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Non Hybrid 2024 ORD Battery Issues

Romer

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I drove 20 minutes to my Father-in Laws house. I was inside 5 minutes came out and the truck would not start. Lights, Dash everything else seemed to work fine. The starter would not engage. I tried my Nocco GB40 and it was clicking with lights flashing. Unfortunately, at the time I did not know how to use the bypass feature to disable the safety feature. I do now for the next time.

I called a Tow truck via the Toyota Road Side Service (AAA) and before he was going to jump it, I tried once more and it fired right up with no issues (Go Figure). It had sat for about 30 minutes since my last attempt and an hour since it first failed

I get home after driving another 20 minutes and hook it up to my Odyssey Charger and it started the charge/condition process with only 2 bars out of 5, indicating low charge. It did pass the self test. I should have measured the voltage with my meter before charging.

No codes were present from my reader

I have been driving it everyday and it is kept in my garage.

After it went through the charge cycle and showed 5 bars hours later, I hooked the GB40 back up and it did the same thing. it made clicking sound with alternating lights again. According to the manufacturer, it usually means the vehicle battery is extremely dead (sulfated/low voltage), causing the GB40 to try and charge, shut off, then try again in a loop, indicated by flashing lights and clicking. The clicking is the internal relay, and the lights (often red or chasing) signal an error or low charge.

I tried the GB70 out of my Land Cruiser and it did the same thing with Clicking and lights

That would imply a bad battery. The Battery voltage was 12.65V and it did start right up.

Not sure if there is something in the new Tacomas that cause this to behave differently. Again, mine is a non-Hybrid

Anyone connect a GB40/70 and have it work fine? Anyone have a battery fail on them?

My Tacoma is 18 months old with 5600 miles on it

I will see if it fails again at home over the next few days and then likely take it to the dealer after I capture more data. Right now I am sure they would test it and say it seems fine
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Romer

Romer

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I did find the negative battery treminal was loose. Not loose enough that you could pull it off, but enough that it could turn 90 degress with some resistance.

That could have been the problem.

I will tighten it and post up here if it fails again. If you don't see a follow-up post, you can assume the issue did not reoccur
 

32spoke

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I sell optima, deka, odyssey batteries.. 12.65 volts is great. Battery has voltage and watts. Perhaps the watts could be low.. but… I suspect something else is an issue. If you have a volt meter/multimeter you can verify voltage before starting the engine, after starting the engine and after shut off.. then test agains the following day.. is there a pattern of a drain? If so… if the truck wasn’t starting with 12.65 volts,
I suspect something other than the battery is the issue
 
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Romer

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I sell optima, deka, odyssey batteries.. 12.65 volts is great. Battery has voltage and watts. Perhaps the watts could be low.. but… I suspect something else is an issue. If you have a volt meter/multimeter you can verify voltage before starting the engine, after starting the engine and after shut off.. then test agains the following day.. is there a pattern of a drain? If so… if the truck wasn’t starting with 12.65 volts,
I suspect something other than the battery is the issue
Thanks. That voltage was after I charged and reconditioned the battery. I should have measured when I had the issue, but it escaped my mind. I will if ithappens again
 

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32spoke

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Thanks. That voltage was after I charged and reconditioned the battery. I should have measured when I had the issue, but it escaped my mind. I will if ithappens again
That is a healthy voltage.. best way to test a battery, is to check the voltage 24 hours after being charged.. that includes not driving the vehicle.
 
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It did it again. The battery was measuring 12.1V

I had to jump it because I was taking my wife to the DR

It started up the next time.

When I got it home, I put it on the charger and it again showed 2 out of 5 bars. I did not run the charge cycle. This is after driving 30 minutes to get home

I think it’s the battery with a bad cell
 

Will721

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I sell optima, deka, odyssey batteries.. 12.65 volts is great. Battery has voltage and watts. Perhaps the watts could be low.. but… I suspect something else is an issue. If you have a volt meter/multimeter you can verify voltage before starting the engine, after starting the engine and after shut off.. then test agains the following day.. is there a pattern of a drain? If so… if the truck wasn’t starting with 12.65 volts,
I suspect something other than the battery is the issue
Just curious, have you observed a decrease in quality and lifespan in optimal batteries? They're all I used to run and infact still have one that's 10+ years old that's still going but haven't bought one since. I'm considering a yellow top for the Tacoma.
 

Will721

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You should be able to have the battery load tested at almost any Oreilly for free. I'd charge it up and take it over. Another possibility, especially on a vehicle with all these electronics is a parasitic draw draining the battery. Which can easily be tested with an ammeter.
 

32spoke

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It did it again. The battery was measuring 12.1V

I had to jump it because I was taking my wife to the DR

It started up the next time.

