12V battery problems 24 TrailHunter

[djevans]

Driving a 2024 Toyota Tacoma TrailHunter.. Hybrid.. First 12v Battery dead at 18 months.. Noticed it because the Ultrasonic Collision sensors started throwing codes. Now checking the replacement battery (2 weeks ago) as the Ultrasonic front sensors started throwing codes again.. Guess what, Voltage at 12.1.. My driving is short 5-15 minute trips around town with occasional longer trip maybe once every couple of weeks.. i have heard that Toyota put alternators on certain models of Tacoma starting in 2025.. Toyota engineers are rather stupid to ignore this problem and let it occur in the first place.

I have repeatedly gone back and forth with both Lexus (2026 RX350 ICE) and Toyota (2025 Tacoma Limited, also ICE) - They finally told me even a 60% charge is normal. "Their target" they say is 60 to 80 percent charge. That's so idiotic. If you have several short trips, or you bring the vehicle in at 60% and let it set for a few days, or both of those happen together, you're under 50%. I have never had to "baby sit" a battery in new vehicles. They finally got tired of me bringing it in, (in this case both Lexus dealer service and Lexus customer satisfaction group) they both told me to add a battery tender. So, I have to open the hood, measure the battery voltage, and attach the battery tender/charger at 12.3v or risk nearly immediate sulfation starting. This is constant. The monitoring and charging the battery is constant. I literally have had 4 previous Lexus' and never had to even slightly worry about the SOC. Why, WHY, not use 80 to 100%? Nearly the same result fuel economy wise and I'm out of the battery charging business on new cars that I previously trusted blindly? V35 aside, no one makes better or generally more reliable cars and trucks. My wife wouldn't even reach 60% the way she drives it. (the Lexus) She's already lost one battery before I started monitoring it . I don't want to be "on the hook" so to speak for batteries going forward. I'm debating just letting the batteries die and then keep taking it in for service. This is such an idiotic thing to do to try to get "maybe" a mile per gallon cafe'. (which I wonder about) Im so irritated...

(and "Yes, I know"...I've posted at least two other times in this thread - every couple of days I have to open that d- - - - hood)

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[shackley]

I have repeatedly gone back and forth with both Lexus (2026 RX350 ICE) and Toyota (2025 Tacoma Limited, also ICE) - They finally told me even a 60% charge is normal. "Their target" they say is 60 to 80 percent charge. That's so idiotic. If you have several short trips, or you bring the vehicle in at 60% and let it set for a few days, or both of those happen together, you're under 50%. I have never had to "baby sit" a battery in new vehicles. They finally got tired of me bringing it in, (in this case both Lexus dealer service and Lexus customer satisfaction group) they both told me to add a battery tender. So, I have to open the hood, measure the battery voltage, and attach the battery tender/charger at 12.3v or risk nearly immediate sulfation starting. This is constant. The monitoring and charging the battery is constant. I literally have had 4 previous Lexus' and never had to even slightly worry about the SOC. Why, WHY, not use 80 to 100%? Nearly the same result fuel economy wise and I'm out of the battery charging business on new cars that I previously trusted blindly? V35 aside, no one makes better or generally more reliable cars and trucks. My wife wouldn't even reach 60% the way she drives it. (the Lexus) She's already lost one battery before I started monitoring it . I don't want to be "on the hook" so to speak for batteries going forward. I'm debating just letting the batteries die and then keep taking it in for service. This is such an idiotic thing to do to try to get "maybe" a mile per gallon cafe'. (which I wonder about) Im so irritated...

(and "Yes, I know"...I've posted at least two other times in this thread - every couple of days I have to open that d- - - - hood)

Yeah, I've posted too. We have both a 23 RAV4 Prime plug-in that ate the battery in less than a year, and a 26 TH. Failed battery on the RAV, and we'll see on the TH (purchased in January).

 

[TacoFreak]

Good info, and it just confirms that we are more or less on our own with this. I work from home and my truck sits a few days every week. I check it and put on my battery maintainer when I know it has a couple of non drive days. That keeps my battery just below 12.5 volts, which is the 70-80% range. If I just drive it and treat it like a normal vehicle it usually sits at 50-60% charged or lower.

I don't like it, but this keeps it alive and I doubt that I will ever buy another Toyota hybrid. My wife's Lexus battery electric SUV is the same way and I usually have my maintainer on one vehicle or the other, which is really lame for two almost new Toyota products which cost over $120k.

