Real-Life MPG Thread - Share Your 2024+ Tacoma 4th Gen's Gas Mileage! ⛽

[Taco Ji]

285/70/17 all terrain tires on my 2025 trd off-road hybrid without the air dam. Diamondback bed cover and no other exterior mods. I’m getting 18 - 19 mpg. Currently at 6,000 miles.

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[goin2drt]

About to drop down to 14-15. Time to add the 180 lbs of sandbags to the bed for winter ;-)

 

[Cold_Taco]

First two tanks both at 24 mpg. But I was in the break-in period.

 

[Canufixit]

Are these numbers 4 the 4 bangers ???

 

[Cold_Taco]

Are these numbers 4 the 4 bangers ???

Mine is SR5 4x4.

 

[MJB4450]

Are these numbers 4 the 4 bangers ???

Since a four banger is all you can get, I'm guessing yes. And I'm averaging 27 mpg combined city/hwy with my SR5 2WD.

 

[Will721]

With temps finally dropping I'm down around 17-20mpg mixed. An observation I've made having not owned a newer Toyota like this before, is that the truck really does not like being cold. What I mean is, Toyotas programming specifically does not like the cold. With my wife's 2024 Corolla, I hardly could tell a difference from any other vehicle I've owned between temperature changes, but it's a cvt.

The transmission control with the 8spd is very aggressive toward warming the truck. It holds gears at much higher rpm until the engine coolant reaches temp. Even manual mode won't bypass it. It then seems to prevent converter lockup until either the engine oil reaches temp, or the trans temp hits a certain threshold. I can't quite determine which without a scan tool on board. But it's something I've definitely noticed that most may not due to my specific commute. I live outside town so my driveway is immediately on a highway, which turns to interstate, then back to highway over roughly 20-25 minutes.

The result of that programming is severely diminished mpg. Much more so than I've experienced in other vehicles. A drop is always normal due to air density and increased drag with thicker fluids, but not more than 2-4mpg. Once the truck is up to temp and programming returns to normal I've actually not seen much drop in mpg, 1-2 max. I'm curious why Toyota chose such extreme measures. Between the aggressive programming, shutter system, and recommendation against long idles before driving.

Typically transmissions are not sensitive enough to require this. I could understand doing it just for driver comfort up to the coolant temp set point. But why controlled lack of lockup afterwards? My assumption is it has to do with emissions testing in some way. After owning this truck there are a few things I wouldn't mind chatting with one of their engineers about.

 

[32spoke]

And a road trip, so not fair.. I drive a few times a year from the SF Bay Area to Tucson… if I am ok with drafting big rigs, I can obtain 30mpg+.. aside from where each person lives= terrain.. is one driving to save time, or desire mileage?

 

[Canufixit]

Since a four banger is all you can get, I'm guessing yes. And I'm averaging 27 mpg combined city/hwy with my SR5 2WD.

Thanks, I was not sure if the higher trims had v6's or bigger engines available.

 

[izzy]

With temps finally dropping I'm down around 17-20mpg mixed. An observation I've made having not owned a newer Toyota like this before, is that the truck really does not like being cold. What I mean is, Toyotas programming specifically does not like the cold. With my wife's 2024 Corolla, I hardly could tell a difference from any other vehicle I've owned between temperature changes, but it's a cvt.

The transmission control with the 8spd is very aggressive toward warming the truck. It holds gears at much higher rpm until the engine coolant reaches temp. Even manual mode won't bypass it. It then seems to prevent converter lockup until either the engine oil reaches temp, or the trans temp hits a certain threshold. I can't quite determine which without a scan tool on board. But it's something I've definitely noticed that most may not due to my specific commute. I live outside town so my driveway is immediately on a highway, which turns to interstate, then back to highway over roughly 20-25 minutes.

The result of that programming is severely diminished mpg. Much more so than I've experienced in other vehicles. A drop is always normal due to air density and increased drag with thicker fluids, but not more than 2-4mpg. Once the truck is up to temp and programming returns to normal I've actually not seen much drop in mpg, 1-2 max. I'm curious why Toyota chose such extreme measures. Between the aggressive programming, shutter system, and recommendation against long idles before driving.

Typically transmissions are not sensitive enough to require this. I could understand doing it just for driver comfort up to the coolant temp set point. But why controlled lack of lockup afterwards? My assumption is it has to do with emissions testing in some way. After owning this truck there are a few things I wouldn't mind chatting with one of their engineers about.

