Dirtbox Overland Canopy/Camper + Prinsu Rack

[Pappy]

My truck is getting built for a specific purpose. Extended camping/overlanding trips lasting +/- month where I won't be doing anything that requires the capability of my Gen1 4Runner. I still have that for Canyonlands and the like. Yes, the Tacoma will be capable, but not Moab capable.

I looked at just about every camper/canopy out there and came to the conclusion that the Dirtbox fit my needs the best. This will be an evolution. I've only had three shake down trips, and it will continue to evolve.

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[Pappy]

One of the issues I had was wind noise. Mostly in the space at the back window. I looked at several solutions ranging from some sort of a deflector on the camper, to a roof rack. After a bunch of research there only appeared to be two low profile roof rack solutions that might fit between the top of the cab and the camper. Front Runner, and Prinsu.

I talked with both companies, and neither could tell me for sure if it would fit. I went to Overland Expo a week ago and talked with both companies, and looked at what they offered. Prinsu happened to have a rack for the truck at the exhibit. Between the event discount, and no Oregon sales tax, I bought it. It was installed in camp with the assistance of a camp neighbor. Install of the rear bolts was a PITA with the camper.

It was tight, but fit. When I came home I pulled the rack and modified it under the camper to give more clearance. It not only significantly improved the wind noise, it appears my gas mileage went up a little bit. I now have a rack over the cab if I want to install something (gas?).

Before.

After.

 

[Pappy]

What I like.

• Solid build.
• Aesthetics. I think this is the nicest looking canopy/camper out there. I didn't like the straight sides of everybody else.
• Built in lighting, plus USB and 12V outlets, top and bottom.
• Pre-wired for third brake light and running lights. You need to wire them up.
• I get to keep the tailgate (lost with the Alucab).
• Lighting below, on the gull wings, and in the tent. See negative.
• The tent is dark. This is a positive and negative. Some folks like it dark, I don't. I include it as a positive since that seems to be a more popular desire.
• The optional molle box is nice. Because it's not straight walled on the sides it has more room than other models.
• T-track throughout, inside and out. Plus, L-track on the sides and top.
• The latches on the tent, and the gull wings are great.
• Customer service. They have been great. See negatives.
• They were in Denver. I drove it up and they installed it for free.

 

[Pappy]

Negatives.

• On my second shake down trip to Utah I noticed just about every fastener had come loose. I spent the time to tighten everything up in camp, and I'm hitting the screws with Loctite.
• The lights automatically dim. As in, turn on the light, it comes on, then dims. You then need to push a button on the light to turn back on. On the gull wings that is not a problem. In the tent, it's a problem. I'm working on a solution.
• The dust. While the camper is tight, the tailgate was absolutely not. The dust was insane on the first shake down. I found a tailgate seal kit and installed it. I'll give it a 8/10 because the bulb seal at the bottom of the tailgate is too thick. It's 1/2", and 3/8" would work better. I also added some foam weatherstrip to the bottom of the hatch. The tailgate kit helped keep the dust out.
• The tailgate on the Tacoma has a lip on it. That means the hatch on the camper can't be closed over the tailgate. The hatch needs to be closed first, then the gate. Like many other canopy/campers the idea is to access the tent from inside the bed. Unless you have the automatic tailgate (I don't) you would lock yourself in with no way to get out. I use a ladder like a conventional roof tent. That was the original plan so it didn't matter. Ladder and ladder hooks came from CVT.
• I've had some fading on anodized parts. One of the three L-tracks faded, and one of the arms on the tent latch faded. Dirtbox is sending me a replacement latch arm.
• On the optional awning I lost one of the screws that holds the legs to the arms. Dirtbox sent me a set of replacement screws. Unfortunately, they didn't match. Fortunately, they had potential and I thought they were a better idea. I was able to modify them, and I'm very pleased with the replacements.
• Like just about every other roof tent out there the mattress could be better. It's 2" of foam, and I use an air mattress on top of that.

Faded tent latch arm. Replacement inbound.

The awning screws. New screws on top, original screws on bottom. I needed to drill out the awning arm for the larger sleeve screw, and shorten the bolt from 30mm to ~26mm. Easy.

 

[Pappy]

Solar and battery.

• Zamp Solar 190W panel, mounted to crossbars on top of the camper. I have room for one more if I need/want it.
• Renogy 30A solar controller, with Bluetooth.
• 100Ah Li battery off Amazon, size group 24.
• 6-circuit Blue Sea fuse block.
• Powewerx 2A/4A/8A DC-DC charger.

Battery runs the Iceco 20L fridge, lighting, USB and 12V outlets in the camper, and water pump. The DC-DC charger is hooked up to the battery (ignition relayed) as a backup charger. So far I haven't needed it.

Zamp Solar 190W panel.

SAE input from the panel into the camper.

Renogy 30A controller with BT.

Battery, fuse block, and DC-DC charger.

 

[Pappy]

Suspension. I started out with a 1/4" spacer in the front (1/2" lift), and Dobinson 819V springs in the rear. While the 819V springs compensated for the weight of the camper and the rear bumper, I didn't get any lift. They were swapped out with 821V springs. I was still not happy, so I installed 1/2" spacers. I can live with it for now. I might need to go up another spring size.

I have Alldog springs in the front on factory struts. I'm happy with that combination. They did a good job compensating for the winch/bumper.

 

[Bravada]

Fantastic! I'm envious.

