Oil Change options

[Delta1Seven]

Is this a good option for oil for my non-hybrid? (Only $31 at Costco)

My last truck was GM, and you had to make sure you bought oil with the Dexos certification. I don’t believe the Tacoma has requirements but I wasn’t sure.

This oil below is “advanced fuel economy”. I usually just get the normal version but not sure if this is inferior

Sponsored

 

[Sagebrush]

From the manual:


Oil grade:

ILSAC GF-6A multigrade engine

 

[32spoke]

Is this a good option for oil for my non-hybrid? (Only $31 at Costco)

My last truck was GM, and you had to make sure you bought oil with the Dexos certification. I don’t believe the Tacoma has requirements but I wasn’t sure.

This oil below is “advanced fuel economy”. I usually just get the normal version but not sure if this is inferior

Dexos is a GM oil spec, and they have different variants of the dexos spec. The original dexos spec was an acidity neutralizer. This Mobil 1 oil is great… changing the oil more often than 10k miles help to eliminate the problem that extended range oils battle with- liquid contaminants. Changing the oil every 5k miles is much better for the helping the condition of the oil

 

[Bravada]

Is this a good option for oil for my non-hybrid? (Only $31 at Costco)

This is what I'm using. It's meets ILSAC GF-6A.

 

[Mightyquinn]

As long as it's Full Synthetic, ILSAC GF-6A and 0W-20 you should be good to go. Changing the oil and filter every 5,000 miles is another level of insurance against engine problems.

 

[Texas Bob]

I completely agree that changing both oil and filter sooner than 10,000 miles is much more important than any differences between brands of oil, so long as the technical requirements are met. I feel very comfortable using the even less expensive Costco brand which is around $36 for 10 quarts if I remember correctly. The only problem is that you are left with about 4 quarts in the second jug after changing the oil...

 

[TBanks95]

I would also second using any good quality 0W-20 synthetic oil and change the oil regularly at 5000 miles. I have had very good luck with Costcos in house oil which I have used I a variety of makes and models with good results. The oil has also had independent testing and has a good additive package.

 

[Don Hoe]

I see a lot of comments saying use a full synthetic? ALL 0w20 oils are full synthetic. And according to "The Motor Oil Geek" (YouTube) the Toyota OEM 0w20 oil is made by Mobile but has a custom additive package made for Toyota that is supposed to be very good however in Canada the price is ridiculous. I just use Costco's Castrol Edge 0w20.

 

[izzy]

Toyota that is supposed to be very good

It's got a lot of moly compared to stuff you can get at AutoZone. While in warranty I'd use Toyota oil, and change it every 5k.

After warranty (for me 125k) I'm going to switch to Motul 5w30. No need for extreme cold weather 0w in California. Higher base weight will always have better hot protection.

 

[carguy4471]

It's got a lot of moly compared to stuff you can get at AutoZone. While in warranty I'd use Toyota oil, and change it every 5k.

After warranty (for me 125k) I'm going to switch to Motul 5w30. No need for extreme cold weather 0w in California. Higher base weight will always have better hot protection.

Please do not mislead folks. This is flat false.

The base weight (for example, the “10” in 10W-30) refers to the oil’s viscosity at cold temperatures — how thick it is before it warms up. A higher base number (like 15W vs 5W) means the oil is thicker when cold.

At Operating Temperature

Once the oil reaches full operating temperature (~100 °C or 212 °F), the second number (e.g., the “30” in 10W-30) is what determines viscosity and protection under normal running conditions.
That means:

• 5W-30 and 10W-30 have roughly the same viscosity and film strength at full temperature.
• The difference is mainly how they behave when cold — 5W flows faster at startup.

 

[izzy]

Please do not mislead folks. This is flat false.

The base weight (for example, the “10” in 10W-30) refers to the oil’s viscosity at cold temperatures — how thick it is before it warms up. A higher base number (like 15W vs 5W) means the oil is thicker when cold.

At Operating Temperature

Once the oil reaches full operating temperature (~100 °C or 212 °F), the second number (e.g., the “30” in 10W-30) is what determines viscosity and protection under normal running conditions.
That means:

• 5W-30 and 10W-30 have roughly the same viscosity and film strength at full temperature.
• The difference is mainly how they behave when cold — 5W flows faster at startup.

Chill with the AI response.

Higher base weight is always better if you don't need the low viscosity for cold weather.

I'm a Subaru guy don't even try to talk oil

 

[carguy4471]

This isn't complicated stuff. A higher base weight oil does not offer better hot-temperature protection because the operating-temperature viscosity grade and oil chemistry are what control that, not the starting viscosity when cold.

Base weight is the first number, used to determine cold viscosity (cold-flow rating).
The second number is your hot viscosity.

By your logic if I live in a warm climate I'd be better off with straight 30 weight oil (or 20 if that's what the vehicle calls for). Does anyone do this.... no. No one does this as a higher base weight doesn't give any extra protection once hot.

At full temperature protection depends on hot viscosity grade, base oil "quality", additive package (anti-wear agents like ZDDP, detergents, dispersants, etc.), film strength and shear stability (how well viscosity modifiers hold up under stress).

I don't need to be a subaru fan (and I am). I also work in the auto industry and have for over three decades. I'm not arguing the above, it's well established fact that anyone can google.

 

[Crazy Mary’s Husband]

My oil is better than your oil.

 

[izzy]

This isn't complicated stuff. A higher base weight oil does not offer better hot-temperature protection because the operating-temperature viscosity grade and oil chemistry are what control that, not the starting viscosity when cold.

Base weight is the first number, used to determine cold viscosity (cold-flow rating).
The second number is your hot viscosity.

By your logic if I live in a warm climate I'd be better off with straight 30 weight oil (or 20 if that's what the vehicle calls for). Does anyone do this.... no. No one does this as a higher base weight doesn't give any extra protection once hot.

At full temperature protection depends on hot viscosity grade, base oil "quality", additive package (anti-wear agents like ZDDP, detergents, dispersants, etc.), film strength and shear stability (how well viscosity modifiers hold up under stress).

I don't need to be a subaru fan (and I am). I also work in the auto industry and have for over three decades. I'm not arguing the above, it's well established fact that anyone can google.

Lighter base stock is gonna burn easier / evaporate more and not provide as much protection when hot.

You'll lose a little MPG but you'll have less wear at higher temps. (100F+ ambient isn't unheard of in California).

Sponsored