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tacorancher

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Well a physical plug with a Ravelco is pretty solid, it’s definitely something within direct view from dealership service techs unsure if that voids a warranty, whereas the fingerprint scanner method using a mix of either in-line kill switches with a removable relay and a smaller UI scanner that can basically look like nothing and will act like nothing unless it’s your fingerprint. I would think this Ravelco is more expensive net net but don’t quote me on this I’m pretty new to onboard electronics anti-theft setups.

I’ll be following you. I just don’t want anyone tearing apart my dashboard to install this stuff. But that may be required. I’m new to all this
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Filgr8

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How my fingerprint + 41.22 kill-switch works

Parts: 41.22 kill switch kit, fingerprint control box (DX4-A / 102D model with a latching relay).
How it works: scan your finger → fingerprint box relay latches → completes the circuit in the 41.22 kit → starter relay gets power → truck starts. Scan again → relay unlatches → circuit opens → starter relay loses power → truck won’t start.

What I replaced: the 41.22 kit comes with a small kill button. I removed the button and used the fingerprint control box in its place. The fingerprint unit has a relay that latches/unlatches when you scan a registered finger, so it behaves like a remoteable on/off button for the 41.22 kit.

Sequence when starting:

  1. Scan a registered finger.
  2. The fingerprint box’s relay latches (closes).
  3. That closed relay completes the kill-switch circuit in the 41.22 kit.
  4. The 41.22 starter relay receives power and the truck can be started.
  5. Scan again to unlatch the fingerprint relay; the kill circuit opens and the starter relay is disabled.
Why it works with the 41.22 kit: the 41.22 starter relay module doesn’t use a separate ground pin the way you might expect. Instead, the kill switch in that kit is a break in the ground path: one wire Ground from the relay goes to one terminal of the kill button, and the other terminal of the kill button goes to chassis ground. When the button (or in my case the fingerprint relay) opens the circuit, the starter relay is dead and won’t activate.
  • Plan your cable route before you start. Keep runs short and out of sight (under dash trim, behind kick panels).
  • Use black electrical tape, heat-shrink, zip ties, and split wire loom to blend wiring into factory harnesses.
 

Bravada

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Bravada

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Not saying this is how your truck was stolen, but the algorithm fed me this video last night.
 

trailhunger

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Not saying this is how your truck was stolen, but the algorithm fed me this video last night.
If you’re equipped with a kill switch or decoy/inop starter relay, truck won’t start regardless. They can CAN-BUS the bejesus out of your rig, gain access to the cab..ultimately they need to move it. The vault thief hand drill tho, very stealthy..

The $5k-$10k to sell one of these devices. That’s quite the price range 🫠 …

I have a Rockledge immobilizer apparently installed before I took delivery, the dealership wanted to activate it for $2K…fast forward to last week when I finally was able to download my digital key on the Lexus App I had trouble starting the truck, ~4-5 attempts later heard a faint countdown timer in the cab then boom the alarm triggered.

Did a dive on OpenAI apparently it thinks that some hardware preloaded on the truck is operational even though I’m not signed on to the service. Have the security stickers on the windows still.

But I thought the Tacomas already came factory with ignition immobilizer modules? part # 89784-0E140 unless this is the part thieves are defeating

Biggest question is why aren’t dealerships completely cleaned out if it’s this easy to steal a Toyota
 
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ArnoldN.

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Just finally seeing all the last of this thread. I can say that progressive only covered aftermarket parts to a small amount (I don’t recall anymore also never had to use it) but this time around I had State Farm. At first they lowballed me on the truck and the adjuster had me turn in all my receipts for my aftermarket parts. I turned in roughly 16k in receipts for aftermarket parts and they were paying out 500 bucks and I was told I couldn’t do anything about it. I spoke to her supervisor, who was a truck guy and he was like you have one of those overlanding rigs by your parts list. He then told me I need to execute the appraisal clause to get proper compensation. I hired an appraiser who negotiated with State Farm and I got an additional 2 grand for the truck and 14k for my parts. So all that is to say I will be sticking with State Farm. I still lost money and the hassle of buying things again etc. overall I was made whole. Now I have a TH. Which I bought two kill switched for and have multiple trackers I also but a lock over my OBD2 harness.
 

bc510

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Hey guys, new here. Wanted to share an idea to someone who might be interested. Anyway the first thing I did installed 41.22 relay kill switch but instead of the switch it came with I did purchased 30$ CAD fingerprint scanner with relay controll box on Aliexpress. Dont have to hide it. Works very good. So even if a thief got my keys they won't be able to start it unless replacing starter relay with original one. Fingerprint connected to constant power. It draws 50uA at idle and 150mA when active which is few seconds. Installed it not direct view but under trailer brake panel.

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IMG_4794.webp
I can not find this item anywhere. If you can help with that. That would be awesome. Everything I click the link you sent in this thread this doesn’t come up
 
 






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