 

[Wife bought my 24 TRD]

One of the issues I had was wind noise. Mostly in the space at the back window. I looked at several solutions ranging from some sort of a deflector on the camper, to a roof rack. After a bunch of research there only appeared to be two low profile roof rack solutions that might fit between the top of the cab and the camper. Front Runner, and Prinsu.

I talked with both companies, and neither could tell me for sure if it would fit. I went to Overland Expo a week ago and talked with both companies, and looked at what they offered. Prinsu happened to have a rack for the truck at the exhibit. Between the event discount, and no Oregon sales tax, I bought it. It was installed in camp with the assistance of a camp neighbor. Install of the rear bolts was a PITA with the camper.

It was tight, but fit. When I came home I pulled the rack and modified it under the camper to give more clearance. It not only significantly improved the wind noise, it appears my gas mileage went up a little bit. I now have a rack over the cab if I want to install something (gas?).

Before.

After.

I have the Prinsu Pro cab rack and top racks on my SmartCap I know what you mean about wind noise.
I will tell you how I got rid of 80% of it if you have a sunroof.
Toyota didn't have a wind visor for the sunroof, but by chance the one I bought for my wife's 2024 Subaru Crosstrek Wilderness fits my 2024 perfectly. Best yet the wind noise is gone, plus you can open the sunroof and it is much quieter.

My truck is getting built for a specific purpose. Extended camping/overlanding trips lasting +/- month where I won't be doing anything that requires the capability of my Gen1 4Runner. I still have that for Canyonlands and the like. Yes, the Tacoma will be capable, but not Moab capable.

I looked at just about every camper/canopy out there and came to the conclusion that the Dirtbox fit my needs the best. This will be an evolution. I've only had three shake down trips, and it will continue to evolve.

 

[Pappy]

I will tell you how I got rid of 80% of it if you have a sunroof.

That is a slick trick. I don't have a sunroof, on purpose, so that wouldn't work for me.

 

[Wife bought my 24 TRD]

That is a slick trick. I don't have a sunroof, on purpose, so that wouldn't work for me.

Well I tried

 

[gofastdan]

What rear bumper/swing outs do you have? What are your thoughts (positives, negatives) on it?

 

[Wife bought my 24 TRD]

I'm waiting on backwoods to release their high clearance.Overland rear bumper to match the front high clearance rear bumper, with their hitch mounted dual swing or.
2nd choice would be DRT fabrication high clearance wrap around rear bumper, with backwards adventure hitch mounted duel swing.

 

[Pappy]

What rear bumper/swing outs do you have? What are your thoughts (positives, negatives) on it?

Victory 4x4.

Thoughts? Overall, now that the bumper is installed, I like it a whole bunch. Unfortunately, installation was not a smooth deal. Most issues were easy to resolve myself. The issues were:

1. Victory 4x4 sent me the wrong parts to mount the rear swing outs (too short), fussed with me about it, then admitted they messed up. They did make it right.

2. On the swing out is a stop plate. It's engineered to hold the swing-outs perpendicular to the side of the truck (i.e. out in traffic). That would not work for me. My solution was to drill a second hole where I wanted the swing-out. This way it sat parallel to the side of the truck along the tailgate, which is what you see in the pictures.

3. The counter-sunk screws that hold on the swing-out stop plates are ridiculously too short. A quick trip to Home Depot solved that issue. Longer screws made it easier to get the nuts started on the very blind back side.

4. The gas can carrier is designed to be mounted perpendicular to the swing out (shown in the pictures). I didn't like that idea, so with a little measuring, drilling, and new hardware I mounted it flat.

5. The swing-outs blocked the rear camera. I bought a second camera and tailgate harness, teased out the camera wires and remounted it to the license plate location on the bumper.

6. This was the largest issue. There is a top plate that ties the bumper together. NONE of the frame bolt holes lined up. I had to drill out the bumper to get the silly thing installed. I did see another individual also installed their bumper, and he didn't mention this issue so hopefully my bumper was a one-off.

Second hole on the swing-out stop plate.

Remounted gas can carrier.

Remounted camera.

 

[gofastdan]

Thanks. I agree with all your changes. Nicely done! I thought it looked like a Victory bumper but I didn't think they have been out that long so you must have gotten a very early production run.

The stop plate seems a little goofy the way it sticks out from the bumper. Maybe powder coating would make it a little less noticeable. Other than that I like everything about the combo. It's nice that you retain the factory hitch!

Victory seems like the best solution for a full bumper w/the swing outs, at least right now.

I've also been looking at Rig'd and Wilco hitch solutions but the full solution is so much nicer and I assume it's just a matter of time before the stupid little plastic wings on the factory bumper get destroyed and need replacing anyway....

 

[Pappy]

Since this has come back up to the top, I did make a few changes after spending 50 nights on a Canada/Alaska trip this summer. Bottom line, I needed more power in the camper. I have since installed a second 190w panel, replaced the 30a PWM controller with a 40a MPPT controller, and doubled the batteries from 100ah to 200ah.

The fridge in the back seat was originally powered off its own 50ah battery under the seat, but since I doubled the power in the camper it is now powered off the camper batteries.

Second panel on top of the Dirtbox.

40a MPPT solar controller, with Bluetooth.

Two 100ah batteries relocated to the top shelf of the molle box.

Fuse block. Power for the camper lighting and outlets, two refrigerators, additional outlets (Starlink), water pump, and DC-DC charger input.

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