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5w-30

MustardTiger

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I feel like Glenn Beck, breaking out the chalkboard here lol

Let's have a look at the specs:

2024 Tacoma 5w-30 086C0BBF-DAFA-4A90-9F3C-63EF22092850


Other than the Kinematic Viscosity ratings being different (understandably so), the only other data points that stick out to me are CCS and MRV. What do those ratings mean exactly?

CCS (Cold Crank Simulator) and MRV (Mini-Rotary Viscometer) are two different tests used to measure oil viscosity at low temperatures—but they focus on different things and catch different problems.

• CCS viscosity measures how thick the oil is when it’s being pumped hard and fast—like cranking a cold engine. It simulates the resistance the starter motor fights against. Lower CCS numbers mean easier starting in freezing weather. It’s tested at around -5°C to -35°C (depending on the grade), and it’s all about shear stress under high speed.

• MRV viscosity checks for pump-ability. It looks at how well the oil flows slowly through tiny passages—like oil pump pickup tubes—after sitting cold for hours. If it gels or forms wax crystals, it can starve the engine even if CCS looks okay. MRV uses a slower shear rate, and failure here means “pumpability” issues, not just cranking.

The MRV is the viscosity in centipoise (cP) at a super-cold temp (like -20°C or -35°C, depending on the grade). A lower reading means the oil flows easier under that slow, low-shear condition—less resistance, less chance of gelling or starving the pump. If your MRV is 10,000 cP versus 20,000 cP, the 10k oil pumps way better when it’s ice-cold. Higher numbers = thicker = worse pumpability.

Quick cheat sheet:

• CCS = “Will it start?” (high-shear, cranking); lower rating number is better

• MRV = “Will it flow to the pump?” (low-shear, after soaking); lower rating number is better

A good oil passes both—CCS keeps it cranking, MRV keeps it fed. Miss MRV, and you might get a dry start even if the starter spins.


What's your take on the data, between these two grades of oil??
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maxx075

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This thread is basically the "how often should I change my oil" thread.

What is it about oil that people lose their minds lol
 

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This thread is basically the "how often should I change my oil" thread.

What is it about oil that people lose their minds lol
The threads are going to happen regardless. How much you interact with or let them bother you is up to you. Commenting that you use molasses certainly doesn't help the thread go away.
 
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GSPHerder

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The MRV is the viscosity in centipoise (cP) at a super-cold temp (like -20°C or -35°C, depending on the grade). A lower reading means the oil flows easier under that slow, low-shear condition—less resistance, less chance of gelling or starving the pump. If your MRV is 10,000 cP versus 20,000 cP, the 10k oil pumps way better when it’s ice-cold. Higher numbers = thicker = worse pumpability.

Quick cheat sheet:

• CCS = “Will it start?” (high-shear, cranking); lower rating number is better

• MRV = “Will it flow to the pump?” (low-shear, after soaking); lower rating number is better

A good oil passes both—CCS keeps it cranking, MRV keeps it fed. Miss MRV, and you might get a dry start even if the starter spins.


What's your take on the data, between these two grades of oil??
I know in previous vehicles when I switch to a heavier wt the cranking speed does go down noticeably, and the oil pressure goes up measurably. I always always wondered if the higher pressure was a good thing because there's a possibility it just wasn't flowing good enough.

According to your tables, the CSS, and MRV are better with the 30w. So helps to answer questions I always had. Next would be an oil analysis compared to peeps who are running the 20w's
 

maxx075

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The threads are going to happen regardless. How much you interact with or let them bother you is up to you. Commenting that you use molasses certainly doesn't help the thread go away.
Boy you're fun
 

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BLtheP

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I always always wondered if the higher pressure was a good thing because there's a possibility it just wasn't flowing good enough.
I haven't plugged into the OBD to monitor actual pressure, but there are oil pressure specifications in the FSM and the ECM manages that pressure expectation by reducing flow to cap the pressure output.

Specs:
1,000 rpm - 28 psi
2,000 rpm - 51 psi
3,000 rpm - 57 psi

Once I plug in and monitor I should know for sure, but my gauge seems 100% unchanged from switching to 5W-40. I believe the ECM opens the pump up enough to reduce flow by whatever amount is necessary to keep pressure at the same target point regardless of the viscosity used. So, unless I'm wrong on my initial observation, pressure is not really even worth talking about much anymore because it is kept at about the same level regardless of oil choice.

