Trying out 5w-30 engine oil

[GSPHerder]

Autozone is showing Penzoil PUP 5qrts for $41 right now, Amsoil $90 for 5qrts before shipping, Redline $95 for 5 before shipping.

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[Sagebrush]

Redline $95 for 5 before shipping.

Yeah... fun. I ordered two jugs of Valvoline Restore and Protect last week. Fortunately, they're still $35 a jug.

Here's another take on the thought that thicker oil is mo-better.

In summary, he suggests using the manufacturer's recommended oil weight, changing it more often, and using quality oil. Not to mention his statement: "you're technically voiding your warranty."

 

[IDontWorkForTheWaterCo]

Yeah... fun. I ordered two jugs of Valvoline Restore and Protect last week. Fortunately, they're still $35 a jug.

Here's another take on the thought that thicker oil is mo-better.

In summary, he suggests using the manufacturer's recommended oil weight, changing it more often, and using quality oil. Not to mention his statement: "you're technically voiding your warranty."

He's an awesome technician. But doesn't know much about oil viscosities. He put out a couple of oil videos and got absolutely hammered. He's been quiet on the subject for awhile now.

 

[xelitetaco]

Swapped to 5w-30 at 15k miles and it feels much better. You can hear the engine sounding slightly quieter. Changed oil at 5k and 10k with 0w-20.

 

[Will721]

I believe I brought it up before, but heck I love a good argument so I'll bring it up again. Large companies with diverse fleets tend to not follow oem guidelines. For example, Ive seen several fleets run 15w-40 in literally every engine they have. Including the company I work for. Whether thats brand new work trucks, old construction equipment, forklifts, generators, gas, diesel, and propane. 15w-40 is what is used in every piece of machinery. Equipment that is exposed to extreme heat, thousands of hours, and operators paid by the hour who love their down time.

My personal rig will get oem fluids till the warranty is up. After that it will get universal synthetic fluids. Only because I won't give the manufacturer a reason, should a problem actually arise.

 

[ColoradoBoo]

I'm sticking with the 0W-20 but not happy with the oil prices....I paid $48 (after taxes) for a 5-qt jug of Mobile One 0W-20 for my Tundra's oil change today. (Glad I had another jug in the garage...she takes 7.9 qts in that bulletproof V-8.)

Instead of messing with oil viscosity, I'm just going to change the oil in the new Tacoma every 6-months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first. (Like I have my Tundra for the past 12-years.)

 

[IDontWorkForTheWaterCo]

I'm sticking with the 0W-20 but not happy with the oil prices....I paid $48 (after taxes) for a 5-qt jug of Mobile One 0W-20 for my Tundra's oil change today. (Glad I had another jug in the garage...she takes 7.9 qts in that bulletproof V-8.)

Instead of messing with oil viscosity, I'm just going to change the oil in the new Tacoma every 6-months or 3,000 miles, whichever comes first. (Like I have my Tundra for the past 12-years.)

If the geopolitical environment doesn't change dramatically in the MiddleEast, Group III oils will continue to go up in price.

 

[IDontWorkForTheWaterCo]

Just for some unsolicited information about viscosity that might help some understand better. Toyota's VVT-i system is not very sensitive. It can't be in order to operate. 0w20 during a cold start is considerably more viscous (thicker) than a 5w30 is at operating temperature. Yet, no harm is inflicted on our engines during that first 30 minutes of driving using 0w20. If an oil can be pumped, it flows. Gravity tests are meaningless. It's about pumpability. With the proper winter (W) rating, based on temperatures the vehicle will be exposed to, oil will pump, thus flow.

The cold flow characteristics between 0w and 5w are practically negligible until temperatures reach extreme levels, generally lower than -25°F. Above that, there are actually times where a 5w can be less viscous than a 0w depending on the temperature and formulation.

As for viscosity? A particular viscosity is not some specific dot on a line, but rather a spectrum. Viscosity is measured using something called Kinematic Viscosity 100, shortened to KV100. It measures an oils viscosity at 100°C (212°F). A viscosity number is assigned to an oil based on it's score.

Each viscosity as a range not a specific number. For example, 0w20 has a KV100 range of 6.9 to 9.3. 5w30 has a range of 9.3 to 12.5. So a "heavy" 0w20 and a "light" 5w30 practically touch, nearly overlapping at the end and beginning of their KV100 ranges.

Depending on ambient air temperature and/or engine temperature, 0w20 and 5w30 can be more or less viscous than the other one at any given point.

In addition to that, the overall viscosity difference between 0w20 and 5w30 isn't as great as people think it is.

Your engine doesn't know the difference. It simply pumps oil and varies the pressure based on whatever it needs at that moment.

The A25 and M20 Dynamic Force engines use a mechanical drive to vary the intake cam and oil pressure to vary the exhaust cam. The engine only needs oil pressure to vary the exhaust cam, not a specific viscosity.

The T24 engine does not have a mechanically variable intake cam. Rather it has a more "old school" oil pressure driven system for both the intake and exhaust cams. And again, it only requires pressure to operate, not a specific viscosity.

Engine clearances (often mislabeled as "tolerances") have actually changed very little in the last several decades, despite the internet googly-gob. Passages are not particularly restrictive, again despite what the internet says. No passage is "too small" for oil to pass through. What has changed, are bearing widths which help bearings "float" better with LV (low viscosity) or ULV (ultra low viscosity) oils, much better oil jetting/cooling, especially on pistons, coated cylinder walls and piston coating and much better overall machining.

