"The" Stereo / Audio Sound Post: Don't Skip this one!

[PNWkip]

Sounds to me like you have it set correctly. Yes, just be careful with the bass boost, that is a sub killer if not done right.

And I agree, there’s A LOT of info on EVERYTHING out there. You can end up with “paralysis by analysis”. I spent a good 10 years doing that when I went from “just gotta make it loud” to “why doesn’t this sound good.” I’ve been at this for 35 years, and there’s always more to learn.

Current setting which sound good? Sorry to hijack the thread OP. So many knowledgeable people around here.

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[BoboForShort]

No, try again. The amplifier is using the power of the alternator to operate. When, and only when, the alternator runs out of available power, the battery is used in reserve. However, Toyota would know this, and design an amplifier that doesn’t need to dip into battery reserves for power..

The 2024 Hybrids do not have an alternator. They use the DC to DC converter for the 12v systems. The 2025 hybrids with 4 AUX switches do have an alternator to supplement the power draw. So it is possible the DC to DC converter of the Hybrid provides more amps for the sound system to work with.

 

[The Dude]

The 2024 Hybrids do not have an alternator. They use the DC to DC converter for the 12v systems. The 2025 hybrids with 4 AUX switches do have an alternator to supplement the power draw. So it is possible the DC to DC converter of the Hybrid provides more amps for the sound system to work with.

Interesting. I’m going to have to do more reading on the hybrid in these trucks. I don’t have one, so it’s been down the list of reading material. Thanks for setting me straight.

 

[The Dude]

Current setting which sound good? Sorry to hijack the thread OP. So many knowledgeable people around here.

I’d probably set the x-over to the x, that’s likely closer to 80Hz. But other than that, your settings look fine. If you’re concerned, maybe try with the boost at minimum.

When you're adjusting your gains specifically for an amp, you want to use an Oscilloscope so that when you're at the highest listening volume level that your signals are still sine waves (there's a little more to it based on the frequency of the sound you're tuning against). If you just crank the bass knob and your gains aren't set properly you'll get square waves, aka clipping.

Clipping is bad mmkay.

Agreed, an o-scope would be desirable, but not everyone has access to one short of buying their own for a one-time use. And two, can’t really use it on an enclosed powered enclosure.

 

[PNWkip]

I’d probably set the x-over to the x, that’s likely closer to 80Hz. But other than that, your settings look fine. If you’re concerned, maybe try with the boost at minimum.

Agreed, an o-scope would be desirable, but not everyone has access to one short of buying their own for a one-time use. And two, can’t really use it on an enclosed powered enclosure.

Ok! Thanks dude.
The one thing is that when that remote knob is plugged in, if I turn the gain at the box it does nothing at all!
Anyways, appreciate your help. Thank you

 

[The Dude]

@PNWkip looking closer at the manual for your powered sub, I have a question.

Where are you grabbing the signal from for the box?

Can you possibly, this is going to be loud, get a test tone, something 40-50Hz at 0db, try kicker.com, and measure th voltage on your inputs at the box at whatever volume you initially set things up at? Because the max input voltage of that box is 12V, anything more is overdriving it.

 

[Will721]

Amperage rating aside, I'd be more curious of the response time or available amperage at any given time of a dc converter vs alternator. An alternator doesn't put out peak power at all times so it's possible that the slight delay is what causes an audible difference between hybrids and non hybrids. Similar to how a capacitor "evens" out the voltage dips.

Since there are a ton of knowledgeable guys here, I'm curious if anyone is making adapter harnesses to mount amplifiers yet? I'd like to install new speakers and a 5 channel amp in my rig but utilize the factory wiring without cutting anything and also provide an aux output for a powered sub. As in, install a new amp either in place of the factory one or bypassing it and only having to run new power and ground?

This is my first ever new truck, and I plan on hopefully it being a forever rig. I specifically wanted a non JBL system because I intended on a full replacement in the future anyway. I also am trying to avoid any cutting of wiring or drilling of holes in the overall build. With that intention in mind I plan on doing as many installs as possible by fabricating brackets (or 3d printing once I get one) with that end goal in mind.

 

[bitflogger]

Hello all!

This is my first post here and I am new this year new to Tacos (25' Trailhunter). So far so good!

I wanted to compile a thorough and complete post (including info I have not seen anywhere else) about 4th Gen Tacoma Audio. There is more to this than what you might be thinking I promise, so keep reading to the end.... if you can. In the interest of trying to help everyone get the best audio out of their Tacoma (JBL or otherwise), the below are some things I have read and tried, thought of myself and tried, discovered by accident, and just experimented with, in order to get to where, what I believe to be, a decent audio experience without a complete overhaul of the system.