 

[Porwal22]

Unfortunately batteries are one of those products all manufacturers skimp on, to lower vehicle manufacturing costs.
As someone that has been turning wrenches for 39 years, I’ve replaced tons of batteries, OEM, cheap & high end. Batteries in newer vehicles are not the same quality installed in older vehicles of years ago. The last quality OEM, factory installed battery I saw, was in a 2008 Tacoma (SR5). It was a Panasonic, manufactured in Japan. Lasted 8 years. Incredible battery, wish they were available in the US.
With hybrid vehicles (not just Toyota), batteries are subjected to severe use, almost abuse. Much more than a gas engine vehicle.
People love to modify their vehicles, but when talking to most customers, a large amount of the customers I have, usually say the same thing - “when the battery dies, I’ll just get a new one”. If you’re close to home, that’s great. If you’re overlanding in the middle of nowhere, or use your vehicle for traveling to remote areas, suddenly battery reliability takes on a whole new meaning.
The batteries in most Toyotas are made by Clarios (Mexico). While they do work, they are not going to last more than a year or two in a hybrid vehicle. If it did I would be surprised.
That brings us to aftermarket batteries. There are tons of ‘em. Some people love Optima (Clarios -Mexico), yet others use Interstate (Clarios), some use Auto Zone Duralast Gold (Clarios & East Penn). There is XS Power (US private manufacturer), as well as Odyssey (USA, UK & France - private manufacturer).
I’ve been repairing hybrids & electric only vehicles (including hybrid & electric buses) for over 25 years, and the same battery manufacturers keep coming up. Odyssey, Optima, and XS Power.
They are all expensive, but you get what you pay for.
By right, you shouldn’t have to modify a stock vehicle to accommodate an aftermarket battery, or change the ECM charging algorithm. But then again, you can always improve just about anything…

 

[TFOUTS]

I plan to go Optima in my 26 TH as well. I keep it charged when it sits more than a day. I'm not sure, though, that the Optima will last much longer, but geez does Toyota buy the cheapest batteries they can find like their tires? I'm a geologist, I don't want to get stranded in the middle of nowhere...

In my case I have a 2024 TrailHunter, which has NO alternator. Its interesting that Toyota put alternators back in 2025 +. All hybrids have to be driven to keep the "batteries" charged, especially in cold weather. Not a problem here in Florida. At the dealers they just become bricks and have to be push back into the service areas and charged back up. It's like all the electric school busses up in the Northeast, they are worthless in cold weather. I'm going to put the solar panel on and run extra lights and stuff without the engine running anyway. I will never have this problem again.

 

[lauren01]

I have repeatedly gone back and forth with both Lexus (2026 RX350 ICE) and Toyota (2025 Tacoma Limited, also ICE) - They finally told me even a 60% charge is normal. "Their target" they say is 60 to 80 percent charge. That's so idiotic. If you have several short trips, or you bring the vehicle in at 60% and let it set for a few days, or both of those happen together, you're under 50%. I have never had to "baby sit" a battery in new vehicles. They finally got tired of me bringing it in, (in this case both Lexus dealer service and Lexus customer satisfaction group) they both told me to add a battery tender. So, I have to open the hood, measure the battery voltage, and attach the battery tender/charger at 12.3v or risk nearly immediate sulfation starting. This is constant. The monitoring and charging the battery is constant. I literally have had 4 previous Lexus' and never had to even slightly worry about the SOC. Why, WHY, not use 80 to 100%? Nearly the same result fuel economy wise and I'm out of the battery charging business on new cars that I previously trusted blindly? V35 aside, no one makes better or generally more reliable cars and trucks. My wife wouldn't even reach 60% the way she drives it. (the Lexus) She's already lost one battery before I started monitoring it . I don't want to be "on the hook" so to speak for batteries going forward. I'm debating just letting the batteries die and then keep taking it in for service. This is such an idiotic thing to do to try to get "maybe" a mile per gallon cafe'. (which I wonder about) Im so irritated...

(and "Yes, I know"...I've posted at least two other times in this thread - every couple of days I have to open that d- - - - hood)

I’m under the hood a lot, checking for rodents, cleaning, maintenance…hood struts are one of the best lil mods to my truck. Mabett is selling cheaper ones these days. Mine are a year old and continue to work great. This upgraded set cost about $100.

Redline Tuning Hood QuickLIFT Plus For Tacoma (2024-Current)

 

[lauren01]

Update on my post in this thread about the Optima battery: We had to return the DH7 battery to 4WP to swap to the slightly less beefy DH6 model because of physical fitment. Price at the local 4WP was the same for either model. Walmart also sources from three resellers or you can order directly from Optima. I was glad I bought locally because returning the DH7 was easy.

Even though Optima’s website indicates that either the Yellowtop DH7 or DH6 will fit, the DH7 is too long by about an inch to fit the battery locking bracket at the bottom of the tray in my hybrid (placed under the back seat).

