DIY Front & Rear Differential Fluid Change Guide for 2024+ Tacomas

[andrewleader]

Quick Reference
This is applicable to non-hybrids. Unknown whether hybrids use same washers/etc.

Schedule

• 15,000 miles or 18 months if "driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading"
  • Otherwise, says to just inspect every 15,000 / 18 months

Front Differential
Approx 1.6 quarts of 75W-85 oil

Bolt	Tool	Torque Specs	Crush Washer Part #
Fill Bolt	10mm hex bit	29 ft‑lbs (348 in‑lbs)	12157‑10010
Drain Bolt	10mm hex bit	48 ft‑lbs (576 in‑lbs)	90430‑24017

Rear Differential
Approx 4.2 quarts of 75W-85 oil

Bolt	Tool	Torque Specs	Crush Washer Part #
Fill Bolt	24mm socket	36 ft‑lbs (432 in‑lbs)	12157‑10010
Drain Bolt	24mm socket	36 ft‑lbs (432 in‑lbs)	12157‑10010

Crush Washer Orientation: Smooth side toward the differential housing; rounded/seamed side toward the bolt head.

Required Parts

• Gear Oil: 75W‑85 full synthetic gear oil, 6 quarts total for front + rear (with 6 qts, I still had extra left over)
  • Preferred product: Amsoil Severe Gear 75W‑85
• Crush Washers:(Toyota part #'s)
  • 3x: 12157‑10010 (2x for rear diff, and 1x for front fill bolt)
  • 1x: 90430‑24017 (front drain bolt)

Required Tools

• Torque wrench that works with the 10mm hex and 24mm socket below
• Socket wrench + extensions
• Breaker wrench that works with the 10mm hex and 24mm socket below
• 10mm hex bit(front diff)
  • These are uncommon, your standard toolset probably doesn't have this
• 24mm socket(rear diff)
  • These are uncommon, your standard toolset probably doesn't have this
• 12mm socket (skid plates)
• Oil drain pan (capacity 6 qt+)
• Rags, gloves, shop towels
• Pump optional — squeeze‑pack oils worked for me
• Tools to lower spare tire (behind rear passenger seat)

Before You Start

• Perform this on level ground.
• Warm the drivetrain with a short drive for easier draining.
• Do not remove a drain bolt until you confirm the fill bolt can be loosened.

FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
Video of front differential change:

1. Remove Skid Plates

• Using a 12mm socket, remove the 8 bolts securing the two skid plates.
  • Support the plates as you remove the final bolts—they can be awkward

2. Loosen Fill Bolt

• Using a 10mm hex bit, break loose the fill bolt first
  • Always loosen the fill bolt before draining... If it’s stuck, you’d be unable to refill the diff
  • Do not fully remove it yet

3. Drain Oil

• Place your oil pan under the differential
• Remove the 10mm hex drain bolt and drain into pan
  • Dark oil with metallic shimmer is normal for diff fluid.
  • Remove the fill bolt to help it drain completely

4. Reinstall Drain Bolt

• Clean the metal sludge off of the magnetic end of the drain bolt
• Replace the old crush washer with #90430‑24017
  • Verify no old washer is stuck on the housing
• Tighten the bolt to 48 ft‑lbs (576 in‑lbs)

5. Fill Oil

• Add ~1.6 qt of 75W‑85 oil in fill hole until the oil slightly weeps out
  • It can be difficult to reach the fill plug, but it's possible to use the 1 qt squeeze pouches (I used those and it worked okay) or you can use a pump

6. Reinstall Fill Bolt

• Replace the old crush washer with #12157‑10010
  • Verify no old washer is stuck on the housing
  • Place smooth side toward the differential housing; rounded/seamed side toward the bolt head
• Tighten the bolt to 29 ft‑lbs (348 in‑lbs)

7. Reinstall Skid Plates

• Using a 12mm socket, reinstall the 8 bolts holding on the two skid plates
  • You'll start by installing the rear skid plate first
  • Torque specs are not necessary, snug them well

REAR DIFFERENTIAL
Video of rear differential change: https://youtu.be/nmftL6F2O0g

1. Lower Spare Tire

• Remove the tool kit from behind the rear passenger seat
• Insert and rotate the tool through the rear bumper port to lower the tire fully, then slide it out

2. Loosen Fill Bolt

• Using a 24mmsocket, break loose the fill bolt first
  • The fill bolt is located high on the rear diff cover
  • Loosen it first to ensure that refill won't be a problem
  • Do not fully remove it yet

3. Drain Oil

• Place your drain pan under the differential
• Remove the 24mmdrain bolt and drain into pan
  • Expect a larger volume than the front (4+ qts)
  • Remove the fill bolt to help it drain completely

