5w-30

[32spoke]

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/...erstanding-the-viscosity-index-of-motor-oils/

https://shieldoils.com/engine-oil-breakdown-high-temperature/


https://amsoilasiapacific.com/what-does-viscosity-really-mean-for-your-motor-oil/

oops, I wrote that 5W30 was for a low temp threshold of 20 degrees Fahrenheit, it is actually MINUS, yes -20 degrees Fahrenheit.. my bad

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/t24-a-fts-turbo-engine.400187/

^^^^^^^

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[32spoke]

No—we’re not doing this again. You’ve already made your position clear, and you’re not engaging with the actual topic of the thread.

You are spot on…

 

[24tacoman]

That’s not going to prove what you think it will.


One truck, two oil changes, and a couple UOAs isn’t controlled testing—that’s anecdotal.


UOAs are diagnostic tools, not a way to overturn manufacturer specs. If it were that easy, the industry would’ve done it already.

Fair enough. There is no reason to assume 5w30 would protect any better than what the engineers tested the engine with and approved it for (0w20). I’m just saying if I do both oil analyses and the 5w30 shows less wear materials on the same OCI and driving conditions, that would convince me to make the switch. If you actually look at the stats for these oils, 0w20 and 5w30 are very similar in viscosity, and the actual measured viscosity varies from brand to brand. I don’t think putting 5w30 in a hard working engine would do it any harm.

 

[maxx075]

https://www.valvolineglobal.com/en/...erstanding-the-viscosity-index-of-motor-oils/

https://shieldoils.com/engine-oil-breakdown-high-temperature/


https://amsoilasiapacific.com/what-does-viscosity-really-mean-for-your-motor-oil/

oops, I wrote that 5W30 was for a low temp threshold of 20 degrees Fahrenheit, it is actually MINUS, yes -20 degrees Fahrenheit.. my bad

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/t24-a-fts-turbo-engine.400187/

I could care less lol, I was just making fun of the guy above me.

 

[DENNISD]

I could care less lol, I was just making fun of the guy above me.

Nice

 

[EatMyTaco]

That’s not going to prove what you think it will.


One truck, two oil changes, and a couple UOAs isn’t controlled testing—that’s anecdotal.


UOAs are diagnostic tools, not a way to overturn manufacturer specs. If it were that easy, the industry would’ve done it already.

So there’s no reasonable way to generate data that you will accept, yet you don’t provide any of your own besides “it’s in the manual (in the United States).”

why don’t you outline what data you would accept. What testing regime is acceptable to you? What bar do you need to have cleared.

saying no is easy. Define the parameters.

 

[MustardTiger]

Someone running 5w30 should post their UOA! If the test shows improved wear performance over 0w20 UOA’s taken at the same OCI and under the same driving conditions, then we will have an answer. I’m planning on switching to 5w30 this summer for one change and getting it tested, and testing the 0w20 I drained before putting the 5w30 in. I will post results when I do this. I am having a hard time shipping my oil samples to Blackstone, as I am in Canada and Canada Post considers a tiny bottle of oil a dangerous good so they won’t ship it…

I would absolutely do a UOA but finding it difficult to source a place to do it. If you're in the Edmonton area...I think you have some local options...

@DENNISD dude, if this thread and it's posts trigger you that much, and you have to beat your chest with jugs of 0w20 in protest of us using 5w30...as has already been said, you're not engaging with the actual topic and purpose of this thread. Be a responsible adult and just leave, you're not making any positive contributions to the discussion here

 

[DENNISD]

I would absolutely do a UOA but finding it difficult to source a place to do it. If you're in the Edmonton area...I think you have some local options...

@DENNISD dude, if this thread and it's posts trigger you that much, and you have to beat your chest with jugs of 0w20 in protest of us using 5w30...as has already been said, you're not engaging with the actual topic and purpose of this thread. Be a responsible adult and just leave, you're not making any positive contributions to the discussion here

This is just as frustrating on my end.


What’s being presented as “tests” here really aren’t useful for measuring anything meaningful. A couple UOAs, pressure readings, or one-off comparisons don’t establish improved wear or durability—they’re anecdotal.


