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Key card not working anymore.

Tacoma25

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Was working fine not sure what changed. Replaced the battery and still no dice.
Is there a way to reconnect it to the truck?
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pjh21

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Mine also stopped working. My dealer said that they are not under the warranty. They attempted to fix it, charged me $12 for a battery replacement (which didn't fix it) and then told me I could order a new one. It would take 6-8 weeks to arrive and the cost was ridiculous (over $300).
 

gpburdell

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Mine also stopped working. My dealer said that they are not under the warranty. They attempted to fix it, charged me $12 for a battery replacement (which didn't fix it) and then told me I could order a new one. It would take 6-8 weeks to arrive and the cost was ridiculous (over $300).

I'd get a second opinion - unless it failed due to damage I'd expect all keyfobs provided with the truck to be covered under the warranty.

And from experience with using the Lexus wallet key with my 3rd gen, when the battery gets low the truck will alert to replace the battery - which is a CR2412
 
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Mine also stopped working. My dealer said that they are not under the warranty. They attempted to fix it, charged me $12 for a battery replacement (which didn't fix it) and then told me I could order a new one. It would take 6-8 weeks to arrive and the cost was ridiculous (over $300).
It's covered if under 36k miles.
 

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hoodouken

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Anyone else figure this one out? I just replaced my battery in the card and now I have to put the card to the start engine button for it to start, and now I can't lock the doors from the door handle.
 

lauren01

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Have you gone through the truck set up settings to try to reconnect to your key card?

I had to do that recently after the dealer reflashed my ECU. All of my engine control connections and customizations were wiped out. However, the multimedia customizations were mostly intact. I had to fiddle around with CarPlay again, but that was it.
 

gpburdell

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Shouldn’t need to reprogram, battery change should be seamless. Make sure new battery is good and inserted correctly. + on logo side

granted, my experience is with the Lexus card programmed to my third gen, but I’ve done a couple battery changes across nine years. Never needed anything but a good new battery
 

JoeMongo

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My keycard fob is very sensitive to voltage, and the paper thin 2412 battery seems to lose voltage quickly. My keycard fob stopped working a few weeks ago at one year of use and around 2.9 volts on the battery. I bought a "new" battery, which was showing 3.0 volts, and sometimes it would work, and most of the time it would not. I bought some actually "new" batteries, and the first one I tried had 3.3 volts, and all is good now.
 

NoSlushbox4Me

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Have you gone through the truck set up settings to try to reconnect to your key card?

I had to do that recently after the dealer reflashed my ECU. All of my engine control connections and customizations were wiped out. However, the multimedia customizations were mostly intact. I had to fiddle around with CarPlay again, but that was it.
Why did the dealer reflash your ECU?
 

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lauren01

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Why did the dealer reflash your ECU?
My truck crapped out while driving on the freeway in the rain after a couple of hours. I made a post about it in a transmission thread while waiting a few days to hear from Toyota service tech about what happened. It was diagnosed as an electrical short. Here is the code and AI translation of that code:

P21199B (Confirmed Short)

Google AI

The Toyota Tacoma error code P21199B indicates a throttle actuator control system problem, likely a "throttle body range/performance" issue. This means the engine's computer (PCM) has detected a problem with the electronic throttle control, causing the vehicle to enter "limp mode" (reduced power) for safety. Common causes include a sticking or dirty throttle body, a faulty throttle position sensor or accelerator pedal position sensor, or problems with the throttle actuator control motor or associated wiring.
 

TacoFreak

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My truck crapped out while driving on the freeway in the rain after a couple of hours. I made a post about it in a transmission thread while waiting a few days to hear from Toyota service tech about what happened. It was diagnosed as an electrical short. Here is the code and AI translation of that code:

P21199B (Confirmed Short)
But no cause was actually found, correct. I assume you are driving it and hoping at this point, which is not very comforting.
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