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Stolen 2024 Tacoma Houston TX

tacorancher

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Well a physical plug with a Ravelco is pretty solid, it’s definitely something within direct view from dealership service techs unsure if that voids a warranty, whereas the fingerprint scanner method using a mix of either in-line kill switches with a removable relay and a smaller UI scanner that can basically look like nothing and will act like nothing unless it’s your fingerprint. I would think this Ravelco is more expensive net net but don’t quote me on this I’m pretty new to onboard electronics anti-theft setups.

I’ll be following you. I just don’t want anyone tearing apart my dashboard to install this stuff. But that may be required. I’m new to all this
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Filgr8

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How my fingerprint + 41.22 kill-switch works

Parts: 41.22 kill switch kit, fingerprint control box (DX4-A / 102D model with a latching relay).
How it works: scan your finger → fingerprint box relay latches → completes the circuit in the 41.22 kit → starter relay gets power → truck starts. Scan again → relay unlatches → circuit opens → starter relay loses power → truck won’t start.

What I replaced: the 41.22 kit comes with a small kill button. I removed the button and used the fingerprint control box in its place. The fingerprint unit has a relay that latches/unlatches when you scan a registered finger, so it behaves like a remoteable on/off button for the 41.22 kit.

Sequence when starting:

  1. Scan a registered finger.
  2. The fingerprint box’s relay latches (closes).
  3. That closed relay completes the kill-switch circuit in the 41.22 kit.
  4. The 41.22 starter relay receives power and the truck can be started.
  5. Scan again to unlatch the fingerprint relay; the kill circuit opens and the starter relay is disabled.
Why it works with the 41.22 kit: the 41.22 starter relay module doesn’t use a separate ground pin the way you might expect. Instead, the kill switch in that kit is a break in the ground path: one wire Ground from the relay goes to one terminal of the kill button, and the other terminal of the kill button goes to chassis ground. When the button (or in my case the fingerprint relay) opens the circuit, the starter relay is dead and won’t activate.
  • Plan your cable route before you start. Keep runs short and out of sight (under dash trim, behind kick panels).
  • Use black electrical tape, heat-shrink, zip ties, and split wire loom to blend wiring into factory harnesses.
 

Bravada

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Bravada

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Not saying this is how your truck was stolen, but the algorithm fed me this video last night.
 

trailhunger

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Not saying this is how your truck was stolen, but the algorithm fed me this video last night.
If you’re equipped with a kill switch or decoy/inop starter relay, truck won’t start regardless. They can CAN-BUS the bejesus out of your rig, gain access to the cab..ultimately they need to move it. The vault thief hand drill tho, very stealthy..

The $5k-$10k to sell one of these devices. That’s quite the price range 🫠 …

I have a Rockledge immobilizer apparently installed before I took delivery, the dealership wanted to activate it for $2K…fast forward to last week when I finally was able to download my digital key on the Lexus App I had trouble starting the truck, ~4-5 attempts later heard a faint countdown timer in the cab then boom the alarm triggered.

Did a dive on OpenAI apparently it thinks that some hardware preloaded on the truck is operational even though I’m not signed on to the service. Have the security stickers on the windows still.

But I thought the Tacomas already came factory with ignition immobilizer modules? part # 89784-0E140 unless this is the part thieves are defeating

Biggest question is why aren’t dealerships completely cleaned out if it’s this easy to steal a Toyota
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