I noted this as well

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/transmission-cooler-anyone.869800/#post-30971142

I mentioned this in the other thread but the transmission seems to do a lot of slipping of the TC when it's cold. I believe this is to

A. Not substantially load the engine before the oil is hot.

B. Increase the transmission temperature quickly to operating temp.

The transmission also shifts much better when it's north of 180F. Maybe there is also less wear when the trans fluid is up to temp. So there is plenty of incentive to heat it up quickly on a cold start. It does feel a little funny to drive when it's doing it's warmup routine.

 

[Will721]

A bit more observation; we've had the first few days if single digital temperatures with consistent winds and I've been watching my guages much more carefully and experimenting. I noted these using the same drive in nearly the same driving conditions.

Basically, the truck holds high RPM until the coolant reaches temp. Typically between 2500-3000rpm. It then steps down to roughly 2000-2200rpm until the engine oil reaches temp. Converter lock up seems to be mostly disabled until trans temp is reached. I've also noticed that during the "warm up period" the truck is somehow controlling boost similar to a VGT. To my knowledge these trucks do not have a VGT, but the truck attempts to build and hold boost until the trans reaches temp as well.

Mpgs vary wildly during that time. Assuming the truck is completely warmed up in these temperatures it gets right around 22mpg. However, given no warm up time and going from dead cold the same drive nets around 16-17mpg. However, if remote start is used and allowed the full 10min run time it's 18-20mpg.

For reference; all my testing is being done using my 26-30min drive to work at right about 9*F. It's a mostly highway drive with several low speed ramps so I call it mixed. The same drive at warmer temps nets roughly 24mpg.

 

[zekesview]

2025 TRD Pro
~3,500 Miles
Tires: 315/70/17
Sherpa Roof Rack w/ two Roam 83l cases
Sherpa Bed Rack w/ GoFSR Kali tent

1st Long-ish Trip: Lancaster Ca > Bay Area (Dealership to home) ~18mpgs. Early Oct. 100% Stock

2nd Long Trip: Bay Area > Colorado Springs: ~15.9 avg. mpg. Early Nov 2025 (important to note truck had ~500 miles on it) All mods on except roof rack. Rack installed in Colorado. No change on return trip.

3rd Trip: Bay Area > Bodega Bay Ca: ~15.1 Early Dec.

City Driving: ~14.9
Always Eco Mode

 

[Will721]

2025 TRD Pro
~3,500 Miles
Tires: 315/70/17
Sherpa Roof Rack w/ two Roam 83l cases
Sherpa Bed Rack w/ GoFSR Kali tent

1st Long-ish Trip: Lancaster Ca > Bay Area (Dealership to home) ~18mpgs. Early Oct. 100% Stock

2nd Long Trip: Bay Area > Colorado Springs: ~15.9 avg. mpg. Early Nov 2025 (important to note truck had ~500 miles on it) All mods on except roof rack. Rack installed in Colorado. No change on return trip.

3rd Trip: Bay Area > Bodega Bay Ca: ~15.1 Early Dec.

City Driving: ~14.9
Always Eco Mode

Three questions out of curiosity, did you recalibrate your speedo? Are you manually verifying or using the guage? Lastly, if you didn't recalibrate the speedo, are you factoring in the difference? I'm asking because that's my end game plan for tire size/rack combo and if those are exact numbers I would expect I'll be having a set of gears on the shelf BEFORE making the swap.

 

[zekesview]

Three questions out of curiosity, did you recalibrate your speedo? Are you manually verifying or using the guage? Lastly, if you didn't recalibrate the speedo, are you factoring in the difference? I'm asking because that's my end game plan for tire size/rack combo and if those are exact numbers I would expect I'll be having a set of gears on the shelf BEFORE making the swap.

Recalibrate: No
Using the onboard telemetry/guage
Currently not refactoring anything.

Hadn’t really given it much thought but your questions peak further curiosity to dive deeper. When I’ve passed speed check signs, I’m only off by 1-2 MPH but I do still have my Garmin Tread Overland that will also give me my speed. Haven’t really dove down this rabbit hole too much.
Prior to my Tacoma I had a converted Sprinter so crap MPGs was just normal.

 

[Baltimore]

Recalibrate: No
Using the onboard telemetry/guage
Currently not refactoring anything.

Hadn’t really given it much thought but your questions peak further curiosity to dive deeper. When I’ve passed speed check signs, I’m only off by 1-2 MPH but I do still have my Garmin Tread Overland that will also give me my speed. Haven’t really dove down this rabbit hole too much.
Prior to my Tacoma I had a converted Sprinter so crap MPGs was just normal.

1-4 off on a radar speed check is very normal. the angle of the radar skews the reading. Pretty good sign your truck is correct

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