The reason I’m engaging is for the people reading along. Without context, this kind of information can be misleading. There’s still no actual evidence showing 5W-30 improves outcomes in this engine—and that’s the entire point.


At best, you end up in the same place. At worst, you’re running outside the validated spec with no demonstrated benefit.


And no—I’m not “triggered.” I’m applying the same standard of evidence across the board.

 

[shackley]

Everything I cite “supports your claim”

glad I could help. Can you advise all of us as to why those engineers that chose the engine oils that caused damage to their own engines? I cited mistakes from OEM manufacturers for oil for their own engines. GM recently bumped up oil spec requirements for their 6.2 liter engines to protect engine bearing better on some engines with suspected bearing/crank clearance issues. GM also bumped up the warranty on those engines too.
If you choose 0w20, that’s certainly your choice. Since the identical engine with the identical components in multiple continents, offer 10w30 from zero degrees Fahrenheit. Oil spec is in Yuma, AZ- 0w20, yet five miles south, Toyota recommends 0w20 viscosity oil for mileage and 5w20, 5w30, and 10w30.. it’s about the temperature- Russia Toyota manuals recommend 0w20 and…. 5w30- climate is similar to Canada and the United States. Ukraine, and Georgia recommend the same as the Russian t24a-fts engine… Spain recommends the same as Mexico…. If I lived in a colder climate, I would possibly consider 0w20. But since 5w30 is ok for below zero degree temps, I’ll use 5w30 since I travel to AZ a fair bit and where I live, maybe I get frost 5 days per year… Garret turbo website recommends starting at 5w30 and increasing viscosity from there…. BMW uses a 0w20 oil on turbocharged engines, but they have a bmw spec 01fe which will also reaffirm your claim, right? Even though that oil has some additional scrutiny that relates to that specific engine, and those bmw engines don’t tow, don’t off-road and don’t weigh nearly as much as the Tacoma can..

Choose 0w20.. that’s fine, but anyone considering this as the best oil option for warm weather is either someone that doesn’t want to admit CAFE requirements have driven this decision, or suffer from cognitive dissonance. The citations I have provided, will help those that are open minded

I live in New Mexico about 200 miles north of the US/Mexico border and do fieldwork in Sonora and Chihuahua. Should I shift to 5w30 when I cross the border, or maybe use 5w30 in hot New Mexico summers? If I bought my Trailhunter in Ciudad Juarez about 200 miles south of Albuquerque I would be using 5w30. It seems that if you have a hot summer, use 5w30 in the summer and 0w20 in the winter. A number of Tacoma owners with t24a-fts engines here in central and southern New Mexico do that. Perhaps I just have "cognitive dissonance", but as a PhD I've been accused of that before.

 

[32spoke]

You can answer your own question about the owner’s manual recommendations for the Tacoma United States owner’s manual vs an owner’s manual recommendation from 200 miles south. No one is claiming to change your oil at the border, that claim you made is a bad faith argument. When reviewing other regional owner manuals for the same
T24A-FTS engine, one will see that the spec for the United States and Canada differ from.. Russia, when Russia has weather from much further north to moderate climates like in the United States.

I live in New Mexico about 200 miles north of the US/Mexico border and do fieldwork in Sonora and Chihuahua. Should I shift to 5w30 when I cross the border, or maybe use 5w30 in hot New Mexico summers? If I bought my Trailhunter in Ciudad Juarez about 200 miles south of Albuquerque I would be using 5w30. It seems that if you have a hot summer, use 5w30 in the summer and 0w20 in the winter. A number of Tacoma owners with t24a-fts engines here in central and southern New Mexico do that. Perhaps I just have "cognitive dissonance", but as a PhD I've been accused of that before.

 

[GSPHerder]

Does 0w-20 work? Perhaps. Toyota will say it will suffice for lifetime of engine however Toyota's definition of lifetime is different from mine. I've been in a class with Toyota peeps and their definition of lifetime isn't what most people think it is.

Does 0w-20 work, how about after its been diluted down to 0w-16 or less?? Are you content with a diluted 0w-20? if not then it would make good sense to run a 30w.

