HOW TO: Rigid SR-L Series Lights for ARB Rear Bumper Installation

[Benny]

They are telling us any time. They said they are boxing them now.
John

My ARB bumper just arrived, sounds like mounting the lights before I install the bumper will save me some headaches!

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[BLtheP]

My ARB bumper just arrived, sounds like mounting the lights before I install the bumper will save me some headaches!

I installed my lights with the bumper already installed. It was a complete non event. A Torx driver screwdriver style works well rather than a ratchet and Torx bit.

 

[TRBO4X4]

I'm having a heck of a time figuring out the AUX switch configuration on my 2026 Trailhunter. I bought the 2025+ kit and have 2 sections of harness remaining (see pics). Either I'm slow, or almost every guide I've found has slightly different connectors. I'm getting hung up on #11 from the OPs guide. My red halo and reverse lights work great... I would just like to figure out how to wire the AUX.

Extra context: I have the jumper already plugged into the engine bay. I have AUX 2 utilized for ditch lights. Diagram in the manual shows the jumper sends AUX 3 and 4 to the back of the truck. I have the connector in sight, just not sure where to splice (or if I use one of the attached images connectors or just splice in myself) for the "short harness". TIA

 

[Rubenc87]

Did your kit look like this?

 

[TRBO4X4]

Did your kit look like this?

Wish I took a pic of the bags before but didnt. Looks somewhat similar. The gray connectors you have in the left bag are different so possibly a version change? I have an email out to SPV already as one of the lights seemed to have a manufacturing defect in the lens... so I'll see about getting more direct support from there. Thank you!

 

[Rubenc87]

I ordered mine last year and not sure if the kit has changed but this kit made everything very easy to install.

 

[SPV Parts]

I'm having a heck of a time figuring out the AUX switch configuration on my 2026 Trailhunter. I bought the 2025+ kit and have 2 sections of harness remaining (see pics). Either I'm slow, or almost every guide I've found has slightly different connectors. I'm getting hung up on #11 from the OPs guide. My red halo and reverse lights work great... I would just like to figure out how to wire the AUX.

Extra context: I have the jumper already plugged into the engine bay. I have AUX 2 utilized for ditch lights. Diagram in the manual shows the jumper sends AUX 3 and 4 to the back of the truck. I have the connector in sight, just not sure where to splice (or if I use one of the attached images connectors or just splice in myself) for the "short harness". TIA

Sorry about the delay. I overlooked this. If ever in doubt, email us at info @spvparts.com or call 317/934/6778

So it appears in 2026, with the addition of the 4th switch on some models, Toyota has moved the #1 and #2 switches to the #3 and #4 positions.
So our label 1 and 2 are switch 3 and 4 on some or all 26 models it appears at this point.
The #3 and #4 labels are apparently HOT ignition wires with no switch. Then from there, (and this is 2nd hand reported to me) they have a second connector in the engine bay now with the HIGH AMP switches 1 and 2.
So I am still in the process of verifying all of that info.
In short. This only applies to the stand alone add one engine connector. Not the Rear kit itself. If you use the default Toyota Jumper in the engine bay to patch to the rear. The same as the standard instructions. It will put your Rear lights on Aux 3 or 4 depending on if you flip flop the white or red wires in the rear connector that comes with the kit.

What we will do is come up with that additional connector for the 26 models for the Aux 1 and 2 that were moved as well.

John

 

[Rubenc87]

Good to know.

 

[TRBO4X4]

Sorry about the delay. I overlooked this. If ever in doubt, email us at info @spvparts.com or call 317/934/6778

So it appears in 2026, with the addition of the 4th switch on some models, Toyota has moved the #1 and #2 switches to the #3 and #4 positions.
So our label 1 and 2 are switch 3 and 4 on some or all 26 models it appears at this point.
The #3 and #4 labels are apparently HOT ignition wires with no switch. Then from there, (and this is 2nd hand reported to me) they have a second connector in the engine bay now with the HIGH AMP switches 1 and 2.
So I am still in the process of verifying all of that info.
In short. This only applies to the stand alone add one engine connector. Not the Rear kit itself. If you use the default Toyota Jumper in the engine bay to patch to the rear. The same as the standard instructions. It will put your Rear lights on Aux 3 or 4 depending on if you flip flop the white or red wires in the rear connector that comes with the kit.

What we will do is come up with that additional connector for the 26 models for the Aux 1 and 2 that were moved as well.

John

Thanks. If you need any pictures from a 2026 Trailhunter to help, feel free to send me a message.

 

[SPV Parts]

Thanks. If you need any pictures from a 2026 Trailhunter to help, feel free to send me a message.

Yes, that would be great!

You can email them to info @spvparts.com

 

[SPV Parts]

We just got a BUNCH of these in stock (Finally) and we have a Labor Day Sale going on Now!

Check out this post-

Labor Day Deal on Rigid SRL Tacoma ARB Bumper and other Light Kits for the Tacoma! (Lots in Stock)

 

[Evergreen Daydreams]

Sorry if this has been answered and/or this is the wrong thread for this question, but there are so many threads and so many pages about this product.

Can these be set up so that:
1. Red light is always on (unless the white light is on, obviously)
2. AND the white light only activates when the driver tells it to.

These look indispensable when off-road, but I don't want to blind the entire parking lot when I'm leaving Costco.

Thank you!

 

[Rubenc87]

All your answers are posted within the thread

 

[SPV Parts]

Sorry if this has been answered and/or this is the wrong thread for this question, but there are so many threads and so many pages about this product.