When I got it home, I put it on the charger and it again showed 2 out of 5 bars. I did not run the charge cycle. This is after driving 30 minutes to get home

I think it’s the battery with a bad cell
I think that you may have a parasitic draw.. do you have any aftermarket modifications to your vehicle? I sell auto parts, and thought his issue may not relate to your problem, but from my own personal experience, aftermarket modifications made by someone tethering to a battery circuit, as opposed to an alternator circuit can cause a battery to discharge…
Let me ask you this: is there any specific, repeatable scenario that results in this battery becoming discharged?
If you wish to know of the battery is the problem, don’t drive it for a couple of days, disconnect the negative after driving a fair distance and test the battery voltage after 24 hours… with the negative terminal disconnected… if the battery remains at 12.65 volts or higher, then.. the problem is no the battery, but rather-something draining it.
 

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32spoke

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You should be able to have the battery load tested at almost any Oreilly for free. I'd charge it up and take it over. Another possibility, especially on a vehicle with all these electronics is a parasitic draw draining the battery. Which can easily be tested with an ammeter.
If charged, best to test it after 24 hours and isolated from the vehicle’s electrical system to verify if the battery has a diminished capacity, if not, time to check the vehicle for a parasitic drain..
 

32spoke

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Just curious, have you observed a decrease in quality and lifespan in optimal batteries? They're all I used to run and infact still have one that's 10+ years old that's still going but haven't bought one since. I'm considering a yellow top for the Tacoma.
Great question. I sell optima and odyssey batteries, also Deka AGM and regular batteries. Odyssey and optima batteries use virgin lead, which makes them already superior to the blend of recycled and virgin lead offered by everyone.. Clarios, and east Penn, aka deka, cook up the blended conventional wet lead acid batteries. Autozone, barely solvent advance/car quest and Napa “ genuine profit company” , AAA, oreillys… we all sell the same batteries with different stickers, interstate batteries as well.
optima and odyssey batteries are not as cost effective, but superior to conventional wet lead acid batteries, just ensure that those AGM batteries are never subjected to a 15 volt charge… if so, they produce excessive gas and blow a hole, or a safety valve.. three hours later, a reply to your question- odyssey and optima batteries are better than conventional batteries.. lithium based batteries, with the proper charging rate, a far better than AGM batteries, but again- higher cost. DM me, lots to share about batteries if you have questions-
Happy holidays!
 

32spoke

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It did it again. The battery was measuring 12.1V

I had to jump it because I was taking my wife to the DR

It started up the next time.

When I got it home, I put it on the charger and it again showed 2 out of 5 bars. I did not run the charge cycle. This is after driving 30 minutes to get home

I think it’s the battery with a bad cell
Isolate it from the vehicle’s electrical system= disconnect the negative terminal, charge it- after fully charged, disconnect the charger .. wait 24 hours and test the battery. Anything below 12.65 volts is … dain bramage = diminished capacity
 
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Romer

Romer

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Thanks for your suggestions. I am an Electronic Engineer and this doesn't seem like a paristic draw issue based on behavior. It is a good thought though

I do have a HAM and GMRS radio installed, but they have been there for over a year with no issues

If it went dead after sitting a few days then yes that makes sense. If the voltage dropped below 11V that would make sense. It was 12.1 V

It started right up. I drove 10 minutes and ran into a store and it would not start, not even try on the starter. Voltage was at 12.1V which is more than enough. That would imply lack of current or something else in the Electrical system.

Then after driving 30 minutes to a Dr's appointment, started right up and 30 minutes home, the Charger showed only 2 bars out of 5

The two failures have been after a normal start and driving for 10-15 minutes it fails to start after sitting for 5-10 minutes.

One time, after sitting for an hour it started right up. The 2nd time I jumped it with a battery pack

After sitting overnight at home, it started right up.

I will take it to the dealer since they will replace it free if they test it bad. From my experiancee, bad batteries do not always test bad due to internal cell activity so I will likely replace the battery even if they say it is good.

My experinace with batteries has shown that cell problems relating to current can be intermittant and not show up as voltage problems. These are harder to isolate due to chemical. temperature and other factors
 

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Could be a bad battery. Toyota OEM batteries are better than average but all batteries have a failure rate.

Looks like you're in CO - the colder weather now could also contribute to the issue. If your radios have any draw at all, that would also continue.

But the slightly loose terminal is likely the issue. I had this same issue on my last GX470. The terminals needed cleaning every year, and without it, the starter relay would just click a few times and then eventually start and run normally.


Pull your terminals and clean them with a battery brush. Put them back on and torque them properly. Maybe use some corrosion inhibitor spray.

And disconnect or pull the fuses for your radios. If everything is good, wait a week, then put power back to the radios. As you know, test one thing at a time.
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