I've seen 20w oil analysis that showed increase or abnormal wear at 20k miles. What I'm/we are interested in is some oil analysis that show wear with a 30w. Not only that but not all oil's are created equal. Some have additional or different additives that might be advantages to our 4th gen motors.

A compilation of data, 20w, 30w what ever, will benefit us 4th gen owners so if you don't want to play then why are you replying to this thread?

 

[GSPHerder]

Even if you use a 20w not all oil's are equal, here's a quick example that might be illustrated with a compilation of oil analysis no matter what weight you chose to use.

Red Line

• Uses PAO + high ester content
• Esters are polar → they stick to metal surfaces
• Creates a natural lubricating film even when oil pressure drops

Result: better protection in:

• startup
• high load
• boundary lubrication situations

Confirmed: Red Line uses ester/PAO base stocks for stronger film and stability


Mobil 1

• Primarily PAO + Group III hydrocracked oils
• Less naturally “sticky” than esters
• Relies more on additives than base oil behavior

Result: still excellent, but more “standard synthetic” behavior


2. Anti-wear additives (ZDDP levels)
Red Line

• Higher ZDDP levels (often ~1200–2200 ppm depending on product)
• Specifically designed for:
  • flat tappet cams
  • high load engines

Red Line explicitly advertises enhanced ZDDP


Result: thicker sacrificial wear film


Mobil 1

• Lower ZDDP (typically ~800 ppm range)
• Limited by:
  • catalytic converter protection
  • emissions regulations

Result:

• Safer for modern emissions systems
• Slightly less aggressive wear protection under extreme load

3. Film strength & high-temp protection
Red Line

• Stronger high-temperature film strength
• Lower evaporation (NOACK)
• Designed for track / turbo / extreme heat

Red Line emphasizes thicker oil film and better hot metal lubrication


Result: better protection when oil is:

• very hot
• under shear (RPM/load)

Mobil 1

• Optimized for:
  • consistent viscosity
  • fuel economy
• Still very good at heat, but tuned for broad use, not extremes

4. Detergents & cleanliness strategy
Mobil 1

• Higher detergent/dispersant focus
• Designed for:
  • long drain intervals
  • keeping engines clean

Result: excellent for daily drivers and extended oil changes


Red Line

• Still high detergency, but:
• less compromise for emissions and deposits

Result:

• more performance-oriented
• slightly less “OEM conservative”

5. Intended use (this is where people pick wrong)
Red Line is better if:

• high performance / modified engine
• flat tappet cams
• high RPM / turbo / track use
• you want maximum wear protection over everything else

Mobil 1 is better if:

• modern daily driver
• under warranty
• need API / OEM approvals
• long oil change intervals
• care about catalytic converter life

Pennzoil Platinum (dexos1)

• Uses gas-to-liquid (GTL / PurePlus) base oil
• Extremely low impurities (very “clean” oil)

Result:

• Less carbon buildup
• Better piston cleanliness
• Strong resistance to turbo coking

Known for keeping engines cleaner over time


Mobil 1

• Uses PAO + Group III synthetic blend
• More traditional synthetic base

Result:

• Excellent overall protection
• Slightly less focus on deposit control vs Pennzoil

2. Turbo-specific behavior (LSPI + deposits)

Both meet dexos1, so both:

• prevent LSPI (low-speed pre-ignition)
• protect timing chains
• handle turbo heat

But:

Pennzoil edge:

• Better deposit control (especially pistons + turbo)
• Cleaner burn → less sludge

Mobil 1 edge:

• Slightly stronger oxidation stability over long intervals
• More consistent across extreme service intervals

3. Additive package philosophy
Pennzoil dexos1

• Balanced anti-wear (moderate ZDDP)
• Strong detergents
• Tuned for:
  • cleanliness
  • turbo reliability

Mobil 1

• Also balanced (must meet dexos1)
• Often slightly more conservative
• Focus on:
  • long drain intervals
  • OEM compatibility across many brands

 

[maxx075]

What's the over/under on page count for this thread?

 

[lauren01]

What's the over/under on page count for this thread?

62

 

[EatMyTaco]

62

Didn’t you mean 42?

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