2025 Limited - Grille swap with TRD OR/SPORT?

[TacoLover13]

I have been working on chrome deleting my 2025 limited. After reading about the camera calibrating, I’ve decided upgrading to a PRO/Trailhunter grille is not right for me.

Question - If I were to swap with TRD OR/Sport grill, will I run into the same camera calibration issues? I would assume I would still need a new camera bracket, but if that’s all, I would just buy the bracket from Rave and call it a day.

In the alternative, is vinyl wrapping the limited grille possible?

Thank you!!!

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[Baltimore]

You are likely to need to adjust the camera regardless. But it'll depend on your level of OCD that all the lines match up.

Given all the fine lines, vinyl might be really difficult, versus plasticoat or similar.

The calibration stuff is tedious, but not hard. Doing just the front takes under 20 min. Doing the entire system took me about 3 hours.

 

[oyvey]

You are likely to need to adjust the camera regardless. But it'll depend on your level of OCD that all the lines match up.

Given all the fine lines, vinyl might be really difficult, versus plasticoat or similar.

The calibration stuff is tedious, but not hard. Doing just the front takes under 20 min. Doing the entire system took me about 3 hours.

I’m interested in this too. The calibration is all DIY? I can handle a few hours if I don’t have to pay a dealer to do it wrong. What provoked the need to do the entire system vs just the front?

 

[PaulyBTiger]

I have been working on chrome deleting my 2025 limited. After reading about the camera calibrating, I’ve decided upgrading to a PRO/Trailhunter grille is not right for me.

Question - If I were to swap with TRD OR/Sport grill, will I run into the same camera calibration issues? I would assume I would still need a new camera bracket, but if that’s all, I would just buy the bracket from Rave and call it a day.

In the alternative, is vinyl wrapping the limited grille possible?

Thank you!!!

Suggest you use Hyperdip spray.

 

[TacoLover13]

Suggest you use Hyperdip spray.

I've been thinking of this, but I assume I would have to remove the grill to do. I am not confident in my grill removing skills based on the videos I've seen lol

 

[Slappy]

i did mine from RS5 sombrero grill to the halo Aspire grill
body shop did the swap out work wasn't expensive
if they disconnect the battery 1st no need for recal of the sensors

 

[Baltimore]

I’m interested in this too. The calibration is all DIY? I can handle a few hours if I don’t have to pay a dealer to do it wrong. What provoked the need to do the entire system vs just the front?

yeah. in the beginning there was a lot of spin on this, myself included, as dealerships gave a lot of misleading information.

To be very clear:
-- calibration of the parking sensors requires access to GTS+
-- calibration of the camera system does NOT require any special hardware or software; just time, some basic home improvement store products/tools, a big flat area, and some time.

There's a PDF file on the forums of the exact tech instruction details for all the references and measurements, you'll want a copy of that. Also take some time to read through it a couple times and mark it up. Quite a few time the way they reference a measurement or distance is not the most practical in practice, so reading through you might find additional notes you want to move more quickly.

Items you'll need:
- a plumb bob
- lots of throwaway string, have ~150ft loosely available. You'll effectively be making 3 lines that are roughly 3x the length of the truck and 3 lines 3x the width of the truck. You'll need to be able to anchor/secure these so that the lines stay taut (I used loose bricks that I could wrap the string around a few time and had enough weight/friction to hold the strings tight)
- about 1.5-2 rolls of 2" wide (or wider) painter's tape or similar. The key thing here is that every ground marking you need to make is 80mm (8cm) wide, which is a double stripe of 1.66" wide, or 2" wide overlapped. To give this context, you'll end up throwing away a football/rugby sized ball of tape when all is said and done
- a tape measure at least 25ft long, ideally with metric markings. All of your instructions are in mm, so if you don't have a metric tape, you'll need to do a lot of conversions beforehand to measure things out correctly.

Without attempting to rewrite the PDF, but to give you an idea of what's in store:
- you plumb bob to the ground at the center of the grille (L/R) and center of the tailgate handle (L/R) = that forms your front/back center line
- you plumb bob to the ground at the tip of the rear bumper wing point that is nearest the rear wheel on each side = that forms your left/right reference line
- you'll then map out two more horizontal lines a specific distance from those original line intersections
- you'll then map out two outboard lines a specific distance wide from the center line
- this forms your reference grid
-- on this reference grid, you'll then create some giant "X" marks to their prescribed length and width to mark the corner alignment references
-- you'll mark a few horizontal markers of a specific length on the front and rear horizontals
-- you'll mark a few short marks of a specific length on each outboard side line

At this point you're done on the markup front and you switch to inside the truck and performing the actual calibration.

Turn on the truck electrical so that dash and 8" or 14" screen activate. Go to Settings, then Display, then select "turn off". you then swipe your finger from left to right on the screen 5 times in a row, immediately followed by right to left 5 times in a row. NOTE: the screen will prompt to turn on as soon as your first touch - just ignore it! If you do this successfully, it'll activate the service diagnostics menu, where you can go to Cameras, then Calibrate/Adjust.

When this view is active, you'll see your 360 bird's eye view and you'll notice a bunch of red boxes and hollow "X"s. Guess what? The goal is how well you can line up your ground marks with the red boxes.

The instructions warn you that up/down/left/right doesn't 100% mean those directions. It's all relational to the install direction of the camera. So think of them as a generic D-pad and tap each one of few times to see how it moves a given camera, then make your adjustments accordingly. The height arrows actually zoom the camera in/out and can really help get things tightly aligned (should you choose), regardless of whether you 'lifted' the truck or not.

It took me about 2ish hours to set the marks, 30min to calibrate all cameras, and 20min to clean everything up.



For the ask as to why I did the entire system? My dealership in an attempt to adjust the front camera ended up screwing up a ton and trying to tell me I broke it and it was "permanently out of calibration". When this happens, your 360 and your parking lines disable and all you get is the basic front/rear camera usage. So when I found the instructions I said "I have nothing to lose but time and materials". When I got in to the adjustment screen, I wasn't totally happen with the alignment of the corner "X"s and so took the few extra minutes to adjust everything until it was as damn near perfect as I could envision with a bunch of round camera lenses (this is how I learned that the height arrows actually zoom - because that helped make the side cameras match up better with less distortion in the corners of the views).

Happy to answer more, here or in PM, if desired.


Here are a few photos to give a visual of what you're in for if you opt to do it yourself.

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