Toyota Dealer - No clue on alignment

[izzy]

I misspoke. Toe should be zero and he wants to zero it out. But then he said camber should also be zero.. which I don’t think is good.

I mean I guess you can with the LCA cam bolt but you're not gonna destroy tires with 1 degrees positive camber. By adjusting the caster via the cam bolt you also adjust the camber, it's both at the same time not one or the other.

Toe is what does tires in, not camber, as someone who has had street cars with more than -2 degrees camber.

Why not just specifically ask for zero toe and if he doesn't want to do that find another shop lol

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[tacorancher]

I mean I guess you can with the LCA cam bolt but you're not gonna destroy tires with 1 degrees positive camber. By adjusting the caster via the cam bolt you also adjust the camber, it's both at the same time not one or the other.

Toe is what does tires in, not camber, as someone who has had street cars with more than -2 degrees camber.

Why not just specifically ask for zero toe and if he doesn't want to do that find another shop lol

So you agree it’s not the best idea to try to achieve 0 camber ? Isn’t some camber good?

 

[izzy]

So you agree it’s not the best idea to try to achieve 0 camber ? Isn’t some camber good?

Well you're probably going to have some on the trailhunter because you've got the factory lift. I wouldn't entirely doubt that Toyota specced in some positive camber for reduced steering effort with big tires, and maybe more stability offroad.

Id just start with zero toe or like that guys above

If they can hit 0.05. Might as well do zero at that point and aim for 0 cross toe.

 

[m1keaveli]

most if not all dealers know nothing about the technical aspects on this stuff

9 times out of 10 they just get your car aligned at an independent shop they work with.

 

[izzy]

most if not all dealers know nothing about the technical aspects on this stuff

9 times out of 10 they just get your car aligned at an independent shop they work with.

That's why I had my favorite independent shop do my alignment. I knew the dealer would fk it up.

 

[izzy]

Found this on reddit, what in the world is that toe spec



In comparison here is my trucks last alignment:

Which should apply to all 4Gs front end to be honest.

The spec is just completely wrong. A degree of toe?? In what world is that correct?

 

[rijc99]

This was my readings after an alignment today

All are in green so I guess I’m going to drive and see.

 

[izzy]

This was my readings after an alignment today

All are in green so I guess I’m going to drive and see.

Why a quarter of toe in instead of zero toe each? At least you have almost no cross toe..

Toe in isn't going to do your tires any favors. I guess it helps high speed stability.. big deal in a truck

 

[rijc99]

Honestly I’m not sure why the specs ask for it. They did it according to their computer. Hopefully the toe isnt going to scrub my tires much.

 

[TacoFreak]

Amazing. I don't think I have ever seen two alignment specs that agreed. How can we ever know what our trucks should be set at and why is something so basic a big mystery?

 

[Yotota]

Why a quarter of toe in instead of zero toe each? At least you have almost no cross toe..

Toe in isn't going to do your tires any favors. I guess it helps high speed stability.. big deal in a truck

Honestly I’m not sure why the specs ask for it. They did it according to their computer. Hopefully the toe isnt going to scrub my tires much.

EDIT: Apparently my brain went to trucks, and some cars are zero toe.

Amazing. I don't think I have ever seen two alignment specs that agreed. How can we ever know what our trucks should be set at and why is something so basic a big mystery?

Most shops hadn't updated their alignment computers for the new specs for the 4th Gen. And most chain alignment shops flat out suck... I can do better in my shop by hand.

But the numbers have always been available in the Factory Service Manual.

 

[TacoFreak]

But the numbers have always been available in the Factory Service Manual.

That is what I assumed and that is why I don't understand why some dealers don't seem to know the alignment specs.

 

[izzy]

No mass-produced factory vehicle has zero toe. All have some amount of toe-in to prevent wandering or rut following.

(I'm sure some supercars have weird alignment specs, but those aren't relevant in the real world)



Most shops hadn't updated their alignment computers for the new specs for the 4th Gen. And most chain alignment shops flat out suck... I can do better in my shop by hand.

But the numbers have always been available in the Factory Service Manual.

Plenty of cars have a range like "-0.12 to +0.12" for toe, which means it's up to the owner / technician. WRX/GR86 both use that number above.

A normal amount of toe out or in is like -/+0.10 not 0.90. A full degree is crazy and will be visible when looking at the wheel with the naked eye. Even half a degree is too much.

Zero toe is also fine, my truck doesn't tramline or follow ruts an abnormal amount even on grooved cement freeways.

 

[Yotota]

Plenty of cars have a range like "-0.12 to +0.12" for toe, which means it's up to the owner / technician. WRX/GR86 both use that number above.

A normal amount of toe out or in is like -/+0.10 not 0.90. A full degree is crazy and will be visible when looking at the wheel with the naked eye. Even half a degree is too much.

Zero toe is also fine, my truck doesn't tramline or follow ruts an abnormal amount even on grooved cement freeways.

Huh, I guess I'm wrong. Maybe I was thinking of trucks more than cars... It's been a long time since I've done anything on non-4wd vehicles.

I've also ran zero toe on my modded trucks and cars in the past. But in recent years I've stuck with very slight toe-in. More like 1/8" toe-in per side at the most, which is 0.44° with a 32" tire.

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