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Brings up another question since the Tacoma has a weaker oil ring and is showing fuel dilution would a heavier oil help? An oil analysis would show?
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Yeah good question. I’m thinking that 0-20 sacrifices protection especially when diluted. So I’m thinking a 5-30 would provide better protection even with some fuel dilution. So wondering if anyone has switched and if they have an oil analysis to verify??
What I foresee happening (guessing, I don’t know for sure) is that 5W-30 would help seal the rings a bit tighter which could help to slow/prevent the fuel dilution to begin with and from there, what oil dilution still occurs would be diluting a stronger oil to start with. Aka some dilution may eventually get it down to 0W-20 level, whereas if you started with 0W-20 it may become dangerously thinned out more quickly. So I think it’s some of what you said but also if the ring sealing theory is correct, then you’d be even better off due to preventing the fuel dilution or slowing it vs what it would have been.

Just my assumption. I have seen a concerning number of people talk about fuel dilution in the first couple years. Not sure if it’ll be a real problem on this engine or not. I barely ever look at oil level on any of my recent vehicles. I probably should.
 

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Eventually the motor oil geek will run testing of different things in his truck and will actually document it for the rest of us, but I bet it’ll be years before we learn anything from that.
 

izzy

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Brings up another question since the Tacoma has a weaker oil ring and is showing fuel dilution would a heavier oil help? An oil analysis would show?
Thicker oil would maintain a viscosity that protects the engine better despite dilution more than a thinner oil.

5% diluted 10w30 = ur probably ok
5% diluted 0w20 = probably not ok

I have not noticed dilution but we don't get real weather here haha. Seems to be an issue with cold oil temps during freeway drives for those that experience it.
 
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If he would have started with some real numbers, but he didn’t. Click bait
 

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I have not noticed dilution but we don't get real weather here haha. Seems to be an issue with cold oil temps during freeway drives for those that experience it.
Some are using their dipstick to decide if there getting fuel into their oil. I can’t ever hardly see the oil level on the dipstick with any accuracy. I’ll do an oil analysis when I hit 6k miles
 

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You should just run some 5-30 and let us know how it goes.
 

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Not going to void the warranty, but where I live, 5w-30 would be what I’d run if I had a choice.

im just gunna do my normal 3k oil change.

oil testing I’ve seen on this suggests 5k is the max. Planning on 3k gives me a buffer. Going to do the first change at 1k.
 

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Who's using 5w-30. Lots agree that 0-20 is for CAFE standards or EPA BS. I believe in 0-20 as much as I believe in 10k oil changes.

Any of you guys running 5w-30? Have you done an oil analysis?
Getting ready to do my first oil change at 1k, then switch to 5w-30 pending real world reasons not too?
Personally, I would stick with the oil grade recommended by the manufacturer. The most obvious reason is warranty compliance, but beyond that, it simply makes sense to trust the engineers who designed the engine.


Toyota would not recommend an oil that causes premature wear. If that were the case, they would face increased warranty claims and higher costs during the coverage period. Their specifications are carefully engineered to balance protection, efficiency, longevity, and performance.


Thinner oils are often specified because they improve fuel economy, especially in modern engines built with tighter tolerances. The impact on wear has already been factored into the engineering and durability testing process.


In short, I would follow the manufacturer’s recommendation and avoid overthinking it. The engineers have already done the thinking when they designed the engine.
 

CAMTuning

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If you watch the video it does a good job of explaining
I watched it- I like that guy. He makes some great points about oil change practices and oil quality in other regions.
I've spent a lot of years building and racing 4 cylinder engines, and we always adjust the oil weight based on what we set the bearing clearances to, and monitor oil pressure at hot idle and under load. I'm curious what the rod and main bearing clearances are on these engines but I'm certain they are really tight.
 

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I love a car care nut video as much as the next guy, but the oil viscosity video is really meant as a basics/intro. Engineering Explained did a good video explaining oil viscosities during the GM 6.2L mess:



Great explanation of Stribeck curves
(that I vaguely remember from engineering school).

2024 Tacoma 5w-30 IMG_6408


Long video short, engine bearing clearances, operating speeds, and oil viscosities are engineered to put you at the optimum point on the friction curve. This gets both the best fuel economy and the least bearing wear. Changing the Hersey number (by, for example, changing the oil viscosity) moves your position on the friction curve out of the “optimal zone” it was engineered for. Moving further right into the hydrodynamic zone sounds like you would be improving engine life, but you would actually be slightly increasing the friction coefficient. That generate more heat, the enemy of engine longevity.

In GM’s case, they recommended changing the oil viscosity because the parts GM’s suppliers machined didn’t actually match what the engineers designed, putting the engines further left on the curve into the mixed zone.

I’ll stick to Toyota’s recommendation for viscosity. I’m still not gonna run the oil to the recommended 10k interval. Changing it at 5 (or sooner) risks nothing but a few dollars and some time in the garage.
 

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People are against 0W-20 because it comes at a time in the car world where literally every design decision made weighs fuel economy as part of the decision. It is very clear that the manufacturers are up against it with the EPA requirements and they have to do all sorts of things to comply. There is no reason to even begin to trust that the owner’s manual recommended viscosity is actually what’s best for the owner. It is all about what complies best for EPA regulations.
You're absolutely spot on with all of your comments in my opinion. The EPA was looming over the car manufacturers for years tightening requirements as time went on, and here we are with low tension oil rings, direct fuel injection (walnut blasting anyone?), and oil about as thin as water, among so many other things such as the recent announcement from Toyota regarding the redesign of the Tundra 3.4 engine for 2027. Read be between the lines with that, for years Toyota has released this truck with an engine incapable of living the "every day life" with American's who like their trucks. After five years of hiding behind "engine debris", they now release stats of this update. You and I both know damn well that all of these issues that contributed to the failure of that engine for the 2022-2026 engine year was due to the manufacturer bowing to the will of the EPA to meet tighter and tighter restrictions on the testing cycles.

It's not just Toyota was under the boot heel of the EPA, All of them, which is why most of the vehicles manufactured today are just disposable, and not meant to run the distance of those out of the 90's or early 2000's. Our society today, and Toyota confirmed that with details around the update of the 3.4 for the Tundra. GM is still keeping its mouth shut on the 6.2 so it can make its profits. I have no real hope for quality vehicles moving forward in time.
 

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If we were driving a ford/dodge/chevy I’d say sure. The tolerances on these motors are RAZOR thin, adding not only a heavier weight, but a lower viscosity is just asking for trouble. You have a motor with a forged bottom end from the factory, direct and port injection, and a giant cooling jacket. The motor is the LAST thing on my mind when it comes to longevity. Honestly they may have built the motor up too much and that’s why the transmissions aren’t holding up against them.
 

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I have watched a number of videos from Lake Speed, the Motor Oil Geek and feel that he is an authoritative source for all things related to friction and lubrication.
0W-8 Motor Oil: Too THIN to Trust? Let's Find Out!
Here is one of his older videos as a sample. I have just changed my oil at 1825 miles and sent in a sample for analysis...will do another at 5K when the dealer does the first service.
I like the Car Care Nut videos but find that his guide to what's right is anything that Toyota does, without question.
 

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Sometimes, I find the Motor Oil Geek a struggle to watch, but he says it's about shear stability, not so much about viscosity. He adds that 5w-30 is twice as likely to shear out of grade as 0w-20 oils.

Of note, he bought a 4th-gen Taco, and at his first oil change, he used 0w-20.

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