Pics: last time I had to recharge my dead OEM battery; DH6 batteries and specs.

We tested the DH6 simply by taking that HipCamp trip I previously mentioned, 3 hours away to the Lockwood and Paso Robles areas this past week. Had a great time and I didn’t feel battery anxiety. We continue to carry jump boxes in all our vehicles - always a good practice.

 

[TacoFreak]

Thanks for that info @lauren01! When my truck finally kills my 12 volt battery I plan to get an Optima and now I know which one fits. I've driven nothing but Toyota products for years, but I will have to shop other carmakers to see if any of them care about keeping your storage battery charged, and maybe give them a try.

 

[Leucosia]

Update on my post in this thread about the Optima battery: We had to return the DH7 battery to 4WP to swap to the slightly less beefy DH6 model because of physical fitment.

Thanks, was considering getting an aftermarket battery when my truck dropped out of warranty given all the horror stories, and was trying to to figure out what battery would actually fit. Like you, I carry a jumpbox, noco gbx45, with me, as a precaution and because i rather carry that than jumper cables. Should probably check the charge on my jump box, lol.

 

[TFOUTS]

Update on my post in this thread about the Optima battery: We had to return the DH7 battery to 4WP to swap to the slightly less beefy DH6 model because of physical fitment. Price at the local 4WP was the same for either model. Walmart also sources from three resellers or you can order directly from Optima. I was glad I bought locally because returning the DH7 was easy.

Even though Optima’s website indicates that either the Yellowtop DH7 or DH6 will fit, the DH7 is too long by about an inch to fit the battery locking bracket at the bottom of the tray in my hybrid (placed under the back seat).

Pics: last time I had to recharge my dead OEM battery; DH6 batteries and specs.

We tested the DH6 simply by taking that HipCamp trip I previously mentioned, 3 hours away to the Lockwood and Paso Robles areas this past week. Had a great time and I didn’t feel battery anxiety. We continue to carry jump boxes in all our vehicles - always a good practice.

You are correct about the H6 versus the H7 size. I questioned the service tech Saturday about that, and he said the 7 is too big, but I was wanting him to put in the Toyota battery as H7. Toyota website displays the seven as too big. Since my truck was in the shop, and I could not bring them the optima battery, I had no choice but get the H6 size. If or when this new one goes out, an Optima H6 deep cycle goes in, and I will already have the solar panel to keep it going.

 

[TacoFreak]

If or when this new one goes out, an Optima H6 deep cycle goes in, and I will already have the solar panel to keep it going.

I bet that solar panel will fix your problem, but the deep cycle battery gives me a sense of security and I carry a jump box just in case.

 

[lauren01]

Thanks, was considering getting an aftermarket battery when my truck dropped out of warranty given all the horror stories, and was trying to to figure out what battery would actually fit. Like you, I carry a jumpbox, noco gbx45, with me, as a precaution and because i rather carry that than jumper cables. Should probably check the charge on my jump box, lol.

For sure, check it, then reco, put on your calendar a recurring event or reminder.

 

[lauren01]

@TacoFreak glad to help

For your wife’s vehicle, if you want to think about putting in an AGM, this is what we put in my wife’s ‘24 Subaru with constantly weak and dead OEM battery. Her battery was 2 1/2 years old. We replaced with an Interstate AGM from CostCo (see pic). Cost $180 to $200 less than an Optima DH5, which would fit. The Optima is beefier but we don’t need 20 more CCA for that much difference.

 

[TacoFreak]

@TacoFreak glad to help

For your wife’s vehicle, if you want to think about putting in an AGM, this is what we put in my wife’s ‘24 Subaru with constantly weak and dead OEM battery. Her battery was 2 1/2 years old. We replaced with an Interstate AGM from CostCo (see pic). Cost $180 to $200 less than an Optima DH5, which would fit. The Optima is beefier but we don’t need 20 more CCA for that much difference.

Thanks, that is helpful and my wife loves to save money.

She had an Infiniti SUV that killed its batteries on a regular basis and after it was out of warranty I put in an Optima red top. We had that car for years longer and it was fine. We bought a jump pack for it, but after the Optima was installed we never needed it again. My 2011 Tundra overcharged its battery and I was constantly cleaning battery acid up and eventually it ate the tie down strap. I put a yellow top Optima in it and problem solved. I quickly became a big Optima fan, even though the cost is crazy.

 

[TFOUTS]

I bet that solar panel will fix your problem, but the deep cycle battery gives me a sense of security and I carry a jump box just in case.

I also carry a jump box, but that battery was so dead dead, it wasn’t reviving. At least it wasn’t reviving with my Zeus pro. Going to carry a beefier jump box, but will have to keep it in one of the Roam boxes on the roof rack.

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