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Swaybar Disconnect add-on?
- Thread starter greenno
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I give it a 0% chance that you'll get what you paid for your truck. Zero.
If your current truck is effectively new, let's say 1-2k miles, and is put 100% back to stock (including the OEM running boards)...
You'll be lucky to private party sell it for 80-85% of MSRP. So at most, ~$41.6k. Anyone else can walk into a dealer and get 10% off MSRP on a new truck just like you did, so yours will need to be noticably cheaper than that to sell.
Trade-in would be more like 70-75% of MSRP. ~$36.7k at most. If they sold you the truck at 90% of MSRP, they will need to price it less than that on the used lot and still make ~10-15% margin MINIMUM. Some dealers won't touch a trade unless that can make 20% or more.
Unless there is an advertised discount on the new truck or you already negotiated it down from MSRP, you're going to pay MSRP.
The time to negotiate a price is before putting down a deposit - all dealerships I've dealt with consider the terms of the sale locked in with the deposit. They know you are invested and set on one specific truck at this point.
If you start early by negotiating on a new truck price against your trade-in, I'd guess that you could work a deal to ~$15k cash plus your truck. Right now, I'd imagine that the sales manager wouldn't approve anything less than ~$20k cash plus your trade.
This is all assuming that you're a normal "off the street" customer without any connections with the dealership or Toyota corporate.
The only way out of this now is to find an equivalent truck elsewhere, negotiate it down, and see if your current dealership will match it. Be prepared to cancel your deposit and walk.
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My truck has 502 miles on it now.
Might drive to the dealer this afternoon to see what kind of a deal I can get on the “possibly future” truck and what they would entertain on a trade in value on mine.
I don’t want to sell my present truck and then have to get bent over at the dealer on pricing on this one. I want to see how much they will bend.
My present truck is paid for and I have the title.
I would probably try to sell on my own for a bit more $ ideally.
Paid 44.8k for mine. Maybe get 40-42k?
Thre asking 56,529 maybe pay 52?
So basically trade mine in plus 8-10k?
we will see what they say.
Might drive to the dealer this afternoon to see what kind of a deal I can get on the “possibly future” truck and what they would entertain on a trade in value on mine.
I don’t want to sell my present truck and then have to get bent over at the dealer on pricing on this one. I want to see how much they will bend.
My present truck is paid for and I have the title.
I would probably try to sell on my own for a bit more $ ideally.
Paid 44.8k for mine. Maybe get 40-42k?
Thre asking 56,529 maybe pay 52?
So basically trade mine in plus 8-10k?
we will see what they say.
As for the value of the SDM...
Have you ever driven a truck without a front swaybar? It has some benefits, but it's not a magical cure-all.
- Do you wheel your truck often enough now to frequently lift a front wheel off the ground?
- Do you drive rock trails where you feel thrown side-to-side for hours on end?
- Does your truck struggle to make technical rock climbs due to a front wheel losing traction, and ATRAC isn't enough?
Those are situations where a disconnected front sway bar can help.
Personal experience:
I've driven and wheeled a fair amount of trucks, with and without sway bars. I fabbed disconnects on my 3rd Gen 4Runner, and then never once disconnected them. I had all the parts to fab disconnects on my GX470, and left them in a box for the 8yr I had that truck. And there were more than a few times I lifted a front tire on the truck, but ATRAC pulled it right through the situation.
On my new Taco, I initially wanted SDM as a cool factor. But it was also the first compromise option to go after looking back on my experience and use case for the new truck. I don't have it and I don't need it. My truck sees snow and rough unmaintained USFS roads, and that's it.
If you do want to wheel without a sway bar, you have other options:
- Wait for mechanical disconnect end links to come onto the market. They will happen at some point.
- Fab some disconnect end links. It's easy.
- Go wheeling, and at the trailhead, just remove your OEM end links. It's 5min per side if you turn the tire all the way in either direction to gain access. Then zip tie the sway bar up as high as you can to keep it from hitting anything.
Have you ever driven a truck without a front swaybar? It has some benefits, but it's not a magical cure-all.
- Do you wheel your truck often enough now to frequently lift a front wheel off the ground?
- Do you drive rock trails where you feel thrown side-to-side for hours on end?
- Does your truck struggle to make technical rock climbs due to a front wheel losing traction, and ATRAC isn't enough?
Those are situations where a disconnected front sway bar can help.
Personal experience:
I've driven and wheeled a fair amount of trucks, with and without sway bars. I fabbed disconnects on my 3rd Gen 4Runner, and then never once disconnected them. I had all the parts to fab disconnects on my GX470, and left them in a box for the 8yr I had that truck. And there were more than a few times I lifted a front tire on the truck, but ATRAC pulled it right through the situation.
On my new Taco, I initially wanted SDM as a cool factor. But it was also the first compromise option to go after looking back on my experience and use case for the new truck. I don't have it and I don't need it. My truck sees snow and rough unmaintained USFS roads, and that's it.
If you do want to wheel without a sway bar, you have other options:
- Wait for mechanical disconnect end links to come onto the market. They will happen at some point.
- Fab some disconnect end links. It's easy.