(Unofficial #1 point) To start off, I have personally listened to both the standard system, and the premium JBL, but ALSO the same exact JBL system in both a Hybrid and a Non-Hybrid Gas model. THE AUDIO IS DRAMATICALLY BETTER - right from the start in the hybrid versions. Unfortunately this "better" baseline starting point, is where everything below has been applied to, because that's what I own, but it is applicable to ALL. Here is my list and descriptions of things you can do to get the best out of your sound.

1. Lets start with something that "should" be rather obvious. Adjusting the: Treble, Mids, and Bass. Worth noting that the Mids tend to very easily be over emphasized in these trucks and can easily sound shrill and cause listening fatigue. For me personally I have the bass all the way up, treble one click below max, and the Mids one click above middle. This will depend on your individual tastes but play around with it. Go max on each individually or all the way down and see what you notice and fine tune it from there until you are as "happy as you can be" LOL.

2. Something that may honestly not be thought of and should be! Your Seating Position. In home-audio, we know sound stage can vary greatly depending on where the listener is positioned. Well, it shouldn't be so surprising that the position of our ears: forward, back, higher, or lower int he vehicle, will have the potential to dramatically alter what we hear, no matter what settings we are using. Try this too by just messing around with it. Try just moving your head around and adjusting your seat to where your head naturally ends up there when sitting normally. Driving comfort clearly plays a big role here, but if you can find a way to adust the seat to a happy medium of height, support, reaching everthing, thigh height, tilt, etc.... you may also find a much better listening experience. For me, sitting lower and back, opened up the sound stage and made the center chanel a little less overpowering and less harsh. Also brought he rear channels out a bit into the mix. Sound became more balanced.

3. This is a BIG ONE!!!!! The Carista OBD device with access to hidden menus. There are 4 setting I am going to point you towards but 2 of them can make a WORLD of difference. Th first two Ill know out real quick and these are the "volume: sensitivity of the mic and the speakers themselves. I found this to make a "small" difference, but it is there and worth toying around with to get a little more volume for your callers on the other end, and also more out of your volume knob. Now the other 2 are far greater in the ability to help your system out. ANC for road noise and Engine sound played through the speakers. Why this matters is because: 1. speakers can only do so much... and be able to do that WELL. So, the more we ask them to do, the less efficient they are in the one thing we really want them good at... MUSIC. and 2. The low frequency played to eliminate road noise could in theory reduce those same frequencies in your music, as well as put a pretty big strain on your subwoofer and limiting your systems bass output. This is applicable to non-JBL systems as well. Help your speakers do less tasks and do better at playing your preferred tunes. This made a big difference for me. (The Carista device has a subscription fee that you can just pay for one month and then cancel. Your setting stay! I have tested this. Unless you wish to keep it for all the other valuable info like live coolant temp, etc)

4. Another BIG one. The Audio SOURCE. Where is your system getting the audio from? Radio, physical plug, bluetooth? AND>>>>>>>> What is the audio QUALITY coming from that device/app? So lets be honest and say most of us are likely just streaming from our phones unless we are listening to the radio. Its a matter of convenience and access to a huge library of media. I have done everyone the favor of testing 5 different apps and all the different quality options they have to offer. You will see there are trade-offs for each one of them. A clear winner for quantity and a very clear winner for Quality as well.
1. YouTube Music: this app for the sheer amount of content available, completely crushes every single other app, even Spotify (I'm not counting podcasts and other, just music). It also excels in the categorization of styles and genres that allows it to seemingly find an endless stream of new songs and titles to play back to back as to never run out of something to play that lines right up with what you started with. That said, the Audio could be described as somewhat flat, muffled, and overall unimpressive compared to everyone else, even at the highest quality setting. I will say that it maintains better warmth in tone than some of the others, and less abrasive. You will see me mention that in their notes.
2. Amazon Music: This one ranks second for Lowest audio quality, but is a noticeable improvement in clarity and detail compared to YTM. The library is still quite impressive and finding new titles rather easy. The app is also user friendly, although not as good as YTM in that regard. The audio is less warm, and with that improved clarity, we also lose some of the balance and sound stage.
3. Spotify: Here we take another increase in audio quality and the top level the app offers, is significantly more detailed than the other 2 so far. The sound stage is also better overall than AM, however at the highest quality setting, can be a tad bright for my listening, overemphasizing the highs and losing some of the authority I like in the lower notes. The app is still not as good as YTM at finding new music or keeping my listening to a specific song style or genre, and I really find this disappointing. It just can't match the reach of what is available on YTM.
4. TIDAL: We take a HUGE step up in quality with zero doubt, in just about every single way. Clarity, sound stage, warmth, detail, all much much better. The music really comes to life in comparison. We do lose some of the variety, and not as much content, but the app still does a pretty decent job of finding and playing a good playlist, and categorizing it accordingly. I really like this app, but I WISH is either had the scope of YTM, or matched the quality of our last app on the list.
5. Qobuz: Bar-none the winner by a mile in audio quality. What TIDAL does best, this does it better in every category, but with increased fullness and balance that is lacking in TIDAL. You simply cannot do better. Playing the same track back to back here vas any of the other 4, leaves the other in the dust. However, this app by far has the lowest amount of titles, and their categorizing and indexing flat out sucks. You have to know what you want to listen to, go find it, and play it. Or, create your own playlists over time. Also note: Center channel is the least overpowered using this app.