There are no "special U.S. only engines". There are no "special U.S. only ECUs". There are no "special U.S. only magic oil pumps". All internet BS.

Toyota "recommends" 0w20 for the T24. It does not require it. If it did, which brand would it require? Each brand of 0w20 will have a different KV100 score.

Using 5w30 vs 0w20 has 3 potential impacts. One, a very slight decrease in overall fuel economy. Generally 1% or less when moving up 1 viscosity, though it can be difficult to measure any real difference. Two, increasing what's known has High Temp/High Shear and film strength, making it potentially better suited under higher engine loads. And three, better ability to absorb fuel dilution. Even if a 30 drops out of grade due to dilution, it has more headroom before it drops below a 20 grade.

I'm not suggesting you should not use 0w20. Not at all. Your engine will be fine when it's changed timely. The T24 has a robust cooling system and keeps oil temps in check. But 5w30 can have some advantages under certain circumstances.

Sorry for the long post. I'll step off my soapbox.

 

[Slappy]

off topic
but do you guys in extreme cold states still use
" tank heaters "
that u plug into the house at night ?
moved to Cali from Alaska in the 80's
they keep the coolant warm & flowing thru the engine at night
we used battery warmers as well

 

[24tacoman]

off topic
but do you guys in extreme cold states still use
" tank heaters "
that u plug into the house at night ?
moved to Cali from Alaska in the 80's
they keep the coolant warm & flowing thru the engine at night
we used battery warmers as well

Yes, I live in northern Canada and my truck came with a block heater from the factory. An oil pan heater would help a ton as well but pose a greater fire risk than I’m willing to accept. -40C cold starts don’t mess around though

 

[IDontWorkForTheWaterCo]

Yes, I live in northern Canada and my truck came with a block heater from the factory. An oil pan heater would help a ton as well but pose a greater fire risk than I’m willing to accept. -40C cold starts don’t mess around though

Now that's actually where 0w is needed.

 

[Slappy]

Yes, I live in northern Canada and my truck came with a block heater from the factory. An oil pan heater would help a ton as well but pose a greater fire risk than I’m willing to accept. -40C cold starts don’t mess around though

yeah they go into the expansion plugs on the side of the block in the water jacket
remember it was a risk installing those as they could leak but coming from factory installed is the BEST !

 

[ColoradoBoo]

off topic
but do you guys in extreme cold states still use
" tank heaters "
that u plug into the house at night ?
moved to Cali from Alaska in the 80's
they keep the coolant warm & flowing thru the engine at night
we used battery warmers as well

Yes they do but not as much in southern Alaska like Anchorage and Junea because the north Pacific brings up warmer air. When we lived in Anchorage for five years, we only saw -20F for about a week or so every winter....normally 15-25. But when I lived a year up north, in Delta Junction, I saw almost a month of -55.
I had a company car, a piece of crap Ford Explorer, but she had installed:
-Heating blanket wrapped around the 12-volt battery
-Heating pad on the oil and transmission pan
-Heater inside of the coolant
The were connected to an outlet on the front of the vehicle with a built-in light so you knew it had power when you plugged it in.
Interesting fact, the Walmart up in Fairbank has rows of plugs in so you can connect while you are shopping and don't have to rush around before the car freezes. (And they will freeze....NOT a fun morning when you forget to plug it in and the temps drop or the outlet goes out.)

 

[Miqie]

Yes they do but not as much in southern Alaska like Anchorage and Junea because the north Pacific brings up warmer air. When we lived in Anchorage for five years, we only saw -20F for about a week or so every winter....normally 15-25. But when I lived a year up north, in Delta Junction, I saw almost a month of -55.
I had a company car, a piece of crap Ford Explorer, but she had installed:
-Heating blanket wrapped around the 12-volt battery
-Heating pad on the oil and transmission pan
-Heater inside of the coolant
The were connected to an outlet on the front of the vehicle with a built-in light so you knew it had power when you plugged it in.
Interesting fact, the Walmart up in Fairbank has rows of plugs in so you can connect while you are shopping and don't have to rush around before the car freezes. (And they will freeze....NOT a fun morning when you forget to plug it in and the temps drop or the outlet goes out.)

So, when you have all those heat features on the vehicle, do you have instant heat out of the vents when you start up in the morning?

 

[395North]

Yes they do but not as much in southern Alaska like Anchorage and Junea because the north Pacific brings up warmer air. When we lived in Anchorage for five years, we only saw -20F for about a week or so every winter....normally 15-25. But when I lived a year up north, in Delta Junction, I saw almost a month of -55.
I had a company car, a piece of crap Ford Explorer, but she had installed:
-Heating blanket wrapped around the 12-volt battery
-Heating pad on the oil and transmission pan
-Heater inside of the coolant
The were connected to an outlet on the front of the vehicle with a built-in light so you knew it had power when you plugged it in.
Interesting fact, the Walmart up in Fairbank has rows of plugs in so you can connect while you are shopping and don't have to rush around before the car freezes. (And they will freeze....NOT a fun morning when you forget to plug it in and the temps drop or the outlet goes out.)

I've been in the interior when it was about -30F. Crazy cold.

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