4. Reinstall Drain Bolt

• Clean the metal sludge off of the magnetic end of the drain bolt
• Replace the old crush washer with #12157‑10010
  • Verify no old washer is stuck on the housing
  • Place smooth side toward the differential housing; rounded/seamed side toward the bolt head
• Tighten the bolt to 36 ft‑lbs (432 in‑lbs)

5. Fill Oil

• Add ~4.2 qt of 75W‑85 oil in fill hole until the oil slightly weeps out
  • Fill through the upper port using squeeze packets or a pump
    • The rear diff is very easy to refill using squeeze packets
  • The correct level is reached when fluid begins to overflow the fill hole

6. Reinstall Fill Bolt

• Replace the old crush washer with #12157‑10010
  • Verify no old washer is stuck on the housing
  • Place smooth side toward the differential housing; rounded/seamed side toward the bolt head
• Tighten the bolt to 36 ft‑lbs (432 in‑lbs)

7. Reinstall Spare Tire

• Slide the tire back under, align the cable, and crank it up until fully seated
  • Verify it is centered and snug

Final Checks

• Wipe down all components and confirm no leaks.
• Dispose of old gear oil properly (O'Reilly Auto / AutoZone / etc accepts it for free)
• Test drive for several minutes, then recheck for seepage.

Notes & Tips

• If a washer seems missing, it's often stuck to the housing. Remove it gently.
• You can do the entire job without lifting the truck, but lifting improves access.
• Slight metallic fuzz on magnets is normal; chunks are not.

I've also got this guide posted on my website: 4th Gen Toyota Tacoma (2024+) Front & Rear Differential Fluid Change | Taco Tunesday

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[Wife bought my 24 TRD]

Ty for a very detailed right up on the differential oil change i just reached my 15000 mile mark and of course.The dealership told me that it is above and beyond the normal service to change the oil in the diffs. Surprise surprise, one more thing that isn't covered..

 

[LincolnSixAlpha]

Thank you I was just puling together the details for mine. I'll be changing @ 30K. Almost there. You have a TRD Off-Road as I do, so I'm guessing we have the same rear end. From what I was gathering there's a couple different rear ends on these things. Since yours is the same it's a moot question for me, but I was trying to figure those details out.

 

[VBFD Taco]

Nice write up. Thanks for helping out the 4thGen community.

 

[ramble22]

Thanks for the write up, extremely helpful especially the crush washer PNs. It looks like your truck is conventional ICE. Any chance during your research you came across hybrid specific info? I am guessing the rear diff holds more fluid since it's larger, but don't know if it shares the same plugs/washers as yours.

 

[andrewleader]

Thanks for the write up, extremely helpful especially the crush washer PNs. It looks like your truck is conventional ICE. Any chance during your research you came across hybrid specific info? I am guessing the rear diff holds more fluid since it's larger, but don't know if it shares the same plugs/washers as yours.

Good question, yeah mine is standard non-hybrid. I don't know anything about the hybrid fluid amount or crush washers. I went to the Toyota dealer to buy the crush washers, you can ask them which ones. It was $12 for all four washers, so kinda expensive, but now I know the part numbers (I couldn't find them with any of the online part diagrams).

I don't recall them asking if I had hybrid or not, so it might be the same (I'd bet it's the same, I doubt they use different ones for hybrid).

 

[lauren01]

Thanks for this detailed post. Good reminder for me to get some OEM crush washers for the diffs.

 

[Brent@ANParts]

Excellent write-up! If anyone needs some crush washers we have both of them in-stock right now:

https://www.autonationparts.com/par...referral&utm_campaign=*000108864*Forum_Tacoma

https://www.autonationparts.com/par...referral&utm_campaign=*000108864*Forum_Tacoma

 

[Amorak]

Ty for a very detailed right up on the differential oil change i just reached my 15000 mile mark and of course.The dealership told me that it is above and beyond the normal service to change the oil in the diffs. Surprise surprise, one more thing that isn't covered..

Cough cough, and lifetime, "sealed" transmission fluid. Hardly.

 

[Texas Bob]

Quick Reference
This is applicable to non-hybrids. Unknown whether hybrids use same washers/etc.

Schedule

• 15,000 miles or 18 months if "driving while towing, using a car-top carrier, or heavy vehicle loading"
  • Otherwise, says to just inspect every 15,000 / 18 months

Front Differential
Approx 1.6 quarts of 75W-85 oil

Bolt	Tool	Torque Specs	Crush Washer Part #
Fill Bolt	10mm hex bit	29 ft‑lbs (348 in‑lbs)	12157‑10010
Drain Bolt	10mm hex bit	48 ft‑lbs (576 in‑lbs)	90430‑24017

Rear Differential
Approx 4.2 quarts of 75W-85 oil

Bolt	Tool	Torque Specs	Crush Washer Part #
Fill Bolt	24mm socket	36 ft‑lbs (432 in‑lbs)	12157‑10010
Drain Bolt	24mm socket	36 ft‑lbs (432 in‑lbs)	12157‑10010

Crush Washer Orientation: Smooth side toward the differential housing; rounded/seamed side toward the bolt head.