- Go wheeling, and at the trailhead, just remove your OEM end links. It's 5min per side if you turn the tire all the way in either direction to gain access. Then zip tie the sway bar up as high as you can to keep it from hitting anything.
I truly wish you luck. If the dealer is low on used inventory, maybe they'll want your truck.
But realistically, $40-42k is private party sale value. You'll never get that on a trade-in unless you pay a lot for the new truck. The dealership has to make money on some part of the deal.
Definitely get your butt to the dealership and negotiate a deal in person ASAP. The longer your deposit sits on the new truck, the less likely it is to make and changes on the deal. Even now, the odds aren't in your favor.
I think you'll be lucky to negotiate the deal to $15k cash at this point. And again, that's putting your truck back to 100% stock as it was when you bought it (to match the window sticker - this is important). But who knows, maybe the Sales Manager is having a great day and wants to hook you up. Stranger things have happened.
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Yotota I hear ya believe me.
Disconecting the front links manually is relatively easy I agree. I had to disconnect them when I added the front coil spacers.
Do I need this feature absolutly not.
Like I mentioned earlier if I can trade mine in and throw in 8-10 k more then I might do it, other than that it doesn’t make sense.
Disconecting the front links manually is relatively easy I agree. I had to disconnect them when I added the front coil spacers.
Do I need this feature absolutly not.
Like I mentioned earlier if I can trade mine in and throw in 8-10 k more then I might do it, other than that it doesn’t make sense.
It's worth a shot, and like I said, stranger things have happened.
Get down there and see if you can get the $10k cash deal to work out. So many variables go into a dealership sale that the factors could swing your way today.
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NOW I’m over it.
Went over to the dealer that had the add for the potential truck I inquired about and here is how it shook out.
They would give me a max of 41k for my truck.
They would come down from $56,529 to $52,650
So it would be my vehicle plus $16 and some change
Told them no dice but thanks for indulging me.
On to the next thing….
Went over to the dealer that had the add for the potential truck I inquired about and here is how it shook out.
They would give me a max of 41k for my truck.
They would come down from $56,529 to $52,650
So it would be my vehicle plus $16 and some change
Told them no dice but thanks for indulging me.
On to the next thing….
That's actually pretty good on both sides of the deal. What dealership? They seem good to deal with.
And you should only be paying tax on the difference, so $11.6k plus tax(on the $11.6k)/title/license.
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That's actually a wildly good deal on their part. Only 3k less than what you paid, they'll lose money on that truck.
Meanwhile most of the offroad community just takes the sway bar off and tosses it on a shelf in their garage. I personally plan on increasing the track width on my truck in the long run. At that point I'll probably do the same. They really aren't that important to a truck unless your driving it like a car. These trucks have huge wheel wells meaning they can stay low with larger tires. They don't suffer from the "fat kid on a tight rope" issues other rigs do. The exception of course being the overland guys, all that heavy gear up top and no sway bar would probably make the truck more tippy than a wrangler.
Meanwhile most of the offroad community just takes the sway bar off and tosses it on a shelf in their garage. I personally plan on increasing the track width on my truck in the long run. At that point I'll probably do the same. They really aren't that important to a truck unless your driving it like a car. These trucks have huge wheel wells meaning they can stay low with larger tires. They don't suffer from the "fat kid on a tight rope" issues other rigs do. The exception of course being the overland guys, all that heavy gear up top and no sway bar would probably make the truck more tippy than a wrangler.
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So going by the dealer fee charges of when I bought my present vehicle a month ago here is the breakdown.
You don't pay sales tax on the difference you pay on selling price.
My truck (41k) credit and balance of $11,650
Cal state Tax 7 3/4% of $52,650 is $ 4,080
Doc Fee $ 85
Electronic registration fee $ 35
License Fee $ 291
Registration Fee $ 409
Cal Tire Fee $ 9
----------
My truck plus cash of $16,559
OR
Keep my truck and do without the extras and save the dough.
Only option I really wanted was the SDM.
Getting the Premium package would of been nice but not that important to me.
I would of gone 10-12k cash but 16.5k is a deal breaker for me.
The sales guy was really smooth to work with as far as being knowledgable on the truck and talking to his appraiser guy.
Escondido Toyota sales guy was named Ignacio he works in the used car lot across from the new car lot.
You don't pay sales tax on the difference you pay on selling price.
My truck (41k) credit and balance of $11,650
Cal state Tax 7 3/4% of $52,650 is $ 4,080
Doc Fee $ 85
Electronic registration fee $ 35
License Fee $ 291
Registration Fee $ 409
Cal Tire Fee $ 9
----------
My truck plus cash of $16,559
OR
Keep my truck and do without the extras and save the dough.
Only option I really wanted was the SDM.
Getting the Premium package would of been nice but not that important to me.
I would of gone 10-12k cash but 16.5k is a deal breaker for me.
The sales guy was really smooth to work with as far as being knowledgable on the truck and talking to his appraiser guy.
Escondido Toyota sales guy was named Ignacio he works in the used car lot across from the new car lot.
Oh crap... I didn't know that California doesn't do a sales tax reduction for trade-in vehicles. That sucks.
You were offered a great deal for the trade situation. Register it in a Montana LLC or something. LOL
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