Trailhunter with 35s Rubbing (Need Help)

[alairmore]

I just installed Method 703s 17x8.5 +35 offset with Falken Wildpeaks AT4W 35x11.5 R17. The driver's side tire is rubbing on a bracket when at full lock, and I hit a dip or press the brakes hard. Has anyone experienced this, and what was your solution?

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[HarryDaHamster]

That’s a terrible offset for the Trailhunter. Stock is 8.5” wide +20. That sits further in your wheel well

 

[alairmore]

Interesting this is the first time I’ve heard any say +35 offset is terrible.

 

[Droid]

I'm running somewhat of a similar setup but with a slightly smaller tire and have not experienced this even doing higher speed offroad stuff (e.g. dirt roads similar to what you'd see on Saddleback at 30-40mph).

My truck is a TRD Offroad with the OEM lift (i.e has TH ride height and control arms). Also on 703 17x8.5 / 35 offset.

Your tires are 35x11.9, mine are 33.9x11.3 (Toyo AT3, 285/75R17). So about .55" less radius and extending toward the frame .3" less. But looking at mine full lock I thought I cleared everything with more than this much room to spare. I'll have to go look at that bracket again as I don't even remember it, maybe I'm closer there than I think.

I would think +35 on a TH would be the correct offset. From what I've seen folks running numerically lower offset than this start rubbing sooner.

One other data point that doesn't make any sense here.... These guys had no problem getting the OEM lift and 33.9x11.3 tires to clear on +55mm offset 17x8 wheels:


^ Those should be putting the sidewall a lot closer to the frame than you are.

How hard is it rubbing? I wouldn't worry if it's minor. Will it do it in a "static" condition or only if the tire is momentarily flexing into it due to the braking/impact?

I imagine an alignment from an offroad shop *might* cure it but honestly don't know much about that.

I did always think that hard impacts at full lock are generally best avoided (but not certain that's a real issue). I just figure steering could be slamming against the stops from the impact.

Take this all with a grain of salt, I'm not an expert, just my own observations/experience.

 

[FlyAngler]

I'm running the original wheels and offset, but...yes, check my build thread link in my sig. Same issue arose.

Short version, I removed the bracket and re-routed the wire over the frame. I had to do some other modifications to be sure I don't rub even while aired down. All in the thread. HTH!

 

[alairmore]

I'm running the original wheels and offset, but...yes, check my build thread link in my sig. Same issue arose.

Short version, I removed the bracket and re-routed the wire over the frame. I had to do some other modifications to be sure I don't rub even while aired down. All in the thread. HTH!

That's exactly what I was thinking of doing after removing the wheel and the bracket to find out what it even is. It's coming from the swaybar disconnect mechanism goes under the frame, then routes between the body. This bracket holds it against the frame and tries to protect it from rocks, I guess.

Why would Toyota route the wire under the frame??

@FlyAngler , is there enough wire length to route over the frame, or do you need to extend it somehow?

 

[Yotota]

Interesting this is the first time I’ve heard any say +35 offset is terrible.

35mm offset is great.....

On regular model Tacos, with tires less than ~33" OD and less than ~285mm wide. (My non-scientific approximation) ["Regular models" = non TRDPRO or Trailhunter]

Trailhunter OEM wheels are 18x8.5 +20mm offset. That's what provides the extra track width. Going narrower on a Trailhunter, especially with taller than stock tires, isn't the best idea.

 

[alairmore]

How hard is it rubbing? I wouldn't worry if it's minor. Will it do it in a "static" condition or only if the tire is momentarily flexing into it due to the braking/impact?

I imagine an alignment from an offroad shop *might* cure it but honestly don't know much about that.

I did always think that hard impacts at full lock are generally best avoided (but not certain that's a real issue). I just figure steering could be slamming against the stops from the impact.

Take this all with a grain of salt, I'm not an expert, just my own observations/experience.

I have not taken on a trail yet. I installed them last night. It only lightly rubs when at full lock and II hit a dip. I was driving around parking and intentionally ran over a dip at full lock to test clearance.

I will be looking to reroute it over the frame like FlyAngler suggested.

 

[FlyAngler]

@FlyAngler , is there enough wire length to route over the frame, or do you need to extend it somehow?

Yes, there is enough length. A little tight, but I've been running it like this for a while with no problem. Even on some difficult rock crawling flexing out with the sway bar disconnected it hasn't been a problem. Nice easy fix. I have no idea why the heck it is designed this way. Doesn't seem to be well thought-out on Toyota's part, but I'm no expert.

 

[HarryDaHamster]

Interesting this is the first time I’ve heard any say +35 offset is terrible.

Trailhunter and TRD Pro are 2” wider than the regular trim

35mm offset is great.....

Trailhunter OEM wheels are 18x8.5 +20mm offset. That's what provides the extra track width. Going narrower on a Trailhunter, especially with taller than stock tires, isn't the best idea.

It’s the complete opposite. The higher the offset number, the more sunken in the wheel is. +35 is further in the wheel well than a +20

 

[alairmore]

Trailhunter and TRD Pro are 2” wider than the regular trim



It’s the complete opposite. The higher the offset number, the more sunken in the wheel is. +35 is further in the wheel well than a +20

Agree, positive offset pulls the rim in closer to the frame, but in my case, using a lower offset, "+20" would not prevent the rubbing. The bracket is rubbing against the center of the tire, not the edge. I would need to push the wheel out a lot further than I would want to clear it that way, and then I would be rubbing on the fenders. A smaller tire, 34.5, would not rub at all.

As FlyAnger said, it's an easy fix, just delete the bracket and route the wire on top of the frame, how it should have been from the factory. Another option is to bend the bracket closer to the frame, as it sticks out way more than it needs to.

 

[Yotota]

It’s the complete opposite. The higher the offset number, the more sunken in the wheel is. +35 is further in the wheel well than a +20

Yes, we are saying the same thing. Or at least we are attempting to say the same thing.

 

[Airborne]

Hmm, im running 295-70-18 toyo tires, have a westcott level lift and trail hunter wheels , 20 offset on my TRD Offroad, hybrid……no issues, no rubbing and no issues lock to luck……

 

[alairmore]

Hmm, im running 295-70-18 toyo tires, have a westcott level lift and trail hunter wheels , 20 offset on my TRD Offroad, hybrid……no issues, no rubbing and no issues lock to luck……

That makes sense, 295-70-18 is 34.3 inch diameter. Im using 35x11.5R17 Falken WildPeaks AT4W.

Lessons learned: If you have a disconnecting swaybar, be prepared to reroute the wire over the frame and remove the bracket with tires larger than 34.5 inch.

 

[Airborne]

I also have factory SWBD on my truck

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