Required Parts

• Gear Oil: 75W‑85 full synthetic gear oil, 6 quarts total for front + rear (with 6 qts, I still had extra left over)
  • Preferred product: Amsoil Severe Gear 75W‑85
• Crush Washers:(Toyota part #'s)
  • 3x: 12157‑10010 (2x for rear diff, and 1x for front fill bolt)
  • 1x: 90430‑24017 (front drain bolt)

Required Tools

• Torque wrench that works with the 10mm hex and 24mm socket below
• Socket wrench + extensions
• Breaker wrench that works with the 10mm hex and 24mm socket below
• 10mm hex bit(front diff)
  • These are uncommon, your standard toolset probably doesn't have this
• 24mm socket(rear diff)
  • These are uncommon, your standard toolset probably doesn't have this
• 12mm socket (skid plates)
• Oil drain pan (capacity 6 qt+)
• Rags, gloves, shop towels
• Pump optional — squeeze‑pack oils worked for me
• Tools to lower spare tire (behind rear passenger seat)

Before You Start

• Perform this on level ground.
• Warm the drivetrain with a short drive for easier draining.
• Do not remove a drain bolt until you confirm the fill bolt can be loosened.

FRONT DIFFERENTIAL
Video of front differential change:

1. Remove Skid Plates

• Using a 12mm socket, remove the 8 bolts securing the two skid plates.
  • Support the plates as you remove the final bolts—they can be awkward

2. Loosen Fill Bolt

• Using a 10mm hex bit, break loose the fill bolt first
  • Always loosen the fill bolt before draining... If it’s stuck, you’d be unable to refill the diff
  • Do not fully remove it yet

3. Drain Oil

• Place your oil pan under the differential
• Remove the 10mm hex drain bolt and drain into pan
  • Dark oil with metallic shimmer is normal for diff fluid.
  • Remove the fill bolt to help it drain completely

4. Reinstall Drain Bolt

• Clean the metal sludge off of the magnetic end of the drain bolt
• Replace the old crush washer with #90430‑24017
  • Verify no old washer is stuck on the housing
• Tighten the bolt to 48 ft‑lbs (576 in‑lbs)

5. Fill Oil

• Add ~1.6 qt of 75W‑85 oil in fill hole until the oil slightly weeps out
  • It can be difficult to reach the fill plug, but it's possible to use the 1 qt squeeze pouches (I used those and it worked okay) or you can use a pump

6. Reinstall Fill Bolt

• Replace the old crush washer with #12157‑10010
  • Verify no old washer is stuck on the housing
  • Place smooth side toward the differential housing; rounded/seamed side toward the bolt head
• Tighten the bolt to 29 ft‑lbs (348 in‑lbs)

7. Reinstall Skid Plates

• Using a 12mm socket, reinstall the 8 bolts holding on the two skid plates
  • You'll start by installing the rear skid plate first
  • Torque specs are not necessary, snug them well

REAR DIFFERENTIAL
Video of rear differential change: https://youtu.be/nmftL6F2O0g

1. Lower Spare Tire

• Remove the tool kit from behind the rear passenger seat
• Insert and rotate the tool through the rear bumper port to lower the tire fully, then slide it out

2. Loosen Fill Bolt

• Using a 24mmsocket, break loose the fill bolt first
  • The fill bolt is located high on the rear diff cover
  • Loosen it first to ensure that refill won't be a problem
  • Do not fully remove it yet

3. Drain Oil

• Place your drain pan under the differential
• Remove the 24mmdrain bolt and drain into pan
  • Expect a larger volume than the front (4+ qts)
  • Remove the fill bolt to help it drain completely

4. Reinstall Drain Bolt

• Clean the metal sludge off of the magnetic end of the drain bolt
• Replace the old crush washer with #12157‑10010
  • Verify no old washer is stuck on the housing
  • Place smooth side toward the differential housing; rounded/seamed side toward the bolt head
• Tighten the bolt to 36 ft‑lbs (432 in‑lbs)

5. Fill Oil

• Add ~4.2 qt of 75W‑85 oil in fill hole until the oil slightly weeps out
  • Fill through the upper port using squeeze packets or a pump
    • The rear diff is very easy to refill using squeeze packets
  • The correct level is reached when fluid begins to overflow the fill hole

6. Reinstall Fill Bolt

• Replace the old crush washer with #12157‑10010
  • Verify no old washer is stuck on the housing
  • Place smooth side toward the differential housing; rounded/seamed side toward the bolt head
• Tighten the bolt to 36 ft‑lbs (432 in‑lbs)

7. Reinstall Spare Tire

• Slide the tire back under, align the cable, and crank it up until fully seated
  • Verify it is centered and snug

Final Checks

• Wipe down all components and confirm no leaks.
• Dispose of old gear oil properly (O'Reilly Auto / AutoZone / etc accepts it for free)
• Test drive for several minutes, then recheck for seepage.

