What fuse do you recommend me splitting off of for an in-cab GMRS radio?

[ixo]

I have a 2024 Hybrid OR.

Bought a Midland MXT275 in-cab GMRS handset. I looked at the fuse boxes in the engine bay, and on the passenger side, I see an empty "AUX NO.4" fuse slot that is unpopulated, but rated for 20A:

The slot itself:

I have AUX 1,2,3 switches in my cab (2 is ditchlights, 3 is the winch solenoid, 1 is unused - but may be something later). I wasn't aware AUX 4 was even a thing.

Would this be a good fuse slot to split one of these of from?

Thanks!

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[ixo]

Ah! I'm also seeing an interior fuse box under the glove? This may be the most ideal mounting spot.

Maybe Mirror Heater (an option I do not have) or one of the USBs?

Looks like it only pulls 1A during usage, and ~.2 while idle..?

 

[BoboForShort]

Hey, check out this thread on wiring a dash cam. This is the route I would recommend.

https://www.tacoma4g.com/forum/threads/dashcam-hardwire-w-o-fuse-box-almost-as-easy-as-dongar.9910/

 

[pinkertonfloyd]

I have a 2024 Hybrid OR.

Bought a Midland MXT275 in-cab GMRS handset. I looked at the fuse boxes in the engine bay, and on the passenger side, I see an empty "AUX NO.4" fuse slot that is unpopulated, but rated for 20A:

The slot itself:

I have AUX 1,2,3 switches in my cab (2 is ditchlights, 3 is the winch solenoid, 1 is unused - but may be something later). I wasn't aware AUX 4 was even a thing.

Would this be a good fuse slot to split one of these of from?

Thanks!

Ham Here, and I've done a few installs. I'd first recommend running directly to the battery if possible. (Not only safer, but less RFI when you go direct, fuse BOTH the positive and the negative/ground sides, as that protects from backfeed (protects the vehicle if the radio shorts out). But if not, that being a 15W radio, it only needs a 10A circuit (and really it'll be less than a 5A draw), so you'd be good with that circuit.

 

[ixo]

Awesome, thank you both! Will run the install likely today.

 

[Pappy]

A different idea.

Passenger side fuse block under the hood. The circuits marked in yellow are constant hot. Those not marked are switched off the "key." The two circles are 1/4" spade terminals you can run off ... fused to the load of course. I only marked two as an example since there are others to use. You can also see the fuse tap I installed on a vacant switched circuit (used to trigger a relay).

Note that any rating on the cover for any vacant circuits refers to the wire from the fuse to the uninstalled load. Not at the fuse. You can run any fuse you want (up to 30A), as long as you size the wire, and fuse, to your load appropriately.

On the firewall, behind the battery, is the grommet for the main harness. There is a nipple on it. Cut the tip off the nipple, and you can run wire through it into the cab.

 

[goin2drt]

There are open spots in the fuse box under the glovebox for switched and constant power. We used the 2 switched ones and one constant for the radar detector and dash can (dash cam requires both, detector is just switched). Easy as it gets.

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