All that said, you can always download and connect a flash driver or other device via cord, directly to the unit as well.

5. On top of the source, it is important to note that added adjustability and refinement can really help out bigtime. So here we have External Equalizer aps like Poweramp. These can take what's good and make it soooo much better, plus help us remove unwanted high areas that the factory system tends to default to. This app allows me to adjust the "gain" on my music so my system has more volume, this allows me to really tailor the audio much more than the music app's adjustments or otherwise. Worth noting that not all music apps allow control over their output by other apps. TIDAL for example DOES NOT, which is unfortunate because the one or two things lacking might be fixable with the audio tuning provided here.

6. Last but not least! A plug and play external amp like Beat-Sonic. I ordered one of these little things and through some mild hassle, was able to install it without any modification or altering to factory wiring or other. This made a NOTABLE difference and for how much I enjoy my music, it was well worth doing, especially when added to all of the above. Why it really works is becuase we have to understand that factory systems will "hold back" power as you increase the volume. They do this to protect the speakers and ensure nothing gets maxed out, Well, this changes the audio profile more and more as the volume goes up. The added power this little amp provides, allows you to listen at "your max listening level", at a much lower volume "setting" on the dash. Your audio profile is therefore held in tact, and it really helps to maintain the clarity and details in the music as well as the bass! Seriously. It also allowed me to adjust the audio to the rear speakers by 1 notch to help better balance the sound stage and reduce listening fatigue, but not lose soooo much audio potential like I did as stock.

Well, thats the list! If you made it this far, I congratulate you. Drop a comment and let me know if this helped you. If you found it over the top and boring, you are probably not who I intended to help - just saying.

Where's the data to support there's a notable difference with the premium tier JBL flex in the Tacomas? In our long-running pre-sales testing and deciding on models and packages they seemed the same. One detail and nerdy type sales person at a dealer said all the Tacomas have an 800 watt version of the platform, larger and 3 row Toyotas a 1200 watt version also tweaked for 3 row seating, and physically smaller hybrid cars have same 800 watts but some lighter "GreenEdge" mostly speaker related differences.

I admit I did not dig into it so deeply, but that one salesperson seriously into it plus doing modifications was actually looking up part number differences with his access to the service department stuff. Thus my being curious to know. On his own dealer issued laptop he had huge amounts of info on stuff common across platforms and models. He was also their in sales dept expert on all the stuff Toyota themselves plus the dealer's for accessories and parts. He seemed very credible.

Thank you.

 

[Crazy Mary’s Husband]

Where's the data to support there's a notable difference with the premium tier JBL flex in the Tacomas? In our long-running pre-sales testing and deciding on models and packages they seemed the same. One detail and nerdy type sales person at a dealer said all the Tacomas have an 800 watt version of the platform, larger and 3 row Toyotas a 1200 watt version also tweaked for 3 row seating, and physically smaller hybrid cars have same 800 watts but some lighter "GreenEdge" mostly speaker related differences.

I admit I did not dig into it so deeply, but that one salesperson seriously into it plus doing modifications was actually looking up part number differences with his access to the service department stuff. Thus my being curious to know. On his own dealer issued laptop he had huge amounts of info on stuff common across platforms and models. He was also their in sales dept expert on all the stuff Toyota themselves plus the dealer's for accessories and parts. He seemed very credible.