Notes & Tips

• If a washer seems missing, it's often stuck to the housing. Remove it gently.
• You can do the entire job without lifting the truck, but lifting improves access.
• Slight metallic fuzz on magnets is normal; chunks are not.

I've also got this guide posted on my website: 4th Gen Toyota Tacoma (2024+) Front & Rear Differential Fluid Change | Taco Tunesday

Thank you, Andrew, great write-up. I noticed one difference between yours and Team Oil Drop: TOD says that the crush washers should have the 'seam up' when the bolt is lying on a table with threads up, in other words OPPOSITE of what you said here. I have just removed the fill plug from my 2025 Taco front diff and its crushed washer looks to me like the seam is up. Can you check please on this and confirm what you find? Here is the TOD link (for rear diff):

 

[izzy]

Rear diff fluid was fking nasty on my truck at 15,000 miles. Front was not as bad, some 4x4 use.

The non-severe schedule intervals seem too long.

 

[lauren01]

Thank you, Andrew, great write-up. I noticed one difference between yours and Team Oil Drop: TOD says that the crush washers should have the 'seam up' when the bolt is lying on a table with threads up, in other words OPPOSITE of what you said here. I have just removed the fill plug from my 2025 Taco front diff and its crushed washer looks to me like the seam is up. Can you check please on this and confirm what you find? Here is the TOD link (for rear diff):

Here is ChatGPT’s 2c worth (see image).

 

[maxx075]

Here is ChatGPT’s 2c worth (see image).

Granted this was for the oil, but IIRC, this was the orientation mine was from factory.

 

[Texas Bob]

Here is ChatGPT’s 2c worth (see image).

Excuse me, but can anyone with professional training or access to official Toyota documentation weigh in on this? I am not an expert in AI and have used Gemini more than ChatGPT, but I wanted to see the source of the answer shown in the screenshot. To do that I gave exactly the same prompt to ChatGPT and I got the same answer regarding orientation, but with much more text and even a nice diagram "backing up" the answer. The problem is that this answer is based only on two sources. Can you guess what they are? That's right, it's this exact forum on tacoma4g.com and the tacotunesday.com already referenced above. So the answer is useless to us and even though it seems to make a lot of sense, I believe it is incorrect. We already have all the opinions and IIRC comments. Here is the link to the full ChatGPT answer I got but which I believe is wrong: https://chatgpt.com/share/699099b8-a1b4-800c-bec2-7fb1fedb0fe8

Yesterday when I picked up new crush washers at the Toyota parts dep't. I asked the guy at the counter about this. He said that the rounded/seam side goes against the differential and the flat side goes against the bolt head. I didn't probe for his qualifications so I don't claim that his answer is correct.

Likewise while searching online outside of this forum, I found people referring to other Toyota vehicles and other brands with the answer that the flat side goes against the bolt head. Again, nothing reliable. This is why I hope someone out there in tacoma4G-land reading this has access to real proof and will share it here.

 

[BLtheP]

Excuse me, but can anyone with professional training or access to official Toyota documentation weigh in on this? I am not an expert in AI and have used Gemini more than ChatGPT, but I wanted to see the source of the answer shown in the screenshot. To do that I gave exactly the same prompt to ChatGPT and I got the same answer regarding orientation, but with much more text and even a nice diagram "backing up" the answer. The problem is that this answer is based only on two sources. Can you guess what they are? That's right, it's this exact forum on tacoma4g.com and the tacotunesday.com already referenced above. So the answer is useless to us and even though it seems to make a lot of sense, I believe it is incorrect. We already have all the opinions and IIRC comments. Here is the link to the full ChatGPT answer I got but which I believe is wrong: https://chatgpt.com/share/699099b8-a1b4-800c-bec2-7fb1fedb0fe8

Yesterday when I picked up new crush washers at the Toyota parts dep't. I asked the guy at the counter about this. He said that the rounded/seam side goes against the differential and the flat side goes against the bolt head. I didn't probe for his qualifications so I don't claim that his answer is correct.

Likewise while searching online outside of this forum, I found people referring to other Toyota vehicles and other brands with the answer that the flat side goes against the bolt head. Again, nothing reliable. This is why I hope someone out there in tacoma4G-land reading this has access to real proof and will share it here.

In my experience the factory puts it with the flat side against the bolt head and rounded end to the diff.

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