Can these be set up so that:
1. Red light is always on (unless the white light is on, obviously)
2. AND the white light only activates when the driver tells it to.

These look indispensable when off-road, but I don't want to blind the entire parking lot when I'm leaving Costco.

Thank you!

The easiest way to do that is just to get the option “to switches only” where you will put the red backlight on one switch and the white light on another switch.
if you leave the switch on for the red backlight, it should come on and off with the truck I believe, like most vehicles and then you can turn the other switch on and off when you want the white light.

However, the SRL lights have a pattern called wide spreader. Meaning they fan out wide and low. They don’t aim up into people’s windshields. So I doubt you’d have any issues.

John

 

[wolfpackwest]

Hey everyone, OP here:

I recently switched from my original 2024 Trailhunter to a 2026 Trailhunter and have been in the process of swapping all of my lighting components over to the new truck. Lo-and-behold, I hit some of the same confusing snags that many of you did with the addition of the 4th AUX switch and the new circuit amperage ratings. I'll be updating the original post to show the instructions for 2025+ Models with the 4AUX switches, as others have mentioned above that AUX3 & AUX4 go to the rear of the truck, while AUX1 & AUX2 remain up front (which is apparently different than 2025+ models with only 3 AUX switches).

But in the meantime, I just wanted to share a cool little update that I did so I could actually keep the AUX3 circuit up front in the engine bay circuit for me. I wanted to have AUX1 thru 3 remain in the engine bay, and only have AUX4 out back (since I really only need it to fire the rear SR-L lights, and don't plan to have anything else back there at the moment; I can always un-do what I've done if I choose to send AUX3 to the rear of the truck at some point).

Below are some photos of what I did; the concept remains the same - with the 2025+ 4-switch models, you'll get the jumper harness that connects between the engine bay harness and sends power to the rear of the truck. Since I only wanted to send AUX4 power to the rear, I used a de-pinning tool and de-pinned the AUX3 wire (black) from the jumper. This theoretically should allow me to use the AUX3 circuit wire up front in the engine bay still. For consistency's purpose, I also de-pinned the AUX3 wire from the rear harness as well (just precautionary), which I later found out was unnecessary - more on that below.

These are the 3 bags / 4 harnesses you should receive with your truck:

• The one on the far left is for AUX1 & AUX2 circuits, which are 40AMP and 20AMP respectively; this harness plugs-in along the core support, near the driver's headlight.

• The middle harness is for AUX3 & AUX4 circuits, which are 15AMP and 10AMP circuits respectively, meant to be used for items around the engine bay/front of the truck.

• The harnesses on the far right are the jumper harnesses for AUX3 & AUX4 but to send power to the rear of the truck; strangely, the rating on these for some reason bumps up to 20AMP & 15AMP respectively when the power is sent to the rear of the truck.

For the jumper harness/yellow instructions sheet, the harness on the left connects in the engine bay and the harness on the right connects up under the bed (similar to the 2024 model/original instructions). However, as mentioned, I wanted to retain AUX3 at the front of the truck, so I de-pinned and stripped that wire (black) from the jumper side of the engine bay harness and from the rear harness completely:

Engine bay harness / jumper connecter side (the thin white wire is an ignition power wire btw with a 5AMP rating, which I've also already successfully tapped into for my raptor lights to come on when the engine is on; the thick white/black wire is ground):

Rear harness connector side (de-pinned and electrical taped/heat shrunk back on itself); note - you don't need to do this if you're using John's new rear harness:

Rear harness wire side:

Turns out that I didn't need to do the rear harness portion at all, because John at SPV's updated kit provides you with an entirely new rear harness that plugs in under the truck and I used that instead. So ignore de-pinning the OEM toyota rear harness unless you don't plan on buying John's kit.

Then, because John's rear harness kit is labeled for the 2025+ models with only 3 AUX switches, the labels were a little off - but no big deal. I used his harness, and plugged the extension off of his SR-L light harness into the AUX2 labeled wire on the rear connector harness (normally, you'd plug the main light lead into the AUX1 wire connector). For what it's worth, if you were to use this kit as is, then AUX1 on his rear connector is actually AUX3 on the truck switches, and AUX2 on his rear connector is actually AUX4 on the truck switches. The backlight connector lead on the SR-L extension is left unplugged from anything, and the AUX1 connector lead from the rear connector is left unplugged from anything.

So now:

1. The red halo backlight on my SR-L's come on with the truck / when the tailights are on.
2. The main white light on my SR-L's come on when in reverse
3. The main white light on my SR-L's can be manually fired by the AUX4 switch when I want
4. AUX3 power was left at the front of the vehicle and I've already successfully wired those to my D-SS Pro ditch lights on the A-Pillars

So my theory was a success, and you can do the same too if you want to keep your AUX3 power up front Not pictured in a lot of this, is that I used WP Connectors like John uses on a lot of his harnesses so I could easily connect/disconnect accessories if & when I need to take things off the truck. The ditch lights and raptor lights are easily disconnected if I need to remove the front bumper, etc. Again - I'll be sure to add more clarity and additional photos to the original post, but just wanted to get an update out there.

Fun little bonus, I bought the Diode Dynamics front bumper light bracket kit and I'm playing with fabricating my own steel bracket using a press brake, to mount my Adapt Xtreme XP driving lights to the front (which will be on AUX2 somehow hopefully). I haven't cut any of the steel flat bar yet so that's what you see sticking up on the sides; it'll be trimmed down and cleaned up as I work through the project:

@SPV Parts

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