Still, at the same pressure, two different viscosities will provide different film strengths, so if you want to switch due to certain protection benefits, those benefits are still there even though the pressure is capped by the computer. I'll plug into the OBD soon and see if I can see any useful pressure readouts while driving.
 
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GSPHerder

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"Pressure Cap" is new to me. So in a thinner oil the pump would be pumping more to maintain the pressure vs pumping a thicker oil. Theoretically less blow by with a thicker oil so pump is working less. Probably take an engineer to break it down on pro's and con's.

Last vehicle which was a Power Wagon showed actual numbers. Perhaps a good reason for one of the tuners which display real numbers?
 

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That’s the generic concern, sure. It is unlikely that anybody can actually blame anything on viscosity though because by the time the oil is tested, a 5W-30 will have sheared down to near-new 0W-20 and will be even thinner if there is any fuel dilution. In other words, there are too many outside factors to accurately blame oil viscosity as the reason for failure, upon testing it.

Put another way, what if your engine blew and they tested your 0W-20 and found its viscosity to be equivalent to 0W-8 because of shear and fuel dilution. Now they’re blaming you for running oil too thin. What then? There are too many variables. If they aren’t going to cover it, they aren’t going to cover it. 5W-30 isn’t likely to ever be the reason why they won’t cover it. They’ll come up with other reasons not to cover it first and the oil analysis reason is illogical and will never favor the customer because the oil starts changing the first time the engine runs after it’s dumped in.

And alas, a recommendation is simply that: a recommendation. It isn’t a requirement.
Uh, Toyota is going to want proof of oil changes, whether done by yourself or dealer or oil change place. Those receipts are going to list the type of oil.
 

BLtheP

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Uh, Toyota is going to want proof of oil changes, whether done by yourself or dealer or oil change place. Those receipts are going to list the type of oil.
Not when I buy from Walmart they don’t.

None of this back and forth even matters. The guy posted up asking for people’s experiences running 5W-30. He didn’t ask if the owner’s manual thumpers think it’s a good idea or not. Those opinions really aren’t relevant to the discussion at all. I’m sure he has considered the potential warranty impact amidst his consideration to swap viscosities.
 
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BLtheP

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"Pressure Cap" is new to me. So in a thinner oil the pump would be pumping more to maintain the pressure vs pumping a thicker oil. Theoretically less blow by with a thicker oil so pump is working less. Probably take an engineer to break it down on pro's and con's.

Last vehicle which was a Power Wagon showed actual numbers. Perhaps a good reason for one of the tuners which display real numbers?
I tried to plug in and monitor pressure with my BlueDriver this afternoon and it had all sorts of readouts, but no oil pressure. It did have oil temp which was running around 207-210°F while the cooling system was 187-192°F. Maybe GST+ or something else can read oil pressure; not sure.
 

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Will721

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I’m sure he has considered the potential warranty impact amidst his consideration to swap viscosities.
Years of working with the general public, and years of working with professional mechanics, techs, and engineers tells me you should absolutely never assume that anyone has taken every factor into consideration. Or frankly assume they've even thought ahead at all.
 
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GSPHerder

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I never, ever, for one second considered a Toyota motor might not make it to 60k miles. If that was an issue for me than I would have never purchased it. Even if something did go sideways I'm not concerned that my 30w will void my warranty.

What I am concerned about is running a 20w and then add in the typical fuel dilution and your not even close to 0-20. If your okay running a lighter oil because Toyota is more concerned about their CAFE standards and if you're okay with that because the manual tells you too then good luck to you. Sincerely
 

32spoke

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Who's using 5w-30. Lots agree that 0-20 is for CAFE standards or EPA BS. I believe in 0-20 as much as I believe in 10k oil changes.

Any of you guys running 5w-30? Have you done an oil analysis?
Getting ready to do my first oil change at 1k, then switch to 5w-30 pending real world reasons not too?
I have been running napa synthetic 5W30 since 5k miles, 20k ago.. Toyota’s European oil spec for the T24A-FTS is 5W30. Since the engine parts are the same, and the turbo charger is the same, and I don’t see Garrett Turbo chargers recommending 0W20 on their website, I surmised that my engine is going to be ok, and they Toyota would be required to disclose any North American changes in discovery if an engine failure occurred and Toyota blamed the viscosity of the oil… even though they recommended it in Europe..
I also warm my engine up for five minutes after a cold start. To each their own
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