Thank you.

The best salesmen always seem credible. The better you bullshit, the better you eat.

 

[The Dude]

Amperage rating aside, I'd be more curious of the response time or available amperage at any given time of a dc converter vs alternator. An alternator doesn't put out peak power at all times so it's possible that the slight delay is what causes an audible difference between hybrids and non hybrids. Similar to how a capacitor "evens" out the voltage dips.

Since there are a ton of knowledgeable guys here, I'm curious if anyone is making adapter harnesses to mount amplifiers yet? I'd like to install new speakers and a 5 channel amp in my rig but utilize the factory wiring without cutting anything and also provide an aux output for a powered sub. As in, install a new amp either in place of the factory one or bypassing it and only having to run new power and ground?

This is my first ever new truck, and I plan on hopefully it being a forever rig. I specifically wanted a non JBL system because I intended on a full replacement in the future anyway. I also am trying to avoid any cutting of wiring or drilling of holes in the overall build. With that intention in mind I plan on doing as many installs as possible by fabricating brackets (or 3d printing once I get one) with that end goal in mind.

For the harness, check PAC-audio.com. I know the JBL is the TY-02, but never looked up the base stereo options. Good luck.

 

[Statherós K-9]

No, try again. The amplifier is using the power of the alternator to operate. When, and only when, the alternator runs out of available power, the battery is used in reserve. However, Toyota would know this, and design an amplifier that doesn’t need to dip into battery reserves for power..

Still interesting that myself and others notice a significant difference between Hybrid and non-hybrid. Maybe its limited to individual vehicles and a flaw. I did say "I assume" because I don't know the root cause of why it behaves that way. Sounds like neither do you.

 

[Statherós K-9]

The 2024 Hybrids do not have an alternator. They use the DC to DC converter for the 12v systems. The 2025 hybrids with 4 AUX switches do have an alternator to supplement the power draw. So it is possible the DC to DC converter of the Hybrid provides more amps for the sound system to work with.

Thank you for this!

 

[Drifte]

Amperage rating aside, I'd be more curious of the response time or available amperage at any given time of a dc converter vs alternator. An alternator doesn't put out peak power at all times so it's possible that the slight delay is what causes an audible difference between hybrids and non hybrids. Similar to how a capacitor "evens" out the voltage dips.

Since there are a ton of knowledgeable guys here, I'm curious if anyone is making adapter harnesses to mount amplifiers yet? I'd like to install new speakers and a 5 channel amp in my rig but utilize the factory wiring without cutting anything and also provide an aux output for a powered sub. As in, install a new amp either in place of the factory one or bypassing it and only having to run new power and ground?

This is my first ever new truck, and I plan on hopefully it being a forever rig. I specifically wanted a non JBL system because I intended on a full replacement in the future anyway. I also am trying to avoid any cutting of wiring or drilling of holes in the overall build. With that intention in mind I plan on doing as many installs as possible by fabricating brackets (or 3d printing once I get one) with that end goal in mind.

TacoTunes seems to be in progress on a T-harness for tapping in an external amp. They appear to have done some thorough testing but I have no first hand experience with the company.

For me the first step with car audio is sound treatments. From there I will upgrade components as I see fit. I found the components in the JBL system to be pretty low end, light weight. So just replacing them with upgraded components will likely leave them under powered and receiving whatever manipulated tuning/signal JBL made giving your new components peaks and valleys that dont suit their design. If your going to do it right, it takes some time and money. I see most just throw an amp and sub in and call it better.

 

[The Dude]

Still interesting that myself and others notice a significant difference between Hybrid and non-hybrid. Maybe its limited to individual vehicles and a flaw. I did say "I assume" because I don't know the root cause of why it behaves that way. Sounds like neither do you.

:slow clap: correct, I’m not sure why. One thing I am sure of though, I’m learning to figure it out. I don’t like to throw shade at anyone, especially on the internet, because things can most definitely be taken out of context. However, I don’t step into a forum and say “The” anything thread “that you MUST read”, when I’m talking out my ass! All you did was write some nonsensical BS about how your stereo “gives you all the feels”, and then shill for Beatsonic, not really knowing wtf you’re talking about. So, yes, I don’t know how a generator works in a hybrid and whether that even HAS an effect in sound. But I am reading about how hybrids, specifically Toyota, work so that I can form an educated opinion, rather then puff up my chest and say “my mommy says I’m smrt.” (Spelled incorrectly for a reason).

*ninja edit* btw, IGNORED.

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