dongar adapter switch in the middle position? When you go from truck running (red) to off (green), does it do that? Because if itās not, thereās no point in trying other stuff.
The only difference in our settings, is that I have it set to start a timer 90sec after ignition off.
I wonder if itās your A->C adapter. Is it data or just generic?
Every time Iāve checked it, yes. It takes anywhere from 5-10 min to kick in, but it does kick in. What are your parking settings? I have mine to start after 90sec, and auto-event recording.
Iāve been considering these for my truck, and I think I know why youāre having issue with the power port door. My BakFlip cover doesnāt drop the OEM rail at all, it sits just above. In that case, my door will open up fully, because I will have gained 1 inch in height.